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I received an email when I got mine. Seems like the sort of thing that might be worth checking your spam filter/junk mail for though.

I agree it’s a great radio and it’s what I have in my truck.

My most recent license was in early 2022. I received an email notification that my license had been granted. Also, a year ago I changed the trustees for our ham club licenses and I received an immediate notification. Here’s the screenshot:

You'd think you would get some sort of piece of paper in the mail afterwards, but nothing of the sort came for me.. Just kept checking in on that broken website until it listed a call sign.

I don't think I ever got a notice mine was granted. I just kept doing the lookup on the FCC site till it showed on there.

Agreed. I have a solid state SwitchPros system, so I take power for my GMRS radio and Wilson cell booster from that, for the same reason as Randy. Each has its own switch on the panel, with the system running off a dedicated circuit breaker. Cell booster is top left.

I apologize, I spoke to soon. I'm still missing something. I'm trying to program in the following repeater in Wisconsin [ Yes, we are going walleye fishing!] Not understanding which cells I'm putting in those Input and Output tone Freqs. Here's the details for said repeater from the maps section: Eau Claire 600 Albertville, WI Frequency 462.600 MHz Output Tone 103.5 Hz Input Tone 69.3 Hz

Ok so chirp you must select cross tone for tone mode. Then You have to select what type of cross tone under cross mode. Then I put your tone or dtcs tones in the proper place.

Thank you Greg. EXACTLY my point. I'm getting pretty good at Chirp, [watched many of the YT vidz] but I too, am unable to to find that programming distinction. Grrrr

Good points all, but as I examine any chirp file on hand I only see "Tone", with no distinction between in and out (chuckle). He has a point; I don't have an answer. (Note: Not the latest version of Chirp on my end.)

If only. Ummmm.

If only someone would make a very simple to understand youtube video explaining this all in very simple terms that anyone could understand, while at the same time using very easy-to-understand hand-gestures.. Whoever could achieve that would literally become the queen of all that is GMRS!

The repeater tones are opposite of what you want programmed to your radio. For example, the INPUT tone of the repeater is the tone that the receiver is listening for to “accept” a transmission. So, you want to set the OUTPUT tone of your radio equal to this frequency. Similarly, the OUTPUT tone of the repeater is what your radio needs to be programmed to listen for to “accept” the transmissions from the repeater. So, you want to set the INPUT tone of your radio equal to this frequency. It is a bit confusing at first since they seem “backwards”, but you will get the hang of it! It helps to think of it from the “point of view” of the repeater. Hope this helps!

I agree with that comment. Lots of good info on this forum. Would recommend one that you could program to give you a chance to dive down that hole.

Doing some summer traveling and programming in some repeaters for the states we will be traveling thru. I have noticed that some repeaters will have a different INPUT tone and a different OUTPUT tone. Did the Google and YouTube thing, only to confuse myself even more. While in CHIRP, how do I program these different input and output tones? Thank you all so much. Todd

Ya but we (HAMS/GMRS) are more of a respectful type people I would imagine, plus we are to busy on the radio to look at our phones to search etc. If your that concerned, go OffRoaderX's YouTube channel and get a HamRegistry Discount.

Weird…

Interesting!

I always go direct to the Battery. Less chance of noise.

I have one, i actually prefer the Hytera for simplicity.. i paid 375 for the xtl 5000 w/ software and cable.

Not really that hard and I’m on my phone. One I pulled up had the name and address etc but you can click the link and it opens in Google Maps. Pick a blue dot and click on the direction arrow. This is exactly why I went and registered on Ham Registry through OffRoaderX YouTube channel (plus a month free I think )

It was already extremely easy.. It would be harder for me to find someone by callsign on that map that it would be to find someone by callsign on the FCC website. Your argument does not stand up to scrutiny and is therefore, invalid.

I usually go direct from the battery and use an isolation switch if needed. Old school and my old Jeeps (‘74CJ5; ‘80CJ7; ‘84 CJ8; ‘86 CJ7 and my old Willys) I have to manually turn things off so it’s easier for me etc.

Of course I realize that. Probably more that most people. Its just why keep making it even easier for those who want to find the info.