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Colin927

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  1. Hello all, I recently purchased a Tait tb8100 repeater with a Taitnet Ethernet reciter with a 15 pin interface. I have looked everywhere on the web for an interface cable to use with a DKM Uri box and can't find any anywhere. I have purchased the appropriate cable and db connectors to build my own but trying to find a schematic to know which pin on the interface connects to which pin on the DMK box. Any help would be appreciated. THanks Colin A WRJZ927
  2. Thank you for the reply. There are only 2 repeaters in the system. 2 Kenwood TKR-851's. they have acted as stand alone repeaters in the area. My thought is is that if I switch them to base station mode then the won't repeat the local traffic. All the other info you talked about makes sense. I have played with the rxdelay in the software, played with tail times. Everything else is working properly except for hearing the last second or so of the last persons transmission repeater a second time. Also it seems to only happen at 1 of the repeater sites. the other site doesn't seem to be affected, at least that is what the locals are telling me. Thanks again. Colin.
  3. Hello all, Wondering if anyone out here has an answer for this, I have my links setup and the audio adjusted and they sound great but the one issue I'm having is after every key-up, after the person transmitting lets go of the key, the last second or so of audio gets repeated back into the system and everybody can hear the last couple of words said an additional time. From what I can tell the repeating is only happening at 1 repeater site. I have looked at allstar asterisk forums and have tried the 2 things I found but nothing has helped. Colin
  4. Hello All, I have 2 nodes that I am trying to connect and am having issues, Am I supposed to have options in the manage tab on the network screen? When I click manage it says "You do not have any nodes that you are designated a manager for. " seems I should have some options there, maybe that's why I cant complete my node linking? I am logged in with the same ID I use to manage my repeaters? Thanks, Colin.
  5. Hello All, I have been trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong here. I have both my nodes setup and both show up on the network page on mygmrs and both can be seen keying when I key my repeater the issue is I cannot figure out why they are not linking. I have used *813 and my node number on my handheld and added the other link on both ends and the radios respond and I get a different kick back beep and if I do a *70 i get a confirmation that the 2 nodes are linked but after about 10-15 mins they go back to repeat only... I'm sure there is probably some security thing I have to change to add permission to the other node in a config file or something. Thanks in advance for any help. Colin A.
  6. Hello all, I have 2 kenwood tkr-851 repeaters that I am trying to get working on the mygmrs network. I bought 2 pre made cables from mygmrs.com that interface my repeater model to the DMK URIxb interface boxes that I bought directly from DMK engineering due to mygmrs.com being out of stock. I am all new to this so it's probably something stupid. I got my 2 node numbers and a quick setup sheet to get me going. I loaded the image on an SD card and ran it, got my node number successfully setup and can see it on the Mygmrs network page as an active node. The problem is is that when I key up the repeater nothing happens on the node. I have looked up all the settings I can find and I am out of ideas. My repeater has 6 configurable pins for the TOR/COR output on the interface port and have tried all combinations I can think of. Also, is there a place that has a good tutorial on how to configure all the settings, youtube has a lot on app_rpt asterisk but nothing gmrs specific. Please help!! Colin WRJZ927
  7. Hello all, I recently bought a lot of these icom radios and purchased the firmware update for them but when I try to run the update loader there is a message that says "Error cannot make boot mode" I have checked the operators manual and the service manual and nothing tells me what I need to do and the firmware did not come with any instructions. The COM port is correct, it does connect and read the radio. Any help would be greatly appreciated as most of these units have a version 1.x firmware installed and have a lot of features missing. Thanks Colin
  8. @WROZ250 Ok, I am going to try to find somebody locally here that can retune it, I'm sure it wasnt tuned correctly when I received it even though the guy that sold it to me said he would "super tune" it to my frequency, whatever that means... I calibrated my meter and checked the duplexer when I got it and it was only set at around 70db on the reject and 2.5 db or so on the pass on the receive side. I am in the Sacramento area here in California if you have any suggestions on where to go... Thanks again for the info. Colin
