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Kenwood TK-880H-1


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Ah yes.  Should have read closer.  And I was thinking the snip might be the deal as well.

 

PL change is all I should need once it's programmed.  Thinking of changing PL codes to match non 141.3 repeaters when travelling (I'm finding several).  Or, I suppose I could just add channels with corresponding PL codes when I program via software and name them for the repeater.

 

I'd actually already found the position of the resistor in the Service Manual.  I'll pop the top and find it then.

 

Also, just found this thread on the topic  https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/1369-programming-your-own-radios-and-front-panel-programming/

Regular brew-ha-ha.  Just kidding.

 

Thanks all!

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I desolder resistors on all three 880 I have. It is SMD resistor, so cannot be bent. You probably can carefully crush it with wire cutter, but I think, desoldering it safer.

I've done it too, and I agree. Actually you can just heat the entire resistor with a (preferably grounded) soldering iron, then just use the iron to flip it off the board.

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Just a matter of de-solder and remove R614?  used-radios won't do it in-house.  Is access easy enuf?

 

..and is FPP a lot simpler than software programming?

 

Thanks.

Access is not bad. It is on the circuit board that is behind the front panel. With the top and bottom covers off, the front panel pops off via a couple of clips. Then a couple of screws hold the board in place. You don't have to disconnect the ribbon cable; just flip the board over.

 

It also gives you a perfect opportunity to pull the keypad out and clean it. Or better yet, replace it with a nice new, white one that is intended for the 863G. It fits, is not expensive and in my opinion, the white keys look better.

 

Software programming is simpler than FPP. FPP is just something that is nice to have, just in case.

I didn't expect that Used Radios would remove the resistor. But if you can get them to enable FPP in software when they program it, if you ever get around to removing the resistor yourself, FPP will then work without any further software programming. In that case you could add a couple of additional channels to your existing 15 channels, without ever needing to connect it to a computer.

 

If you get your ham license and want to program some ham frequencies in your radio, you will definitely need to be able to program it yourself. You will also need to tweak a couple of things in the radio to get it to work properly down in the ham band. It will still work fine on GMRS, too. I've done that on a few of them too, so just hit me up for the info when you need it.

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Access is not bad. It is on the circuit board that is behind the front panel. With the top and bottom covers off, the front panel pops off via a couple of clips. Then a couple of screws hold the board in place. You don't have to disconnect the ribbon cable; just flip the board over.

 

It also gives you a perfect opportunity to pull the keypad out and clean it. Or better yet, replace it with a nice new, white one that is intended for the 863G. It fits, is not expensive and in my opinion, the white keys look better.

 

Software programming is simpler than FPP. FPP is just something that is nice to have, just in case.

I didn't expect that Used Radios would remove the resistor. But if you can get them to enable FPP in software when they program it, if you ever get around to removing the resistor yourself, FPP will then work without any further software programming. In that case you could add a couple of additional channels to your existing 15 channels, without ever needing to connect it to a computer.

 

If you get your ham license and want to program some ham frequencies in your radio, you will definitely need to be able to program it yourself. You will also need to tweak a couple of things in the radio to get it to work properly down in the ham band. It will still work fine on GMRS, too. I've done that on a few of them too, so just hit me up for the info when you need it.

Thanks for going the extra mile!

 

I like the faceplate replacement option (pet peeve: black on black for electronics).  Looks like "Control Panel" in service manual but not finding replacement p/n there or online.  No biggie.

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Thanks for going the extra mile!

 

I like the faceplate replacement option (pet peeve: black on black for electronics).  Looks like "Control Panel" in service manual but not finding replacement p/n there or online.  No biggie.

Actually, it's "Key Top" for the buttons.  And you're correct 880 is Black w/white letters.  863 is white buttons w/black letters.  I would never have noticed.  Good price IMO as well.  Ordered key top and extra mounting bracket (2-vehicle install).

https://www.pacparts.com/part.cfm?sku=881N96%2D6817%2D79

 

Don't find TK-863 in Search but 880 shows up and lists all models the parts fit.  There is a lot of overlap, a good thing.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Question is can I LEGALLY program in the HAM freq for Monitor only (no TX)?

 

 

Yes, absolutely.

 

So, now that I have a properly working 880 V2 and the correct FTDI cable and 49D software I thought I might try adding the local ham repeater frequencies for my listening pleasure.  I've found 4 local  repeaters in 443, 444, and 448.  One of 4 has no PL code, the others have the same PL Code.  Do I need the PL code to be able to monitor only?  They don't list TX/RX PL codes so can I assume they're the same or is only one used? 

