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I like that typo.

@WSAF467 If you can give us a little more detail on where you are having trouble, we may be able to help you. Otherwise we can only take a shot in the dark as to what the problem it.

See attached file. EUT-INTERNAL-PHOTOS-6131155.pdf

Get a programming cable, Down load chirp and use GM-5RH as the radio. 100xs easier then on the face of the radio. can you here traffic on the repeater? How far are you? Are you close enough to hit it with an HT? Good line of sight?

It helps if you can read Chinese too.

That video is me only removing the whip, the copper base is MNO. Looks like your photo.

I never hear the health net reports on UHF/VHF. Seems the Tapeworm Net and the Sweaty Piles Net are usually on 75m (HF CB Radio).

Try an earphone to see if that works. If it does it might be the switch in the earphone jack.

Yes, thank you.

For $29.99 you can purchase an out of warranty update! https://www.radioddity.com/collections/consumer-radios-frs-gmrs-radios/products/radioddity-gm-30

On the Radioddity website.

As it's been said, and will be said again.....if you must buy junk, buy cheap junk.

Where did you find version 2.0 SIX of the CPS? Update: my mistake: it is 2.06

Version 2.02 Radioddity CPS software opens up the DIY channels

I use version 2.06 on my GM-30. Works great. I don't know what the diffs are between 1 and 2.06 though.

Are you using the programming software or trying to just do it by hand through the keypad? If using Computer Programming Software, what CPS are you using?

I need help in programming my radio as stated above. Would like to talk to someone. I have watched the online videos and still not clear. Len Dubas

thank you for posting the tip on using the GM-30 profile software. the v1 worked for me. anyone try the v2 firmware/software? any benefits to it?

I'm running the same stubby antenna (only UHF so239 mount) on my truck znd it seems to work well enough for my needs. I wanted something that would be Los profile and inconspicuous and this works well in that roll.

Thanks, I was really hoping to find someone to ask a few questions but the search continues.

Actually, it could be the cable, since I have found that sometimes a radio will receive well UNTIL the outer part of the PL-259 connector touches the barrel of the SO-239. To test SWR, you need a device. The most common is an SWR/Wattmeter such as the very popular and relatively inexpensive one that usually goes by the name Surecom SW-102 UV. (about $60 on Amazon) It must be a meter that will work on the GMRs freqs, which are referred to as UHF. If you are not very technically inclined, then I would suggest only the first 6 or so posts in this discussion, and don't get carried away with the rest of the 2 pages! https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/7312-budget-friendly-swr-meter/ If you find the SWR is very high, that may point to a cable/mount problem. If you can borrow another antenna to test the mount, that would also help give more information. Looking more closely at your video, are you sure that is an NMO mount? It looks like your antenna is screwing into an SMA connector, like is used on the top of a hand held radio. Can you remove the entire black part (down to the black rubber washer) and still have something that looks like this mounted to the metal bracket?

Also, after a battery has been reconditioned and the resulting capacity is below 80%, I replace the battery and no longer use them. Batteries below 80% capacity just don't provide a long duty cycle between charge cycles.

See, this is what I am wondering. I don't have another antenna to test, I will need to buy one. I suspect the cable is good since the radio workers without noise or static when no antenna is present. How do I test SWR?

Lithium batteries have a great self life over NiMH and NiCAD batteries. They will keep their charge capacity nearly at full charge for a long time where as NiCAD batteries have one of the worst self discharge rate with NiMH batteries a little better than NiCAD. Also, NiCAD batteries need to be exercised and conditioned regularly or they will eventually fail with a short service life. NiMH batteries have a little better service than NiCAD but no where near as a Lithium battery. I have a couple Lithium batteries that are approx. 10 years old and they still reconditioned above 90% capacity. Also, if you put NiCAD and/or NiMH batteries on the shelf or they have been sitting on the shelf before their initial use for long periods of time, you may need to "reform" the battery in order for them to relearn their use and charge duty cycles or they will perform with short use duty cycles between charge cycles. In otherwords, you need to take care if them and make them happy or they will just be pissed off and not perform as expected. I learned this from a class that Alexander Battery or was it Multiplier, I don't remember now it was one of them, hosted at an APCO National Convention back in the 90s. Following this practice I feel has given me great longevity for the batteries whereas I have seen people not performing good maintenance were constantly replacing batteries prematurely.

It wasn't like that two years ago when I renewed my GMRS license. Which was the last time I was on it.