Jeep antenna mount

[Elkhunter521]

After my 2001 Superduty F350 was stolen, I replaced it with a 2019 Jeep Wrangler 2 door. I never realized how problematic mounting  antennas for GMRS & CB was.

50 watt GMRS  and a CB (with a little extra).

Suggestions with pictures would be appreciated. 

 

 

 

[SargeDiesel]

20 hours ago, marcspaz said:

Yeah, 14 is too small if you are going more than a few feet.  When I had my MXT500, I cut the factory wires off and replaced them with 12, and 45 amp power pole connectors.

Ok, so I ordered the Comet RS-720NMO and my replacement  MXTA26. 

I checked my coax for any pinching,  sharp bends or damage and it appears to be in good order.

After it being said that the 14g power cord is to small a gauge,  in short of building my own,  what would be a proper way to test it to see if it is up to task ?  Also, even though I believe it to be good condition,  same question for the coax.

Can any of the testing be done without buying expensive equipment that I will only use this once and most likely never use again  ?  I do have both analog/digital multimeters and the cheap SW-33+.

[BoxCar]

4 minutes ago, SargeDiesel said:

Can any of the testing be done without buying expensive equipment that I will only use this once and most likely never use again  ?  I do have both analog/digital multimeters and the cheap SW-33+.

There are lots of tables on the web that list the current carrying capacity of the different gauges of wire and others that cover the loss or resistance of wire by the foot. The tables from the NEC are primarily for household wiring and not for low voltage DC wiring.

[marcspaz]

1 hour ago, SargeDiesel said:

Ok, so I ordered the Comet RS-720NMO and my replacement  MXTA26. 

I checked my coax for any pinching,  sharp bends or damage and it appears to be in good order.

After it being said that the 14g power cord is to small a gauge,  in short of building my own,  what would be a proper way to test it to see if it is up to task ?  Also, even though I believe it to be good condition,  same question for the coax.

Can any of the testing be done without buying expensive equipment that I will only use this once and most likely never use again  ?  I do have both analog/digital multimeters and the cheap SW-33+.

 

Where are you? Like, what state? I am in VA and have a ton of test equipment, if you're nearby. 

 

The best way to check for voltage drop is to measure the power at the source and then at the radio. It should not be more than 0.5v or the loss is considered excessive. 

 

The antenna and cables really require an analyzer. 

[marcspaz]

On 8/14/2022 at 8:13 PM, Elkhunter521 said:

After my 2001 Superduty F350 was stolen, I replaced it with a 2019 Jeep Wrangler 2 door. I never realized how problematic mounting  antennas for GMRS & CB was.

50 watt GMRS  and a CB (with a little extra).

Suggestions with pictures would be appreciated. 

 

 

 

 

For GMRS, just use the same type and location I am, and put the CB antenna on the swing gate. You can use a lip mount, just be sure to get the same style that your antenna uses.

[SargeDiesel]

52 minutes ago, marcspaz said:

Where are you? Like, what state? I am in VA and have a ton of test equipment, if you're nearby. 

Generous offer !  I'm in Alabama... but if/when I get your way, I will look you up !

I tested at the battery and the radio end and it was the same, I  might need to move my meter over a click or two to see if there is a .5v loss....  I  was thinking I needed to measure when keying the mic ?  Other than using the needle point prongs and poking a hole in the wire,  I  wasn't sure how to do it.. or if I needed to.

 

[KAF6045]

11 hours ago, SargeDiesel said:

Generous offer !  I'm in Alabama... but if/when I get your way, I will look you up !

I tested at the battery and the radio end and it was the same, I  might need to move my meter over a click or two to see if there is a .5v loss....  I  was thinking I needed to measure when keying the mic ?  Other than using the needle point prongs and poking a hole in the wire,  I  wasn't sure how to do it.. or if I needed to.

 

Testing with PTT down, on high power, might be desirable -- it would show if the higher current drain pulls down the voltage. Suggest picking the emptiest channel in the 15-22 range (1-7 are limited to HT power levels). Better would be with a dummy load -- so you don't have to fully ID and declare "equipment testing".