 

Think I know the answer to this one but here goes:  will Multi-Scan on the 880 include the ham frequencies (group) as well?  

 

Of course, this is up for grabs whether it will work in the V2 880.  I view this as a step toward furthering my interest in ham and possibly moving forward.

 

Thanks.

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... Do I need the PL code to be able to monitor only? 

 

The answer to your first question is no. You do not need to set PL on receive to listen. PL is used where there may be more than one station transmitting on a frequency. Through the use of PL you can select which of those multiple station you listen to. This is common on GMRS, especially with repeaters. However, unlike GMRS where a large number of people use a small number of repeater frequencies, and therefore have learned how to share them, like by using PL, HAM repeaters are coordinated so there is almost never more than one repeater transmitting on a frequency, so no need for PL to "tune out" another station.

 

To state it a bit differently: If you did set PL for a HAM repeater and did it right, you'd never know. If you did it wrong, you'd never hear anything. So, there is no point in setting it at all  :)

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Setting the PL for receive filters out random noise as well. If you're scanning and you drive through an area with noise on one of the frequencies you have programmed, it will stop on that frequency and remain locked there until you either delete that channel from scan or travel out of range of the noise.

 

As for scanning, yes it will scan the ham freqs you have programmed if it is set up for multi scan.

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Next question(s):  Should I put ham channels in a separate Zone? 

And how do you switch between Zones? 

I have all my buttons occupied but can change one maybe.

 

My Wouxun 805G displays channels scrolling as they Scan.  The Kenwood does not, but just says Scan.  I currently have ham channels in Group 2 so wondering if they're actually scanning?  No way to transmit on ham to bring up a repeater for any confirmation (legally).  Should I leave the in Group 2 or move to Group 1?

 

Conventional. 

Group 1:  Ch  1-7    CH 23 – 31   

 

Button Programming:  

Selector =  CH UP/Down. 

AUX (Orange) = LAMP                                                           

S1 = Scan Multi.   

S2 = Squelch Off Momentary.       

S = Low TX Power. 

A = Talk Around. 

B.  Squelch Level. 

C.  Scan ADD/DELETE.

 

Thanks.

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post-955-0-04450000-1581966750_thumb.jpg

 

The tiny triangle on top of "7" means that the channel is added to scan.

 

I put all the channels in the same zone and educated family to not to use ham channels (except the daughter, she is licensed ham). Because, to switch between zones you'd need another pair of buttons, and we do not have that many.

 

My assignment:

Selector =  CH UP/Down. 

AUX (Orange) = popular local ham repeater  (going to reassign it to OST or to circle zones)                                                        

S1 = squelch off  

S2 = low power      

S = scan Start/stop

A = scan Add/delete

B = Bring the Boys Back home: GMRS home channel (with DPL, where we expect to handle all family communication, unless interference happens)

C = DTMF Code select

 

I also have mobile TK-880 (few of them), where I can try to have assignment somewhat similar, to have less confusion for everybody:

A = scan add/delete

B = home GMRS channel

C and D = zone select

SCN = scan start/stop

MON = squelch off

Up and Down (left) = volume

Up and Down (right)  = channel select

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Very helpful, thanks.  

 

I moved all channels to Zone 1.  I forgot about the triangle indicator for Scan, so yes, ham is included as programmed.

 

My first try with 2-way communication between home and town (15 miles and over a mountain, probably 10 mi. LOS + the obstruction).  The repeater is on the mountain between.  It worked well calling from the grocery store to inside my house, both of us on HT.  Odd for me though, was a gal chimed in saying she was on the channel to talk to her boss across town and wondering it it was a "private" channel and should she move.  Naw, whatever..  didn't really have an answer.  So, are their radios coincidentally setup with the repeater PL, is there bleed, or..??  My wife could hear her as well so have to assume the lady was on the repeater but how and why I don't know.

 

I'll try a simplex channel from home to town next time to be sure we're not hitting from 15 miles with a hill considerably higher than the house obstructing LOS.

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... Odd for me though, was a gal chimed in saying she was on the channel to talk to her boss across town and wondering it it was a "private" channel and should she move. Naw, whatever.. didn't really have an answer. So, are their radios coincidentally setup with the repeater PL, is there bleed, or..?? My wife could hear her as well so have to assume the lady was on the repeater but how and why I don't know....

