Preferred Connections?

[WRDJ205]

Just received a new Wouxun KGXS-20G.  The power in comes with a standard T plug and they incl a “T x plain wire” and “T x Aux plug (aka cigarette lighter)”.  

I ordered a couple of pigtails or adapters for the variety of ways to supply power.  Most have the SAE plugs on them.  Originally, I planned to use Anderson but that would mean I would have to replace many of the plugs.  
 

What is the general opinion on using the Aux power plug or SAE connectors for a mobile mount?  What are the advantages (if any) to replacing existing with Anderson?  

[Lscott]

12 hours ago, WRDJ205 said:

To monitor the draw I bought a pretty nice watt meter.  Unfortunately it only came with power poles.  Guess I’ll have to either cut them off or make some adapters.  

Anderson Power Poles are commonly used. I have just about everything I use outfitted with them. There is sort of a semi official configuration for them. 

Anderson Powerpoles - Standard for ARES and RACES.pdf ARES - RACES Standard 12 VDC Power Connector.pdf INSERTION - EXTRACTION TOOL FOR PP15-45.pdf

[BoxCar]

Being a 20W transceiver it won't draw more than 8 amps so the cig adapter is fine for temporary installations. If you are planning on mounting the radio permanently, then my preference is for the Power Poles.

[WSAM454]

 

You will fine extremes on both sides of this discussion, and actually, some feel that the SAE connectors have better high-current-handling properties and a more secure, water-resistant connection than the ever-popular Power Poles.  As BoxCar said, for current draw under about 6-8 Amps the cigarette lighter plug is fine, and if you do not foresee many rig/power connections, (using the rig in more than one car, or in car and home)  then the SAE should serve you fine.    If you want the ability to use your equipment along with others then the PP might be a more universal consideration.

[WRXP381]

Hard wire it with solderable crimp connectors directly to the battery with heavy gauge wire so when you upgrade the wires are already run.  Put a fuse at the battery use marine grade shrink wrap.  

[WRQC527]

59 minutes ago, WRDJ205 said:

What are the advantages (if any) to replacing existing with Anderson?  

I like Andersons because they're easy to use, they're secure, and idiot-resistant. However, there is a school of thought that even though they are "self-cleaning", meaning every time you disconnect and connect them, the contacts are scraped, if you will, and kept clean, the contacts can corrode ever-so-slightly over time and present resistance in the circuit if they are not periodically disconnected and reconnected. While I've never had this issue, it's something to think about if you're planning to use them as permanent connections, especially in a mobile environment. You really can't beat wiring straight to the battery with the proper fuses and the factory T-connector. I've also had problems with the cigarette lighter plug popping out. I only use that as a last resort. Like powering an HT with a battery eliminator.

[WRYZ926]

The cigarette plug is fine for temporary use. I prefer wiring the positive lead directly to the battery and the ground directly to the chassis. I use ring terminals that I crimp and solder. 

There are pro's and con's with Anderson's and the T connectors. I have so far just used what comes with the radios and haven't made the switch to Anderson's yet. If you decide to go with Anderson Power Poles, then I will suggest sticking with the actual Anderson brand versus the cheap knockoffs found on Amazon.

[WRDJ205]

55 minutes ago, WRYZ926 said:

If you decide to go with Anderson Power Poles, then I will suggest sticking with the actual Anderson brand versus the cheap knockoffs found on Amazon.

Yea, I saw some of the reviews for the copies.  I’d prob be more likely to go the power pole route I didn’t need another crimping tool.  

[WRDJ205]

1 hour ago, BoxCar said:

If you are planning on mounting the radio permanently, then my preference is for the Power Poles.

I plan to make a mobile box that I could keep most of the parts and pieces in to make it easier to grab and go.  In that box I was going to have a LiPO4 battery for some on-board power.  
 

To monitor the draw I bought a pretty nice watt meter.  Unfortunately it only came with power poles.  Guess I’ll have to either cut them off or make some adapters.  

[WRYZ926]

Using power poles does make things easy and simpler. I will buy the actual Anderson brand and the correct crimper when I start switching things over. My plans are to use them for a go box.

@WRDJ205 I am going to suggest to just use the connector that came with the KG-XS20G since it is water resistant. I also suggest running the positive lead to the battery and the ground to chassis ground of your vehicle. Here is where ring terminals that are crimped and soldered is better.

[Lscott]

2 hours ago, WRYZ926 said:

Using power poles does make things easy and simpler. I will buy the actual Anderson brand and the correct crimper when I start switching things over. My plans are to use them for a go box.

@WRDJ205 I am going to suggest to just use the connector that came with the KG-XS20G since it is water resistant. I also suggest running the positive lead to the battery and the ground to chassis ground of your vehicle. Here is where ring terminals that are crimped and soldered is better.

For "under the hood" and exposure to weather that's a good idea. On the inside of the passenger cabin, a home setting or a sealed enclosure the power poles are a good idea.

[WRYZ926]

3 hours ago, Lscott said:

For "under the hood" and exposure to weather that's a good idea. On the inside of the passenger cabin, a home setting or a sealed enclosure the power poles are a good idea.

This is true.

I kept the waterproof connector on my KG-XS20G simply because I have it installed in my SxS.