At least you aren't looking at a 100W HF/6/2/70 radio... THERE is a current hog. (Fortunately, that install didn't need extending the factory power cable -- under passenger seat to battery was in range).

 

[marcspaz]

14 hours ago, SargeDiesel said:

Generous offer !  I'm in Alabama... but if/when I get your way, I will look you up !

I tested at the battery and the radio end and it was the same, I  might need to move my meter over a click or two to see if there is a .5v loss....  I  was thinking I needed to measure when keying the mic ?  Other than using the needle point prongs and poking a hole in the wire,  I  wasn't sure how to do it.. or if I needed to.

 

 

As @KAF6045 mentioned, you do need to do the test on both ends while transmitransmitting at the highest power possible.  I missed that very important step..

 

So... what is it on the battery side when transmitting, and then what is it at the radio when transmitting? There should be 0.5vdc difference or less to be considered 'ok'.

[SargeDiesel]

13 minutes ago, marcspaz said:

So... what is it on the battery side when transmitting, and then what is it at the radio when transmitting

I will test it this way.... and hopefully I won't see a greater drop than the stated .5v.... if so, I will be making my own cable. 

You mentioned power pole connectors,  is this for the radio lead to plug into the power cable.... seems this would require me to cut the harness/connectors coming out of the radio  ?? Could you explain the purpose/benefit of the power poles ? Instead of just using the oem connection coming from the radio and at the end of the power cable  in conjunction with inline fuses ?

[BoxCar]

Use the Power Pole connectors between the fuses and the power source. Power Poles use the same housing for inserts rated  at 15, 30 and 45A. !5A terminals handle 14Ga wire, 30A for up to 12G and the 45A will take 10Ga and maybe even 8Ga. I only have 10Ga as my heaviest wire so I can't say for certain about the 8Ga.

[marcspaz]

I always cut the T connector off and use power poles because that is my standardization. This allows me to move gear to any of my test benches or vehicles and have a standard connector, so it just plugs in.

 

Also, as mentioned above, you can get them in specific amp rating for adding heavier wire. 

 

Also, unlike the T connector or weather packs, the power pole connectors are spring loaded, applying more force for less losses at the connector. 

 

They were designed to be crimped, but I both crimped and then solder.

[SargeDiesel]

On 8/26/2022 at 3:08 PM, marcspaz said:

I always cut the T connector off and use power poles because that is my standardization. This allows me to move gear to any of my test benches or vehicles and have a standard connector, so it just plugs in.

How did you go about adding the inline fuses to the wires ?  I've seen 10g fuse holders, but you would have to add them in.. which would mean two more additional connections on each line (or atleast one if you put the ring terminas on one end for the battery).. I am not sure how else to go about it. 

[marcspaz]

9 hours ago, SargeDiesel said:

How did you go about adding the inline fuses to the wires ?  I've seen 10g fuse holders, but you would have to add them in.. which would mean two more additional connections on each line (or atleast one if you put the ring terminas on one end for the battery).. I am not sure how else to go about it. 

 

Fuses/circuit breakers and the Ring connectors for the battery all get soldered.  I put the fuses in line no more than 12 inches from the battery (usually less) and just use water proof fuse holders.  On some vehicles, I've even added secondary fuse boxes for my radios/amps/etc. that use bolt-down terminals. 

[kidphc]

The GMRS antenna on both my Jeeps is at the rear-passenger corner. Its not the most optimal location, but it works just fine.  SWR on the LJ is 2.1:1, and on the JKU is 1.6:1 .. Range is great and I regularly get simplex fars of 20+Miles and can hit one of my repeaters from 98 miles.. So dont let any of the "experts" tell you that this mounting location "wont work"... Both Jeeps have Motorola XTL5000 radios.
CB (when I used it) was same location, but dont use CB anymore.