Well, it could be a lot of things. However, illegal use of GMRS is not unknown.
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I also have mobile TK-880 (few of them), where I can try to have assignment somewhat similar, to have less confusion for everybody:

A = scan add/delete

B = home GMRS channel

C and D = zone select

SCN = scan start/stop

MON = squelch off

Up and Down (left) = volume

Up and Down (right)  = channel select

 

When programming ham channels into both the 880 and 3170 it pops up "Out of Freq Range" or such.  I ignored and said "OK" so I guess I'll have to hope someone hits a repeater when I'm monitoring to see if they work.  

Mirrored your buttons except:

3 Zones (GMRS, GMRS Repeaters, and ham Repeaters - 880 only).  So it will take a conscious effort to go to ham.  All set to Scan.

A = Talk Around

 

Programming is easy once I got past the apprehension and work it a bit.

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Yes, just ignore the warning about out of range, radio will work. I do not have sophisticated equipment, just a simple power meter, and I do not see any difference in power between ham band and GMRS band. Listening to the signal on another radio also do not show anything unusual.

Talk Around - I do not use it, I just programmed simplex frequencies with different PL/DPL codes. Pretty much all of my use is on simplex, anyway.

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  • 1 year later...

So, I'm just getting started in GMRS and prepping for Technician license in ham. Is the advise in this thread still valid for radio choices? I much prefer the idea of using commercial/industrial radios to the one-chip-wonders from China. The TK-880H isn't very available on ebay, but there are several 880 options. I'm guessing I should limit my choice to the "-1" radios for GMRS and 70cm (seem to be more "-2"s)? Are the 3170s still the handheld of choice as well?

 

Thanks,

 

JG

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Are the 3170s still the handheld of choice as well?

 

I don't have any experience with the Kenwood mobile radios so I can't address that question.

 

The Kenwood TK-3170 is a good radio. You should also consider the TK-370G-1, TK-3140-K (Type 1) and the TK-3173-K (Type 1). I have all these models and they work fine on GMRS, repeaters, simplex, split tones (analog and digital) and will program down in to the upper part of the Ham 70cm band. I have a TK-3180 that should be showing up in the next few days from an eBay purchase so I'll see how that works out. The TK-3173 is a TK-3170 but has built in trunking functions, which you don't care about for GMRS, but otherwise they are almost the exact same radio and use the same software.

 

When you buy a used radio try to find out if it's password locked. One of my TK-3170's showed up with a data read and a data write password. That prevented me from reading or writing anything to the radio. It took a while to track down a real "engineer's" version of the software which allows you to blow by any passwords in the radio to read it and then write your own code plug to it. The software also seems to have provisions for "hex editing" the radio's memory and a few other things the normal dealer or end user software won't allow.

 

I also have the "engineer's" version of the software for the TK-3180 just in case there are some "surprises" when I try to program it when it arrives.

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Regarding TK-880, you want "-1" if you want to have Part 95A certification. This radio also tunes to 70cm band. You may also look at TK-8180, they seem to be more available on ebay lately. When I was building out my system years ago, ebay was literally flooded with TK-880 in every possible flavor. Today other choices seem to be more available.

 

The TK-3170 and 3173 may be a radio of choice, depending on who's choosing and why. I have both. They are quite big by modern standards. Lscott covered them already. Radio can work with both Li-Ion and Ni-MH batteries, that are available for a reasonable prices on ebay. Charger that can handle both chemistries is KSC-25.

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A bigger handheld isn’t necessarily a bad thing. If you use your handheld radio with a moderate to high duty cycle it’s going to get real hot! Some time back a Ham wrote, on another forum, he failed the output stage on his TWICE from over heating due to a high duty cycle.

 

A larger radio has a larger metal sub-chassis, thus more thermal mass and more area to radiate heat. If you look at the typical specifications it shows 5-5-90. That’s 5 percent TX, 5 percent RX and 90 percent standby with no audio for battery life but it can also be applied roughly for thermal consideration.

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I'm also a tight wad. . . Currently, on ebay, I can get a TK-840 for around $25 or a TK-8180 for $90. I'm looking to get 2. Is the 8180 worth the price increase? I'll be setting one up as a base and the other as a mobile. Of note, the 840s do look a little worse-for-wear. . .

 

JG

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