Antenna Switch opinions... Asking my brothers/sisters for thoughts and ideas.

[kidphc]

I have a Diamond X200a in my attic for 2m/70cm fm operation. Was given a 7 element DIY GMRS Yagi. Which will have to go in the attic also, because of the HOA.

i was investigating remote coax switches to limit the runs of wires going up the side of the house. Don't want the HOA to have a reason to poke around my house and see my bird stoop random wire antenna.

I was planning on mounting a horizontal polarised 3 element 70cm yagi, a 3 element horizontal 2m yagi as well as the GMRS yagi. With a possibility of a fan dipole for hf. 

However, on investigation there aren't many if at all off the shelf remote coax switches that support vhf/uhf/gmrs frequencies. Most are HF or SUHF (silly expensive). Gonna be hard to explain why I have up to 4-7 runs of coax and control wires etc. Going up the side of the house. It's ugly already the way it is with one run of LMR400. Diplexers are kinda out due to the fact that i would need so many of them adding to the cost.

I thought about buying a DIY switch kit on ebay, modifying it to use CX-140D (silly expensive, cost about $300 aprox $70 each just to cover the uhf/vhf ). Really not sure if I have the skills or thought process to do this.

I should mention that the current coax line is DC Blocked at the lightning arrestor. So using coax as a control channel will not work.

Any ideas or suggestions on economical ways to do this?

[Sshannon]

48 minutes ago, kidphc said:

I have a Diamond X200a in my attic for 2m/70cm fm operation. Was given a 7 element DIY GMRS Yagi. Which will have to go in the attic also, because of the HOA.

i was investigating remote coax switches to limit the runs of wires going up the side of the house. Don't want the HOA to have a reason to poke around my house and see my bird stoop random wire antenna.

I was planning on mounting a horizontal polarised 3 element 70cm yagi, a 3 element horizontal 2m yagi as well as the GMRS yagi. With a possibility of a fan dipole for hf. 

However, on investigation there aren't many if at all off the shelf remote coax switches that support vhf/uhf/gmrs frequencies. Most are HF or SUHF (silly expensive). Gonna be hard to explain why I have up to 4-7 runs of coax and control wires etc. Going up the side of the house. It's ugly already the way it is with one run of LMR400. Diplexers are kinda out due to the fact that i would need so many of them adding to the cost.

I thought about buying a DIY switch kit on ebay, modifying it to use CX-140D (silly expensive, cost about $300 aprox $70 each just to cover the uhf/vhf ). Really not sure if I have the skills or thought process to do this.

I should mention that the current coax line is DC Blocked at the lightning arrestor. So using coax as a control channel will not work.

Any ideas or suggestions on economical ways to do this?

For the antennas in the attic just run all the wires internally.  You don’t need lightning protection for them and the HOA should never know or care. 

Only run the coax for the HF outside. 

[kidphc]

For the antennas in the attic just run all the wires internally.  You don’t need lightning protection for them and the HOA should never know or care. 
Only run the coax for the HF outside. 

I would. But drilling through 3 floors (2 being hardwood flooring) might make the xyl more upset then the coax. Lol

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[Sshannon]

1 hour ago, kidphc said:

I have a Diamond X200a in my attic for 2m/70cm fm operation. Was given a 7 element DIY GMRS Yagi. Which will have to go in the attic also, because of the HOA.

i was investigating remote coax switches to limit the runs of wires going up the side of the house. Don't want the HOA to have a reason to poke around my house and see my bird stoop random wire antenna.

I was planning on mounting a horizontal polarised 3 element 70cm yagi, a 3 element horizontal 2m yagi as well as the GMRS yagi. With a possibility of a fan dipole for hf. 

However, on investigation there aren't many if at all off the shelf remote coax switches that support vhf/uhf/gmrs frequencies. Most are HF or SUHF (silly expensive). Gonna be hard to explain why I have up to 4-7 runs of coax and control wires etc. Going up the side of the house. It's ugly already the way it is with one run of LMR400. Diplexers are kinda out due to the fact that i would need so many of them adding to the cost.

I thought about buying a DIY switch kit on ebay, modifying it to use CX-140D (silly expensive, cost about $300 aprox $70 each just to cover the uhf/vhf ). Really not sure if I have the skills or thought process to do this.

I should mention that the current coax line is DC Blocked at the lightning arrestor. So using coax as a control channel will not work.

Any ideas or suggestions on economical ways to do this?

For the antennas in the attic just run all the wires internally.  You don’t need lightning protection for them and the HOA should never know or care. 

Only run the coax for the HF outside. 

