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Mobile radio over 15 watts causing issues with the Jeep JK


Mikeam

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In watching a few "install videos" for the Jeep JK 2011 some refer to an issue of using more than 15 watts output due to interference with the electrical system, mainly the dash lights and instrument panel! anyone have any first hand experience with this? Not the ham radios but the GMRS radios (mobile units). Thanks

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I did experience a massive problem with any RF transmitter if the antenna was mounted on the swing gate. Every time I keyed up, my dash would do a hard reboot, my windshield wipers would turn on and my climate control would turn off for a quick second.

 

The problem was that I ran dual tops. When the soft top was on, I had no issues. However, when the hard top was on, the antenna was so close to the back window that is would send a ton of RFI into the Jeep through the rear window defogger and rear windshield wiper assembly.

 

My solution was to leave the back window electronics completely unplugged unless it was snowing or we had very heavy rain, and not use that radio when they were plugged in.

 

Any radios that went through antennas mounted on the hood were fine. When the hard top was off, it was fine. I ran 180 watt amp most days... occasionally up to 500 watts.

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I did experience a massive problem with any RF transmitter if the antenna was mounted on the swing gate. Every time I keyed up, my dash would do a hard reboot, my windshield wipers would turn on and my climate control would turn off for a quick second.

 

The problem was that I ran dual tops. When the soft top was on, I had no issues. However, when the hard top was on, the antenna was so close to the back window that is would send a ton of RFI into the Jeep through the rear window defogger and rear windshield wiper assembly.

 

My solution was to leave the back window electronics completely unplugged unless it was snowing or we had very heavy rain, and not use that radio when they were plugged in.

 

Any radios that went through antennas mounted on the hood were fine. When the hard top was off, it was fine. I ran 180 watt amp most days... occasionally up to 500 watts.

 

Wouldn't a torrid or a choke help with the common mode rf energy riding the wiper/defogger wiring? I know mostly they are used to stop noise. Just wondering if they would help any.

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I had put 6 chokes on the harness and it made zero difference. The antenna was literally less than 2 inches away from the defroster. Nothing helped but removing the element from the wiring harness.

 

Later, I added antennas up front, which gave me options... but when I wanted to use my 102" or 114" antennas for HF, I had to use the mount in the back, because the hood mounts couldn't hold the weight.

 

It wasn't much of a hassle to just unplug and reconnect as needed, so I just kept doing that.

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I had put 6 chokes on the harness and it made zero difference. The antenna was literally less than 2 inches away from the defroster. Nothing helped but removing the element from the wiring harness.

 

Later, I added antennas up front, which gave me options... but when I wanted to use my 102" or 114" antennas for HF, I had to use the mount in the back, because the hood mounts couldn't hold the weight.

 

It wasn't much of a hassle to just unplug and reconnect as needed, so I just kept doing that.

At least the equipment aren't absolutely essential.

 

When I had pieced my dream virtual JKU I had looked at Cooltech mounts. There was another mount that bolted onto the door hinges, might have been a hi lift mount, to mod into an antenna mount. I of course printed out the list paper and deleted the file, when I saw how much it would cost. My wife asked me what I was doing, I told her burning up a dream. Over the course, I learned if mobile radio is a compromise, then on the JKU or its relatives it was a bigger compromise.

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I would love to buy a new jeep but the lack of a metal roof has put me off.

Could always get a gladiator (probably not inclined as much to take the top off. Then you get a bed to work with. Or you can drill through the roof and put a big old piece of sheet metal inside as a ground plane

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Could always get a gladiator (probably not inclined as much to take the top off. Then you get a bed to work with. Or you can drill through the roof and put a big old piece of sheet metal inside as a ground plane

You don’t even need sheet metal. Window screen material (aluminum or other Electrically conductive), chicken wire, or similar works just fine as long as you insure proper grounding at the NMO mount point. I’ve even had good luck using aluminum HVAC tape to create ground plane on the underside of non-conductive roofs.

 

I prefer to use 3/8” thick surface NMO mounts when dealing with fiberglass or similar materials.

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