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What power supply to get?


Guest Brooklyn

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Guest Brooklyn

Hello,

 

I registered for my license today, so I'm waiting for a call-sign to register here. In mean time I want to get all my supplies.

I bought a Kenwood TK880H v1, got the KPG49D software, USB cable, but now I need a power supply and antenna for this radio so I can start programming it.

 

Kenwood specs state 880H draws 12amps, should I get a 20amp switching power supply?  Can I go higher like a 30amp in case I'll be using different radios that will draw more amps or is it bad for lower amp radios? Which power supplies have a good reputation with radio users because I read online of a lot of complaints about long term quality or RF interference.  Is Pyramid brand any good? (I'm trying to avoid spending more on power supply than the radio itself.)

 

Another question is antenna. I live on a 6th floor and have a fire escape to mount the antenna.  The goal is to reach 30 miles out to where family is. 

I read about Ed Fong antenna; is it good for GMRS or you recommend something else? Can I get away with a smaller, mobile antenna or those have big trade offs?  All the tips or links to where I can read more here will be greatly appreciated.  Thank You!

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Welcome to MyGMRS :)

To start out with, The Amps rating on the radio should always be lower than that of the power supply. The Kenwood 880H (nice choice as this is the only radio I run BTW) uses 12.8Amps when transmitting on high power. Using a 15 amp or higher power supply that delivers 12.5-13.5 volts should be fine. I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this power supply for the house "base" radio. I do get a slight hum when the fan turns on, but for the most part it works without an issue. The whine should go away if I use a choke on the power wires but I was too lazy to order them.

I do not know much about Ed Fong antennas to really give you much advice on them. They seem to be custom home built antennas, which could be hit or miss. There are commercially available antennas for the 460-470 mhz range that may work better. I originally used a diamond 200U with good results, Now I use a comet 712EFC which has higher gain and is working great. One thing to note about mounting however. Keep in mind the primary use of a fire escape. You will need to run your feedline and mount the antenna in a way that would not interfere with an emergency evacuation should it ever occur. You would not believe how many times I've seen ham radio operators and CB'rs just throw the feedline across the fire escape completely blocking it should people need to evacuate. Or they mount Yagi antennas (a directional antenna) that block the escape. When I talk to some of them it seems their concern was that they could escape and the hell with the rest. They just don't realize they could be charged if someone is hurt or killed should a fire break out. So be sure to take great care with that for everyones safety!


 

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I use Astron SS-18 (15A continuous, 18A peak) with TK880H, bought it used off ebay. I tried Ed Fong's antenna, did not work for me well. SWR was very high. J-pole antennas need an efficient RF choke (that Ed Fong antenna lacks) to suppress common mode current, otherwise the feed cable becomes part of antenna and wreaks havoc with SWR and pattern, especially when routed close to metal mast or support. Another thing to consider is that you do not need 2m band, since your radio is TK880. Ed Fong's antenna is 5 feet long, being 2m-70cm antenna. I now use Browning BR-6140, works much better, about 2' long. Newegg still has them for $35. However, with 30miles distance, even on the 6th floor, you may need a directional antenna.

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I use the same power supply (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for my radio. I intend to use it to power a repeater in the near future so the added output capacity will be used. You don't need a matched pair of radios as a radio with a much lower output power can be the receiver with the transmit unit having the higher power.

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I use the same power supply (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for my radio. I intend to use it to power a repeater in the near future so the added output capacity will be used. You don't need a matched pair of radios as a radio with a much lower output power can be the receiver with the transmit unit having the higher power.

I use one for a portable repeater when its not running on battery power :) good little units

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Guest Brooklyn

I bought a power supply off ebay, found a decent price for a 23amp. I now will need to do good research on which antenna to buy.

Since directional antennas were recommended to hit 30 mile range, are there drawbacks to them and do they have to be large/wide for them to work well? What db gain should I be going for?

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I have little experience with directional antennas, however I do know that one drawback is that they are directional. Another words, you can have great signal 20 miles away lets say, North of your location, and crappy signal 1 mile away West of your location. Directional or "Beam" antennas are just that, one direction or beam.

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Guest Guest

I’m now a registered member. I got the Samlex sec 1223 power-supply and trying to figure out how to wire the terminals on the supply. This older model uses banana plugs for terminals. The screws don’t come off. What are my options to good wiring? What type of terminals could work here? I tried looking for higher amp banana plugs but not finding anything cheap.

977-DE92-B-B090-4588-AECE-242-C15-D7-AE8

 

B842-F24-D-3-FE2-4531-AFDE-8-F0-D515-BD0

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With the two choices you have your options are a little limited. If you see the power supply and radio as being fixed and not moving then a 14 or 16 gauge wire between the two terminals and your radio fed through the holes will be sufficient. The preferred wire would be stranded with a rubber or THNN plastic covering as insulation. If you think you will be moving the radio and/or the power supply around then use the banana plugs with a rubber or silicon insulated wire of the same gauge.

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For high-current banana plugs, I have very excellent results using Mediabridge SPC-BP2 plugs. Shop carefully, as the price varies widely, and wildly.  The best buy is picking them up in 12-pair packs for under $30, if you can use that many.

