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WRVX790

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Everything posted by WRVX790

  1. ? I too was compelled to disassemble things around the house to see what was inside when I was a kid. That never really goes away, does it? Thanks, Steve, for the photo. Always interested in peeking behind the curtain.
  2. I have! and there is a great result: No more "WhiskeyRomeo". Thank you! Steve for the nudge and thank you very much, Rich for the fix. I sincerely appreciate it.
  3. I believe there are two stubby antennas offered by them. The 2.5" and then a 1.25" or something close... The same feller that bought some Wouxun KG-935G Plus has ordered two of the 2.5" Smileys. I'll try to paraphrase his report as soon as we test them. He and I know each other "in real life", and we tested our radios through a local repeater last week. [<-- link] We'll test again when he gets those Smileys.
  4. Until you get a better reply to your post, why not go0gle search "2-way radio supply near me" using your zip code? Or "Midland MXR10 for sale" which may net you another online retailer. Perhaps you find a brick-n-mortar shop within 25 miles of you that has one on the shelf... Either way good luck to you.
  5. And boy am I pleasantly surprised. First of all, about my forum username. I made a mistake, tried to contact support@gmrsdotcom or whatever the hyperlink was, asking if my username might be modified to my simple FCC GMRS Call Sign, losing the phonetic gibberish... and have received no reply and this after over one month. I remain both slightly embarrassed and sad at the same time. That said, I was, as the thread title implies, able to communicate using my KG- 935G HT, both factory Wouxun antenna and the Nagoya 771G (and where there was no discernable difference between the two after several conversations) using the Santa Monica Mountains' Saddle Peak GMRS repeater with my friend in Calabassas/Woodland Hills and his KG-935G Plus, 6 miles from the repeater. To say I am surprised, excited and completely satisfied with my purchase of this Wouxun would be an understatement. Thanks goes to N.A.R. Prods/OffroaderX for his efforts, his informative videos and his wonderfully-dry sense of humor for steering this 2-way radio user in the right direction. And to think I was about to bust out the ol' Cobra 25LTD! to use in the desert. I still can, but, why. ? ?️ ? ?️
  6. Listening on my KG-935G 5W HT to GMRS repeater "Ranchino" which is 49 miles distant- I'm backed up to the Pacific ocean, but 150' higher than the rest of the southern California coastal plane... almost line-of-sight. Sounds like a good group of guys yammering on about family, the weather and Jeeps. Perhaps once my 20W mobile is functional I might be able to reach that one from here.
  7. I mean, other than this shot in the dark: https://www.google.com/search?q=KX2+radio+and+an+AX1+antenna.&rlz=1C1RXQR_enUS932US941&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjTosHlg6f9AhVUM0QIHcnHAsUQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1219&bih=564&dpr=3.13
  8. You guys tease us! We have no idea where to look for images of such splendor! ?
  9. Boy, did I get the Error message. Several times, and using the red Wouxun cable... but when I plugged in the three-yr-0ld BTECH/Baofeng programming cable (for a couple of UV-82HPs I bought at the time*), IT WORKED just fine for modifying the layout of the KG-935G. Sure glad I had that BTECH cable! I let my buddy know to be sure to order his own programming cable 'cuz, well, mine didn't work!, see. I had most of what I originally wanted to do to this Wouxun HT (named a couple of repeater channels, entered some CTCSS and DCS tones already accomplished by way of the radio's keypad but with the cable I was able to watch and learn from yet another NotaRubicon vid and ended the session with only changing the display name of the radio. I see now from the vid I posted above how I can add the variations for DTCSS/DCS tones for different repeaters (in different territory) that share a Channel freq. That's pretty neat, as is the other 950+ spots reserved for whichever channels I'd like to monitor. Pretty neat stuff. Thanks for your help, Three Five Zee-ro. ? *HAM Technician ticket study never took, but now that my motor's been revved by my intro to GMRS w/ this great Wouxun, I can see that in the not-too-distant future I may resume my amateur radio study.
  10. The Baofeng cable will work for programming the Wouxun KG-935G/GPlus, according to this feller here on YouTube: He says so @ 1:30 I have not yet tried it, since I've never done this to a radio before I have some small trepidation and am going to use the Wouxun cable instead for the first time programming my radio. Thanks again for your suggestion, though! ? ?
