WRFP399
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Posts posted by WRFP399
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Here is good information on charging lead acid batteires.
https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-403-charging-lead-acid
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Tram 1181?
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So I live in the mountains here in Alaska. I have found that GMRS signals (UHF) do very well at moving down the deep valleys flanked by tall/steep mountains. I assumed this is reflection/refraction. I can also confirm that GMRS (UHF) signals get chewed up by heavy forest. Further to that point, there is a commercial UHF passive "repeater" on a ridge behind my home. It is just a large flat metal "billboard".
In my experience being in the mountains and away from urban areas "increases" the performance of the radio through better signal to noise ratios. Urban areas tend to drown out weaker signals but out in the back country were there is less RF noise that weak signal comes through strong.
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On 3/21/2023 at 8:37 AM, Lscott said:
Have you considered swapping out the simple PWM charge controller for a MPPT type? In theory it should allow you to capture more energy and store it in the battery. With large changes in solar radiance and panel temperatures this will make a noticeable improvement IMHO.
These controllers seem to work rather well. For about 100 watts of panel power a 10 amp controller would be right for your application.
https://sunforgellc.com/product/gv-10/
Which solar charge controller PWM-or-MPPT.pdf 2.32 MB · 2 downloads
Yes. The "Beta Version 3" is powered by a 60 watt panel (~33 volts at 2 amps) hooked up to an Epever Tracer MPPT controller rated to -40 degrees. I have two of these controllers running this winter. They seem to work fine in the Alaska winter. Downside is these MPPT circuits are louder RF wise than the PWM. I don't claim to be an expert on that but I found the controller was making RF noise when the sun was GONE and was quiet when the sun was present. I thought the opposite would be true but it wasn't. I was able to quiet it down with Mix 61 ferrites on all the outputs/inputs of the controller.
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On 3/11/2023 at 9:52 AM, gortex2 said:
That frequency is not in the GMRS or HAM bands so using it to prove a point is inaccurate.
It's a middle point to show average line loss between 462 and 467 mhz...which are the two frequencies the GMRS repeaters operate on so it is quite accurate to use.
Edit: I should have checked to see there was as page 2 to this post....I see this was addressed already.
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It snowed and I never got back up to it but it's is now the end of March and I can update on the performance.
The repeater stayed up 24/7 until around the beginning of January where low total solar hours due to reduced daylight and consistent clouds resulted a "low" battery state. The solar controller shut down the repeater when it saw a sustained voltage of 12.1 or lower. During this time we had nearly all cloudy days continuing through the start of February. The few sunny days we had the controller would turn the repeater back on after about 20 minutes of getting full sun on it's panel. We were only getting single days of sun with many days/weeks of clouds between. With the low solar hours from the high latitude a single day was only making enough power to keep the repeater running for about a day during January before the battery ran "low" again and the solar control shut the repeater back off. This would increase to about 2 or 3 days worth of power by February with the increase in the length of solar hours per day. It was good to see the solar controller doing it's job consistently protecting the battery while also consistently bringing everything back up in -20 degree weather provided it had enough sun. By late February we had 5 days of full sun in a row and significantly increased daily solar hours. The repeater has since has been up 24/7 since then. I have head multiple new GMRS members exploring it's RF footprint the past few days. Once the several feet of snow melts and the mud subsides I will try and post a reading of the data on the solar controller.
I know this post is super long but I think it contains useful data for anyone else looking to make a solar charged repeater with a small physical footprint.
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I know this is an older threat. I was using the search function to find another post and saw this. I just to add detail on the more/less power in not making more/less power out. I did a bunch of poking around inside mine and found the voltage is dropped down to about 8 volts before it goes into the radio unit itself. The RT97 is listed as needing anywhere from 12-24 volts input but due to that regulator it won't change what the radio itself sees.
In the attached image you will see this circuit board circled in orange. Power comes in on the red and black wires, the other two are data (Red Arrow). The reduced voltage leaves on the ribbon to the radio unit itself, I don't recall exactly which in the ribbon are the main power wires anymore. (Teal Arrow)
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I think by far the simplest "rugged" option would be a Vertex VX-231. While these aren't water/dust proof I have beat the snot out of mine over the last 15 years or so. I started using these radios back in the late 2000s for paintball. Rain, snow, mud, dust, getting hit with paintballs and they all stood up fine. I now use them along with Vertex EVX-531/534 radios for hiking and backcountry communication. They are cheap and work well. The receivers in them are far better than any of my Chinese radios. They are up to 16 channels but any channel slot not programmed will cause the radio to beep at you to let you know that channel is not programmed. Aftermarket batteries are still available for it, including extended run time batteries that will last up to 50 hours in stand-by. The programming cables you can get on eBay for 20 bucks do work for programming but won't for firmware upgrades. If you want the ability to upgrade firmware you need the Vertex FIF cable which is about $150. Upgrading firmware really isn't that important. I have the programming software I can send to you if you need it. I attached a screen shot showing what a single channel programming might look like.