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For high-current banana plugs, I have very excellent results using Mediabridge SPC-BP2 plugs. Shop carefully, as the price varies widely, and wildly.  The best buy is picking them up in 12-pair packs for under $30, if you can use that many.

How do you wire these plugs because they don't look like you can crimp the wires to them?

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Mu suggestion would be either to:

- rewire radio with Anderson powerpoles, and fabricate a pigtail for the power supply;

- rewire radio with Yaesu-Kenwood-Icom T-connector, and fabricate a pigtail for the power supply;

- keep existing connector on the radio (I think it is GM-style car radio power connector, available at auto-stores) and fabricate a pigtail with corresponding connector for the power supply.

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Mu suggestion would be either to:

- rewire radio with Anderson powerpoles, and fabricate a pigtail for the power supply;

- rewire radio with Yaesu-Kenwood-Icom T-connector, and fabricate a pigtail for the power supply;

- keep existing connector on the radio (I think it is GM-style car radio power connector, available at auto-stores) and fabricate a pigtail with corresponding connector for the power supply.

 

My vote is for the rewire with Andersons. I pretty much use Andersons for my radios all the way down to my RC helis. You can even make them into a "T" shape to help with not miss connecting them. Once you start converting, who cares what type it came with because the wire cutter and crimpers are coming out it 10 seconds.

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[...You can even make them into a "T" shape to help with not miss connecting them.

Standard PowerPoles have a small key that allows two connectors (black and red) to be connected together. In this manner it is impossible to mis-connect them. You can also buy them already bonded together in the same manner, or just glue them together with super glue, or, if you have no other means, just wrap tape around the pair of connectors.
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How do you wire these plugs because they don't look like you can crimp the wires to them?

RE: SPC-BP2 Banana plugs...

 

These screw together, and have a compression-fit internal base with teeth all around the plug center core.  You strip the wire back about 3/8 of an inch, put the wire up through the plug shell, and then fan the wire strands out around the teeth.  Screw the plug body back onto the pin, and tighten down.  VERY solid connection with no crimping, no soldering, and no tools other than the wire stripper.

 

EDIT: Note... You cannot use these with solid wire. Must be stranded.

 

Edit again: INSTRUCTIONS: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91U5ZPPxbbL._SL1500_.jpg

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Guest WQQL731

Looking at your power supply terminals, by chance do they screw inwards in a clockwise turn to tighten? If so just tin the ends of your power lead and insert through the holes in the terminals and tighten the red and black plastic knurled knobs onto the wire for a "locked in" grip on the wires.

 

WQQL731

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I like the battery power supply option, You would purchase a nice deep cycle battery and an appropriate low noise charger for said battery. then connect your gear to the battery via a fused circuit. Your power will generally be 13.8v and during grid power fail, you will still have 12.5 to 13v and several hours of stand by power. In my case, I have a 110AH lead acid battery under my bench and 12v power outlets at my work space. I also have several 12v powered tools and a ventilation fan. I also have a 9" LED TV that only uses 5.5 watts. Great post storm set up, keeps communications going for several hours. Our repeater has a 55 AH AGM battery and operates for up to a day of lite to moderate use. clean quite power supplies like Astron can cost several hundred, this set is comparable in price.

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I like the battery power supply option...

I also like the battery option. I am using a pair of 6-volt Trojan golf cart batteries in series, and float charge them at 12.8 Volts. Yes, it's not 13.8, but 12 Volts is close enough, and that last 1 watt of transmit power that I am losing really does not make any difference whatsoever.  At 12.8 Volts, I only need to add water to the batteries once every 60 days or so.  If I float them at 13.8 volts, they will boil out in 2 days or less.

 

Those golf cart batteries are extremely high current, and very deep cycle. They can keep my whole ham station going for an unknown amount of time. I do cycle them once a week by shutting off the charge supply, letting the voltage go down to about 11.8, then turning the supply back on.  Under normal monitoring and light-duty transmit, running it down to under 12 Volts takes about 12-14 hours.

 

I also have a solar array that I can patch into the power bus if needed or desired, and a 7.5KW continuous-duty gasoline powered Generac Niagara with a whole-house Eaton transfer switch if times get really tough.

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So I wired the power supply with banana plugs, connected radio with anderson plugs but now 2 of the Kenwood 880H do not power on.

I suspected the power supply is broken. I got a voltage meter and the power supply is showing it’s outputting 13.92V so that seems to be operating? Is it possible for power supply to show right voltage but still be malfunctioning and not outputting enough Amps to power on the radio? Or did I buy very old Kenwoods that are busted?

EF81-F969-7-B02-47-CE-8789-74-E846-CEA30what qualifications do i need to be a forensic anthropologist

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Check the Anderson Power Poles to make certain that the inserts have clipped over the internal springs. If they aren't fully seated, trying to connect them will push the inserts back and break the connection(s).

I had to fix two of them today that I "thought" were fully seated. :unsure:

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I powered up another 12 volt device and it worked from this power supply so I’m now thinking the problem is with the radios.

I removed anderson plugs and bare wired the radio and it still won’t turn on. I will tinker with it more and if I can’t figure out how to go around the potential ignition sense connection, then I’ll return the radios.

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