Some awful nice radios for gmrs usage.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[SargeDiesel]

On 8/28/2022 at 8:57 AM, marcspaz said:

On some vehicles, I've even added secondary fuse boxes for my radios/amps/etc. that use bolt-down terminals

Thats about what I was considering doing, since the pre-assembled waterproof fuse holders are about that long anyway.   A few connctions/splices seem unavoidable,  so the real key will be getting good, tight crimp connections and clean soldiering.  You definitely don't save any money making your own cable,  but you most certainly will have one of superior quality. (Unless you buy in bulk and make several like you do).  Ow that I am getting several accessories,  I am most likely considering a 12v distribution box... like this (or making one myself):

https://badgeglow.com/product/simpleaux/?connection-type=Pre-wired Crimp Pigtails

[marcspaz]

1 hour ago, SargeDiesel said:

Thats about what I was considering doing, since the pre-assembled waterproof fuse holders are about that long anyway.   A few connctions/splices seem unavoidable,  so the real key will be getting good, tight crimp connections and clean soldiering.  You definitely don't save any money making your own cable,  but you most certainly will have one of superior quality. (Unless you buy in bulk and make several like you do).  Ow that I am getting several accessories,  I am most likely considering a 12v distribution box... like this (or making one myself):

https://badgeglow.com/product/simpleaux/?connection-type=Pre-wired Crimp Pigtails

 

The part in bold is QFT! 

 

That distro block looks decent.  If it doesn't come with a cover, keep the connections greased so they stay clean and dry and you should be good to go.

[SargeDiesel]

@marcspaz

I have my antenna and my whole set up run like you.  I went to put the Comet mount on the hood like you have yours and I noticed a bead that goes all the way around the hood, it looked like where the hood seams are welded together.... I sanded it thinking it was an aluminum weld, but its a brown colored hard substance,  either a polymer type glue or bondo type material used to secure the hood seams together where the hood top folds over the underside....

You had mentioned,  you sanded to the aluminum to make contact with the mount,  did you see what I am talking about and sand through it or is something different on yours , if possible a couple close shots of the underside of your hood and how you sanded to make a ground would be helpful. 

 

[marcspaz]

5 hours ago, SargeDiesel said:

You had mentioned,  you sanded to the aluminum to make contact with the mount,  did you see what I am talking about and sand through it or is something different on yours

 

I went through and looked at my posts.  I didn't see anywhere I said I sanded anything.  If I mentioned that in another thread or said something that made you think I did, I apologize.  I didn't sand down anything.

 

The antenna mount comes with one of two bare aluminum plates that you can put between the set screws and the hood, so the screws don't puncture the hood/paint.  I did not use those clamping plates, but rather let the screws puncture the paint and clamp to the aluminum. 

 

If you notice in my picture below, I just ran the screws through the seem seal to make the contact.

 

[SargeDiesel]

1 hour ago, marcspaz said:

 

I went through and looked at my posts.  I didn't see anywhere I said I sanded anything.  If I mentioned that in another thread or said something that made you think I did, I apologize.  I didn't sand down anything.

 

The antenna mount comes with one of two bare aluminum plates that you can put between the set screws and the hood, so the screws don't puncture the hood/paint.  I did not use those clamping plates, but rather let the screws puncture the paint and clamp to the aluminum. 

 

If you notice in my picture below, I just ran the screws through the seem seal to make the contact.

 

No apologies needed,  you have been very helpful.   It was my mistake,  after I re-read ... I  realized you mentioned that you "poked" through to the aluminum.   I thought the bead was aluminum,  so I was going to use the plates that came with the mount and have a great connection where I sanded, but I then realized that it wasn't aluminum.   I have the 720 which is quite a bit smaller than yours,  so to poke through the bead , I think I might need longer allen head screws.

So it looks like you were able to punture through the seam pretty well to the aluminum for a good ground.

I will give it another shot. 

[marcspaz]

@SargeDiesel sounds good. 

 

yeah,, the standard duty mounts tend to have shorter and thinner screws since it's not intended to hold as much weight. Stores like ACE Hardware should have longer screws. I haven't checked the big stores, like Lowe's or Home Depot, but they may, too.

[back4more70]

On 8/24/2022 at 7:12 PM, OffRoaderX said:

Put a forest, hills, or houses full of fat-people between me and the other radio, and the fars will drop significantly.

I prefer being referred to as a Well-Marbled American, if you don't mind, sir.

[marcspaz]

4 hours ago, back4more70 said:

I prefer being referred to as a Well-Marbled American, if you don't mind, sir.

 

Exactly! While everyone else is a NY Strip, we're a Ribeye. LoL