- wayoverthere and WRWH734
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Maybe it is the terrain I am in but I have yet to find an antenna, including an authentic 771G, that makes any significant improvement over the stock antennas on my radios. From the UV-5R, UV-88, Vertex EVX-534/531 and Motorola PR400.
Are you guys seeing improvement?
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On 1/13/2023 at 10:36 PM, WRTT642 said:
Thanks for the info update. Please let me know when next one is I will try to make a point to having to get out there and jump on it.
I think I will try to connect into the 177 about mid or late February. Need the additional solar hours to recover the battery. The repeater has been popping on and off line as the battery is low. At least this year I can say it has been reliably coming back on-line. All prior years it went down and never came back up.
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Rigged up my first outdoor solar "repeater". Inside this ABS box is a SLA batter (lithium can't do cold weather charge), a small solar controller, a step down converter to get from 12 volts to 4, and a Lilygo T-Beam 1.1 without a screen.
It uses 90mA at 12 volts when transmitting and 30mA at 12 volts when sitting.
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On 11/13/2022 at 9:40 AM, WRUG861 said:
Can anyone speak to the Machine Information settings for the Retevis RT97? There are only five fields on that setup page.
- Relay Tail Delay: - SETS THE LENGTH THE TRANSMITTER STAYS ON AFTER THE RECEIVER CLOSES.
- Transit Function: - TURNS THE REPEATER FUNCTION ON OR OFF. I DON'T KNOW WHY THIS EVEN EXSISTS.
- Squelch Level: - SETS THE RECEIVER SQUELCH LEVEL LIKE ANY OTHER RADIO. I HAVE MINE SET AT 8. ANYTHING THAT OPENS THE REVEIVER BELOW THAT LEVEL IS JUST NOISE ANYWAY.
- Key Lock: - LOCKS THE CHANNEL UP/DOWN KEYS ON THE "FRONT PANEL" UNDER THE DISPLAY.
- Tail Tone Eliminate: - SENDS A REVERSE BURST WITH THE END OF THE TRANMISSION TO TELL THE RADIOS TO CLOSE THEIR SQUELCH AND PREVENTS THE STATIC BURST.
I have two of these. I added the answers inside your quote.
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It's crazy how long the Pii's have been sold out...
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It looks like the myGMRS node 177 "formalized" and separated itself from the mid-west 169 node. A fair amount of nodes and repeaters popped up in the PacNW. They hold a simple check in net every 2 weeks on Tuesdays at 6PM Alaska Time. They call for people to check in state by state including Alaska. They usually just ask for your Callsign, first name and what you are talking on (IE a handheld with 5 watts or a mobile radio with 15 watts etc). At the end they open it up to general convo but usually there is none.
I make every attempt to connect into this net using the EagleRiver 575 repeater. The last one was 11-15-2022 and the next will be 11-29-2022.Here is the audio from 11-15-2022 when there were only a few people.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19nlg_xlVQhvwjVHga7N08XYHHke9oseb/view?usp=share_link -
So. If I understand this all correctly you have two repeaters. One is made up two KG1000s and the other is an RT97. The KG repeater is not receiving the same signals that the RT97 can receive. If the antenna and feedline are the same between the two, and in the same location, than that indicates there is a problem with either the duplexer or the receiver of your KG repeater.
We can start with simple problems starting with the squelch levels of the receiver making sure they aren't set too high. Try swapping the KG's around to see if one works better than the other at receiving. If that makes no change take a look at the duplexer or take it somewhere to have it looked at to ensure it is tuned correctly. -
So I have a few devices, Lilygo T-Beam V1.1. I placed one up high and placed another one at home and drove around with another. The best I could do so far was about 3.7 miles from the car (device placed on roof) to the node up high. This is with the "Long_Fast" preset. They are also very glitchy and often require a reboot. So far they are fun to experiment with and maybe as use in a PACE communication plan but reliability is an issue so far.
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Anyone here using this system? We just started to dive into it.
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All fair points. I simply copied what Rugged did, included where the wire exits the radio.
I will say the TH-8600 works better in high RF environments than my UV5R but I have not put it side to side with my PM400/CM300 radios.
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Use silicone to secure the wires in place inside the radio to prevent rubbing. Seal up the hole at the back of the radio where the wires pass to the exterior. Attach the mini-XLR connector to the wire. White goes to pin 1, yellow goes to pin 2, red goes to pin 3, green goes to pin 4 and black goes to pin 5.
- WRUU653 and AdmiralCochrane
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Anyone know any information about the "LA Echo 1 System" repeater on 725 in Los Angeles?
in General Discussion
Posted
I am over in Long Beach for the day. I can trigger it with a TYT MV-UV390 transmitting on 467.725 with CTS of 100.0hz.