CMG1012
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Posts posted by CMG1012
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3 minutes ago, KAF6045 said:
Accounting for internal circuit losses -- a 5W output could result in 10-15W input. At 13.8V (nominal running voltage of a vehicle) that would be about 1A of current. USB provides 5V, so you are already looking at some voltage converter circuit. 15W at 5V means a 3A current draw (which would be transformed to just over 1A at 13.8/12V). As mentioned, a dedicated USB (fast) charger provides less than 2A at full draw.
Shoot. Looks like the converter I was thinking of purchasing wouldn’t cover it. Input rated at 5v 2A and output at 12v .8A. Thanks.
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10 minutes ago, axorlov said:
Not sure I understand the use case. You've got battery eliminator already, so you can use it in car. Do you want to use this battery eliminator at home? And power it from USB power adapter? This will not work for two reasons: USB provides 5V, while you'd need 12V (maybe 9V, depending on a construction of battery eliminator); and small USB power bricks for phones provide "dirty" power, i.e. the voltage is not filtered from ripple noise.
You would need something that puts out at least 12V (again, maybe 9V will be enough) and something that provides "clean" power, like MFJ-4103, for example. But that's going to be expensive.
No. I’m going to use it in the car. My cigarette lighter port is being used by something else, but my car has a lot of usb ports available. So I was going to buy a “usb to cigarette converter”. The input of the converter is 5v 2A and the output is 12v 0.8A. The max stated watts is 8 watts. I wasn’t sure if that was enough to run the radio. Here is the link to the product:
USB A Male to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter Cable (8W Max) https://a.co/d/dJI8JUt
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21 minutes ago, Sshannon said:
The USB 2.0 spec limits current draw to 500mA (100mA per port and up to 5 ports).
However, USB chargers can supply up to 1.8 amp. At 5 volts that’s about 9 watts.
Cigarette lighters on the other hand can attempt to draw much more than that, depending on the wiring and fuse.
Using a USB to cigarette lighter female port should only be used for very low current items. I wouldn’t try to power a five watt transceiver that way.That makes sense, thank you.
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3 minutes ago, BoxCar said:
That's probably a Chinglish problem. Those plugs are usually rated for 8 to 10 amps not watts.
USB A Male to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter Cable (8W Max) https://a.co/d/ghPnHLR
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I purchased the battery eliminator (dummy battery with cigarette lighter plug) for the UV9GX. It is rated for 12v input and outputs 7.9v. I am looking to purchase a usb to female cigarette port adapter, however they all appear to be rated at no more than 8-10w use. Would that be enough to power the radio? I’m unsure of how many watts or amps it will pull from the adapter.
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On 8/7/2022 at 10:19 PM, Sshannon said:
The first test should be to see if you can receive anything. Did you try that?
Although you say nothing has changed, it's obvious that something has changed that affects the radio. It's acting like the antenna is disconnected somewhere, causing high SWR and heating up the circuits. Since you say there's no visible physical damage, I would check for moisture damage. Test the antenna cable with a multimeter at the very least. You should see no continuity between the center conductor and the shield. You should see no or very low impedance between one end of the shield and the other. Same for the center conductor - continuity between ends.
If you have another section of cable (and even another antenna) you could try it to see if the radio works with it. Again, check for reception before jumping right in and transmitting. If it cannot receive from a nearby handheld, there may be some hidden damage that transmitting would only exacerbate.
Good luck!
Reception was fine. Continuity was fine within the antenna cable. So I went to look at the antenna specifically and under close examination the cylindrical "cover" had displaced from the base... it's a midland 3db short stubby antenna. I was able to remove the cover completely and see the wiring inside. I'm unsure if this is what caused the issued but I re-glued the cover down to the base and the radio is back to normal. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. Glad my radio wasn't toast.
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33 minutes ago, marcspaz said:
Did the vehicle need to be jump-started or did the battery deplete to below 11.8 volts?
Other recommendations above are good, too.
No, I have a deep cycle AGM battery so it stays full even after long periods of inactivity. Car started right up. Good thought though!
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1 hour ago, OffRoaderX said:
If a factory reset doesnt clear it up and assuming the antenna is connected and there are no antenna cable issues then my guess is that it is borked..
Still less than one year old? If so, contact BuyTwoWayRadios and they'll fix you up.
Purchased July 2021. Missed it by a month. Will check with them regardless if the other suggestions don’t pan out.
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1 hour ago, Sshannon said:
The first test should be to see if you can receive anything. Did you try that?
Although you say nothing has changed, it's obvious that something has changed that affects the radio. It's acting like the antenna is disconnected somewhere, causing high SWR and heating up the circuits. Since you say there's no visible physical damage, I would check for moisture damage. Test the antenna cable with a multimeter at the very least. You should see no continuity between the center conductor and the shield. You should see no or very low impedance between one end of the shield and the other. Same for the center conductor - continuity between ends.
If you have another section of cable (and even another antenna) you could try it to see if the radio works with it. Again, check for reception before jumping right in and transmitting. If it cannot receive from a nearby handheld, there may be some hidden damage that transmitting would only exacerbate.
Good luck!
I will check this tomorrow! Great tip.
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I have the Wouxun KG1000G radio mounted to one of my cars which doesn’t see much use unless we are traveling. The radio has worked very well up until today. I haven’t used it in a while but decided to turn it on just for kicks. When I tried to transmit the signal was not going out, instead the radio’s internal fan kicked on and stayed on indefinitely. The fan typically only kicks on when I transmit. I tried a reset and got the same thing. Nothing has changed in the vehicle since last time I used the radio 4 or so months ago. Antenna seems solid on the mount as it’s always been. No antenna cable damage apparent. Again, nothing has changed in the car… it’s been parked for 4 months or so. Any ideas?
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Thank you all, lots to learn!
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I ordered a KG-UV9G and the Wouxun ELO-004 V2 BTE-9 12V Battery Eliminator Cigarette Lighter Plug. Has anyone successfully converted the cigarette lighter plug to USB? I would like to run this radio plugged into my car full time. There is a USB plug readily available next to where I would mount radio.
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Reviving this old thread to see if someone can give me a precise measurement of the distance between the screw holes. I’m working on a mounting solution for this same radio while I wait for mine to arrive. Thanks.
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On 7/3/2021 at 9:22 PM, DonErle said:
Forgot to mention the options for DTMFST
DT-ST: Activates keypad sidetone
ANI-ST: Activates Caller ID sidetone
DT+ANT: Activates both keypad and Caller ID sidetones
Reviving an old thread to understand a bit more about my new radio. I learned a bit more about the PTT-ID now, thank you! Can I get clarification on the difference between Keypad Sidetone and Caller ID Sidetone please?
How many amps does a kg-UV9GX use?
in Technical Discussion
Posted
Thanks all!