tcp2525

The best advice is to read a lot of threads in this forum and start learning what works and what doesn't. Ask a lot of questions as well. There are a lot of topics on improving range and getting the most from your installation on the net. There's so much to learn, just take it slow so you don't get overwhelmed. Again, it's all about research and not thinking any question is not worth asking. Most of all, have fun.

Agree, it's definitely less of an issue on 10/11 meters and VHF, but when you are in the UHF region, one has to put in a little more effort to optimize their installation as it not only affects transmit, it attenuates recieve. A lot of newcomers rely on us to get the most out of their gear. I feel it best to advise them how to achieve the best performance, but also give them the option to get it just good enough if they have monetary and/or technical limitations. It's all about compromise, but UHF doesn’t handle compromise without a fight. That's just my opinion.

Very nice! I have a 2013 Limited. I finally upgraded to 20" wheels from a 2023 F150 after ruining two 22" rims from Baltimore potholes. I love the 20s and wished I did it sooner.

That's my point. Why suffer with a preventable issue?

This same picture was posted in the forum a year or two back. Don't sweat it, we're all trapped in an infinite loop of off topic crap.

What make and model is your truck? I was assuming it is a newer F150, but I'm not rally sure. Mine is an older F150 with sun roof.

Good advice! I really don't think the NanoVNA is overkill, it's just an inexpensive slightly more complicated device with a small learning curve that will give the user important information to help optimize their installation. I have read on this forum that some people are extremely happy with a 2.5:1 SWR since it is only reflecting 18% of your power back. I don't want to deprive anyone of their happiness, just as long as they are really happy. At 467 MHz every little thing adds up and can decrease performance. I know I wouldn't be happy dumping power into 50' of LMR400 and an antenna reflecting 18% of my power back, that's just me. Hell, maybe I'm too anal. But, when I tune duplexers, I try to get every 1/10th db return loss back I can. Bottom line, if whatever you're doing delivers the performance you want,, just roll with it.

Very nice install. If you have a GMRS radio with a detachable face you can always use the sunglass holder, which will fold up when not in use. I put the ham radio there and the GMRS in the center counsel storage. Both are hidden when not in use.

Nice!!! The DB20 has been a real winner and a great inexpensive performer at 15w on GMRS. A 40w version would be highly welcome just as long as they don't overprice it.

The best advice one can give is to install several runs of the largest diameter conduit in the walls so you can pull wires between floors from basement to attic and everything in between. This way you will have an easy time deploying whatever you plan now and in the future. Conduit is extremely cheap and installing it while under construction is easy and painless. As for a repeater in your situation, don't expect the signal traveling very far. If you can't get the antenna at an optimal height you will be limited to a few miles. Still install the conduit, though.

Soldier is expendable, Baofeng and AK-47 is not.

I totally agree. I'm just saying for the people that want to get the most out of their GMRS installation is to do it right the first time and squeeze out every bit of performance for maximum enjoyment. As we see on the forum we have many people not getting the performance they deserve. Like you said, "close is plenty good enough" for most people.

I'm sure it's just sample variations. I've tested a bunch of meters throughout the years and find that no two meters from the same manufacture will give you the same exact reading. This even applies to Bird meters. Bottom line, one has to accept the possibility that whatever budget meter they use it might be in the ballpark or not. A cheap NanoVNA is the ultimate choice if you're looking to get the best from your installation. This is even more important on UHF.

I second that. There are really only two choices for this task, a Bird 43 meter with appropriate slug on the high end of the price scale, or a Chinese NanoVNA for about $60. I have both and highly recommend Mr. Chung's NanoVNA as I use it for all my antenna building endeavors and checking SWR. I'll even go as far as saying it's totally and utterly foolish and breaks every terrestrial and celestial bounds of human stupidity relying on these cheap meters as I've found them to be off anywhere between 10 to 20 percent off. This even applies to Daiwa meters as well. For the budget minded hobbyist that want fantastic accuracy for only a few bucks, the NanoVNA is the only choice.

Fortunately, I have a bunch of these Transco switches. Right now I have two on top of the tower to switch between vertical and horizontal antennas on 2m and 6m. A bit overkill for those two bands, but the price is right and they are reliable. I'm eventually going to do the same for GMRS, switch between a high gain vertical and a stacked set of yagis.

I only use Transco switches. No fake specs and extremely low insertion loss.

Put a fan behind it and don't worry anymore.

Super Stationmaster https://www.wiscointl.com/celwave/antennas/uhf/pd455/index.htm

I have to agree with that. My friend bought the same model Comet a day after I bought mine and his works perfectly. Sample variation sucks worse on cheap consumer goods than it does with the pro stuff.

I tried the comet CA-712EFC and it was a dud! I sadly had to send it back due it being defective. A side-by-side test against the Tram 1486 showed it failed miserably. This was a total let down as I really wanted that antenna to work. I am considering getting another when this batch is replaced with a new production run. I know I'm the only person on Earth that had a bad Comet.

Got it. I don't know how I missed that in the first place. Damn tunnel vision got me.

I think you answered my question. I definitely don't want to cut into the harness. This thing definitely has a certain degree of down tilt, which is killing performance to the south. My next question would be, do you have any recommendation for a good commercial antenna that doesn't have down tilt?

I have the same data sheet. What's the difference between "beam", which I assume is mechanical and electrical, which I am assuming is done with phasing. Did I misread the title on the data sheet? Just to add, a zero degree tilt would be optimal in this situation.

A question for all you gurus out here. I'm dealing with the antenna in the title that is up about 100' that performs perfectly in the northerly direction, but sucks going south. The hill I have to go over really isn't overly high, but high enough to attenuate an antenna with electrical down tilt. My question is do you guys have any ideas or a source of literature that can point me in the right direction? Thanks.

Kinda same strategy here. I used Ubuntu for years until they "F" it up with Unity. I then went with Manjaro, which I find really stable and reliable making it a joy to use. I do still carry a USB stick on my keyring with Ubuntu since it allows a persistent file. Oh, one thing I also like about using VMs is being able to run all that old Motorola software under Windows 97 (32-bit) that won't even install on a 64-bit platform.