  9. @WROZ250 Ok, that is some great info! I have watched the youtube videos, probably too much lol. The swr is not really jumping around unless I'm not understanding, its just reading less going into the duplexer that the notch style one did. if I go directly into the swr meter and into a dummy load I get 48 watts out of the repeater just as I did on the notch duplexer, the new duplexer seems to be drawing about 8 watts from the repeater at the back of the repeater and more like 12 watts at the end of the jumper cable going into the duplexer. Colin
  10. @WROZ250 The VNA I am using is a Nano type but it is supposed to do 90db no problem, it's not a cheap $65 unit, it's an actual branded vna. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099Z9J7ZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also per the tuning instructions I was to remove and set aside the cables " and make sure they go back in the same order and orientation" and tune each can individually, pass first then notch, when doing that the notch for each individual can only drops down into the 40-45 db range so the VNA was well within its specs from what I can tell. I did buy replacement N type connectors and was going to pick up some new rg-8U cable if someone recommended to do so. Do these SWR readings seem odd? or is this the norm for this type of duplexer, It may be normal I just dont know enough.. testing into a 50ohm dummy load doesn't change the results, same numbers. also I did check all connections and shook everything while on the analyzer and no weird shifts in the waves. Thanks Colin
  11. Hello all, Hoping I can get a few questions answered here. I recently built my first repeater and just started off with a cheap Chinease notch style duplexer. When I got the repeater online and did a few range tests I noticed the transmit range was about 12 miles but the receive range was less than a mile. After talking to a few people in my local repeater group I was told to ditch the notch style duplexer for a more favorable cavity style duplexer. I got on Ebay and found this Phelps Dodge 4 cavity duplexer model 696 and had it tuned for my repeater frequency. When I received it I hooked it up and got some strange results. When an SWR meter is hooked up to it between the transmit side of the repeater and the duplexer I was now getting 40 watts out of the repeater at the back of the repeater instead of the 48 watts i was getting with the notch duplexer 1.13 swr at the back of the repeater box. When I moved the meter to the end of the jumper cable and screwed the meter into the duplexer side I got 36 watts still connected between the repeater and duplexer 1.28 swr at this point. I then moved the meter to the antenna output at the tee connector on the duplexer and got the same wattage as I was getting on the input side at the duplexer 36 watts except now I was getting 1.01 swr. I then thought it was tuned poorly so I connected my VNA to it and found it was slightly out of tune and did a slight adjustment following the original tuning instructions I found on the repeater builder website and the numbers didn't really change. I then started looking at the cables between the cavities and found that a couple of the connectors were loose and one was failing so i replaced the 1 end paying close attention to not change the length of the cable as apparently it changes the performance of the duplexer adversely, the cables from the end cavities to the tee were electrical taped at the ends for some reason so I removed the electrical tape and they seemed firm. Other things to mention that might be helpful are the repeater is a Kenwood TKR 850-1 and the Antenna is a Comet 712-EFC. The jumper cable used between the repeater and duplexer's transmit side is a 36" piece of lmr400 with N connectors on both ends, the receive cable is a piece of RG-142 with an N connector on 1 end and an N on the other. No adapters are used on the jumpers. On the antenna side I am using LMR400 with an adapter from so239 to N on the duplexer side, N connecter on the antenna side. " I know I know" I need Heliax but I need to save up for the feedline, I should have it in place next month. The cables used between the cavities are pieces of RG-8U, on the Celwave version of this duplexer the cables are supposed to be RG-214 but I have seen some pictures of this duplexer on Ebay and they all seem to use RG-8U on the cavity cables. and according to the Celwave spec sheet for this duplexer the measured lengths of the cables are all correct. So my questions are: 1. are those reading normal from the SWR meter? I know there is usually loss through a duplexer but this seems weird. 2. Should I look into changing these cavity cables out due to poor fittings and electrical tape? 3. Are the jumper cables I have chosen ok for their purpose or should I change those out to something different. 4. Is the LMR400 to the antenna affection the duplexer performance? Oh and my range did change slightly, not nearly as much as I had hoped. Thanks in advance Colin.
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