  11. D'oh! I do have the KG-935G... and I have not tried to program it, because *I'm an idiot*. ???? IOW, your posted suggestion is brilliant, considering I'd misplaced my usual command of the obvious. Thank you. *thumbs up*
  12. Can the BTECH PC03 FTDI programming cable be used interchangeably with the Wouxun PC-001 cable? On the surface, the two appear to be indentical, save for the shape (and perhaps the contents) of the USB-end housing. The jacks should be identical... If I knew anything at all about PC basics, I may have had my answer. ? I have both cables, but if so, only need one. A friend is going to purchase two Wouxun KG-935G-Plus radios, and I'd like to give him the BTECH cable to use for programming his 935G-Plus. Thanks in advance for any and all replies. ?️ ?
  13. In other news... Seems I cannot leave anyone else any "Thanks", today. That's an odd way of doing business. Oh well.
  14. You're welcome. It's nice work! Good luck prying that thing from your boy's hands. The Coyote is amazing. All it needs is a little rpm, and, baby, is it built for it. The story of that engine's development is rather incredible. Link ---> https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/m5lp-1003-2011-ford-mustang-gt-50-coyote-engine/ I will measure the panel with what I have handy, and that's an analog dial caliper, if'n I can get the jaw through the hole. ? ?
  15. I did notice that. My truck has the same SiriusXM nubbin over on the curbside of the ro0f, so when your truck had a symmetrically-placed dealibob, I saw it. I never did cotton to the Sirius onslaught of mail, wanting me to sign up. The service was poor. Turns out, Ford wanted to replace that antenna to improve the experience, but I didn't want to play along. I get my music elsewhere on soma fm (via iPhone). Again, that's one hell of a radio rig you have, there.
  16. Thanks, Steve. I found a Ford pdf for my generation ('15 through '19) F150 and at the very bottom (although plenty of good info in between), there's a roof "brace" diagram. Earlier I mentioned an antenna placement halfway between that brace (above the B-pillar) and the rearmost edge of the roof, but I may just place the antenna directly aft of the rear edge of the crossbrace. Depending on the configuration of the brace itself, I could go right through the center of it although the total bore plane thickness would exceed this particular saw's design and intention. I suppose I could finish the bore depth once cut through the exterior surface (where a clean cut is more important) with a conventional, bi-metal 3/4" holesaw. Again, I won't know which way I'll go until this coming week when I can get things taken apart. ?
  17. Thanks! To describe my reaction to your photo, I have to ask: Ever try to breathe a sigh of relief while laughing happily with astonishment all at the same time? It went something like that. ? That's really something. That's the mark of a true radio enthusiast! and I find myself genuflecting in your general direction. From where I sit, your roof array, the work it took and what it all implies is fantastic. Thanks for the photo! and I'd love to see any interior arrangement of the radios involved. It's amazing, really.
  18. Superb advice, thank you. No moonroof. It's an XLT SuperCrew, very lightly optioned, but with the 5.0 twin-cam four-valve Coyote V8. I bought the truck for the engine alone. Hard to find, Certified PreOwned, at the time. I looked through 110 trucks before I found it, then raced to the stealership with a large down. Love this thing. I don't know what the lateral B-pillar to B-pillar bracing looks like but I know it's there from another install found online. Because of that bracing I had thought to place the antenna centered in all directions between the B- and C-pillars. That would give some forward-facing bias in any radiation pattern, such as your install, and which was what I had hoped to achieve if I had used that Larson third brake light plate shown in the OP. Anyhoo... Yours is a great installation! I really like your mic connection! in the console nook. That's very cool. I had thought of the flip-down sunglass compartment, but my KG-XS20G-Plus does not have a removable faceplate (like your HAM or the KG-1000G or any other decent radio) but the XS20-G is almost small enough to fit up there with some work. Maybe. I am thinking on top of the dash using BuiltRight Industries' mount, but because there's sunlight exposure there, to make an insulated shade for the radio for when I do not remove it from prying eyes (which would be often) when parked. We'll see. Pondering it all, currently. Your motorcycle rigs are outstanding! Thanks for all of the photos. It is appreciated, as is the support.
  19. Change of plans, here. After learning a bit more about what matters and what doesn't, I'm going to go through the roof of my truck, using the NMO pictured, soldered to 15' of Messi & Paoloni Hyperflex 5 .212" coaxial, with an M&P PL-259 on the radio end. I will have to dismantle the passenger side of the truck's interior to lower the headliner enough to work after creating the 3/4" bore through the roof, using a Laird X-Act hole saw. This will place the antenna in a better position to have a good ground plane and after the installation is finished it should look almost like a professional install... if I don't do a hack job, that is, and for the life of me I cannot set out to do that deliberately. I have standards! Trouble is, my skills do not often measure up to those standards... ? ?
