rsgagnon

I have the same radio and after getting a receive issue resolved, the replacement radio is working great. I can hit many repeaters in the area and with my BTech GMRS-V1 (part 95 approved FCC ID:2AGND-GMRS-V1) I am able to validate success. When I release the mike, I hear the tail. I have used this radio to hit a repeater about 11 miles away and talk to someone in Dallas and we figured we were 40 miles apart. Funny, I could hear him on the HT with the Duckie with static, put the Luiton NA771 on the HT and he was clear. Have not keyed this to hit repeaters. Did find that with CHIRP on the B-Tech I can add repeaters and their names to the other memory positions. BTECH has successfully taken a successful HAM radio and locked it to GMRS to get the part 95. I asked midland about using CHIRP and they indicated it would not work, so manual is all there is. Sure like using software to add the data and names for local repeaters to the Btech radios.....

love this conversation, sorry to resurrect. as a good radio technician (good not great) I like to use a rule of thumb of 2.5 feet of line for every watt of output power between a radio and an antenna. This prevents finals from overloading. Additionally, there are a number of HT duplex repeater units on e-bay for less than $20. These are not FCC certified but many HAM groups carry these for disaster response. As for separation of receive and transmit antenna's too little separation will destroy the preamp on the receiver. I have tested and find my rule of thumb on the coax works. 2.5 feet for each watt of out put power. Now some Real radio technicians will have various opinions, and these are opinions from trial and spend situations destroying stuff.

UPDATE: Sent radio in (was not happy had to pay shipping). Midland replaced unit with a newer version, sighting a design issue in the original radio. The new radio does not picket fence and sounds very clear. Have built a 465 MJZ J-pole and this thing will hit repeaters on low power and is clear on the receive. when driving with the stock antenna it works well it does have a slight increase in range. thanks to all!

Programming the MXT115 is not intuitive, and when you press the up button on the mike it will pass GMRS22 then hit GMRS15 with RP (very small) Highlighted. The CTCSS codes will show a Sine wave (again small) and you have associated numbers (in the manual) the confirm or save is the scan button. hope that helps, I the same radio (2 weeks now) and even with squelch set to 1 it never breaks for noise and when a signal comes through it pops and fades, trying to get support out of midland is treacherous ground.

I think my radio is an issue. Receive pops and breaks even with Squelch at 1. So took a Btech GMRS-V1 (rubber ducky antenna) with me and listened to receive signal on it and was clear. Likely bad radio. Thanks for the reply Trying to get Midland to reply.

I am new to GMRS (as you can tell by my call sign) and my intention is to use these while on the farm in west texas. When we work the field, really remote, we will have a simplex in camp operated by me on my radio. I was expecting about 5 miles on the 15 Watt but see about 3 and from this forum, I expect some is cable loss, antenna height and just me getting educated. In DFW I would like to access a repeater but my MXT115 in my little truck seems anemic. I have the Midland kit with the 6 inch whip. What cable should I install in a vehicle to reduce loss? What SWR expectation should I have (new digital GMRS SWR meter)? I just ordered a powerwerx antenna with 4.15 DB UHF gain, hope this will be better than factory. On the base in the camp at the farm I intend to do a DPD base antenna. Last, on a base (same radio in use) what coax is recommended. (I can solder and I can set SWR, just not sure and you are the experts......