  20. Yes, power isn't everything. The most important thing might first be an antenna placement that gives unobstructed line of sight (as high as it can be, in this case, on a vehicle) -and- with a good ground plane. Again, first things first. I already have a good NMO, but I've soldered M&P Hyperflex 5 to it, using marine-grade waterproof heatshrink afterwards, and after dilating the orifice in the NMO fitting's plastic cable cover to accept the thickness of the heatshrink over the .212" M&P cable. I would like to seal further (but don't know which substance to use) the plastic cover-to-bottom-of-NMO... but only if that were to be outside the cab of the truck, i.e. mounted using the Larson vehicle mounting plate I've pictured in another thread... As I mentioned earlier, I made the mistake of using a line loss calculator. Then I got carried away. You will please excuse the exuberance in my discovery of perhaps being able to use not only the best possible antenna placement, but also a superior cable with minimal loss! Wow... wouldn't that be neat. Again, carried away... I thank you, Steve S and especially marcspaz for explaining what really matters: a good antenna (I can use either one of two, depending on my environment: a Midland 3dB Ghost antenna or a Midland MXTA26 (which I prefer), well-positioned on the vehicle, and this would trump any minute gains in wattage. I thought I knew this already, as explained, with *proof* by Randy/OffroaderX/N.A.R. Prods in one of his amusing and informative videos. Thanks, marc, a ton... that was what I needed to hear from the get-go. Now I can go ahead and not use the external mounting plate from Larson Electronics, and go ahead with the labor-intensive procedure to mount my NMO/Hyperflex5 through the roof of my truck. I say "labor intensive" due to the dismantling of my truck's interior to simply lower the hard headliner. This will be the far-cleaner install, should result in what I hope will be a superior ground plane and with a decent antenna placed as high as is practicable. Besides, the 20-watt Wouxun KG-XS20GPlus transmits more than it's advertised wattage, anyway. Again, as demonstrated so aptly by GMRS' Greatest Living YouTube Hobo... Just trying to climb the steep learning curve and to do the best possible install that I can and within my means. Thanks again for your learned replies. They really have been helpful. Well, actually... really really helpful. ?
  21. Thanks Steve. What do you mean by "factory cable"? Yes, I know what that implies, factory-made complete with fittings and all ready to go, but which cable type? I ask, because I made the mistake of running numbers across a line loss calculator posted earlier in this thread, and the results were surprising. Assuming a 1.5 SWR, my 20W radio, 15-foot run and 462 MHz... RG-58 - 14.3 watts | LMR240 - 16.4 | LMR400 - 18.0 | Then there's "RG-8" which depending on manufacturer can vary but the Belden 9913 (10AWG solid core) on the same line loss calc - 17.9 watts So you can see the impetus to my overthinking... when I'd like to get to the antenna itself every single watt possible, where possible. Of course there's much I need to learn as you fellers are pointing out. ?
  22. Yes, marc, it is, and there are two different routes I can take with this. I know that the 400 is pretty large in o.d. for a mobile install, but! Earlier, I was thinking of not using the mount plate I show in another thread (and instead go right through the roof for a better installation and improved ground plane) I see I can use the plate for the NMO required for the "oversize" LMR400 cable because I don't think I'm going to be able to make the connection fit between the aluminum roof and the headliner. That would require a 90* deal (which would be doable with the M&P .212" coax which I've already soldered to another NMO). So, now! I can still use the mount plate, the larger, straight NMO/SO-259, then drop the LMR400 run straight down outside the truck from the third brake light/sandwiched mount plate/truck cab roof to run between the truck bed and the rear of the truck cab, then, *underneath* the cab! and then pop up into the cab near the dash where the radio will be. *ponders* This may be easier to do since it's a pickup truck rather than a car, and the coax drop would be centered, widthwise of the truck. (apologies for any confusion, but I think this would be doable). I do appreciate your help. With the NMO and the (2) PL-259 all I need now is the appropriate length of LMR400 (or whichever variant is best suited to a mobile install where no radii need be tighter than 2"... G'dang. This could be really neat. ??
  23. Well! Actually... ? And! this is a no0b talking/asking, here, so... I had purchased 15' of M&P Hyperflex 5, an M&P PL259 (will do the soldering myself) and a brass NMO mount for the antenna end for a 20W GMRS install above the headliner (the cable, not the radio) in my '16 F150... After reading this thread and most of it's links, I would rather, ACTUALLY use LMR400. Am I nuts? and where would I source the appropriately-sized PL259 and NMO? if needed. I really wish to push as many as the 20 watts from the radio as I can into the air. Thanks for any feedback.
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