9 minutes ago, kidphc said:

I would. But drilling through 3 floors (2 being hardwood flooring) might make the xyl more upset then the coax. Lol

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What about one of these surplus coax switches.  Several use SMA or N switches.  Here’s one in particular that only requires 24 vDC to actuate and it latches.

https://www.rfparts.com/switches/switches-coax/062-b37-a1c-4a2-loral-p.html

[kidphc]

What about one of these surplus coax switches.  Several use SMA or N switches.  Here’s one in particular that only requires 24 vDC to actuate and it latches.
https://www.rfparts.com/switches/switches-coax/062-b37-a1c-4a2-loral-p.html

I have been looking at surplus switches on ebay. I would need to figure out the controller as well

It is one of the more viable options.

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[Sshannon]

6 minutes ago, kidphc said:

I have been looking at surplus switches on ebay. I would need to figure out the controller as well

It is one of the more viable options.

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Here’s another that has an attractive price. https://www.rfparts.com/switches/switches-coax/82152-146c70100-8.html

If you don’t get this one I might.  Although I just picked up a Bird manual 718 coax switch that’s just really cool.

Based on the label of another switch you apply voltage to the common terminal and the terminal labeled to match the coax output. Seems straightforward, plus you should be able to find documentation 

[kidphc]

Yeah that is what I figure. They seem to be straight forward. Staring at more that have a db9 or that style connector. Since it will be much easier to source and rig a serial connector to cat6e with a straight patch or simple soldering. With some of these connectors it might be a complete pain to locate.

Been Eye balling this one

Another one I have been looking at. It looks even easier to wire up.

Please feel free to pick up anything you locate. I am still deep in research stage, with a while to go before I even start experimenting.

[Sshannon]

Here’s a schematic for one of the Transco transfer switches.  I like the fact that when it’s unpowered the common defaults to port one.  I would hook that to either a dummy load or ground.

https://www.hamanuals.com/MMans/Transco Switch - Schematic.pdf

[kidphc]

2 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

Here’s a schematic for one of the Transco transfer switches.  I like the fact that when it’s unpowered the common defaults to port one.  I would hook that to either a dummy load or ground.

https://www.hamanuals.com/MMans/Transco Switch - Schematic.pdf

No clue what the difference is between that and a transfer switch. Hell not 100% positive on what they mean when an ad says its a transfer switch. Just kinda figured it was a mechanical latching style switch. Might just be overthinking it. To the point, I also noted most almost all the transfer switch default to port one.

[Sshannon]

13 minutes ago, kidphc said:

Yeah that is what I figure. They seem to be straight forward. Staring at more that have a db9 or that style connector. Since it will be much easier to source and rig a serial connector to cat6e with a straight patch or simple soldering. With some of these connectors it might be a complete pain to locate.

Been Eye balling this one

Another one I have been looking at. It looks even easier to wire up.

Please feel free to pick up anything you locate. I am still deep in research stage, with a while to go before I even start experimenting.

Those both look good.  I’d love to see what’s inside the box.

[kidphc]

1 minute ago, Sshannon said:

Those both look good.  I’d love to see what’s inside the box.

Biggest problem with some of the used gear is finding diagrams to help with pin outs.

[Sshannon]

2 minutes ago, kidphc said:

No clue what the difference is between that and a transfer switch. Hell not 100% positive on what they mean when an ad says its a transfer switch. Just kinda figured it was a mechanical latching style switch. Might just be overthinking it. To the point, I also noted most almost all the transfer switch default to port one.

I think a transfer switch is just another name for a coax switch.  There are also some that are manual but which have power for indication.  It would be a bitch to buy one of them only to find out it isn’t remotely controlled.

[Sshannon]

Just now, kidphc said:

Biggest problem with some of the used gear is finding diagrams to help with pin outs.

Right - I wouldn’t buy one without having something to go by.  

[kidphc]

2 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

Right - I wouldn’t buy one without having something to go by.  

Kinda a big worry. I contacted an Ebay seller of ip addressed wifi remote switches. 

I asked to see if he had anything spec'ed for DC- 800Mhz or so. Keeping fingers crossed.

I guess I was hoping for a diy kit I could modify with different relays so the losses and the cost wouldn't be obnoxious. Either case starting to lean to surplus 12vdc radial (nominal 10vdc-14vdc) coaxial switches. Then i can simply it power it from the power supply of the radio.

Should be an costly learning affair.

[WRUU653]

41 minutes ago, kidphc said:

No clue what the difference is between that and a transfer switch. Hell not 100% positive on what they mean when an ad says its a transfer switch

It just means it transfers one source to another for a common output. 
P.S. I like where you’re heading with this solution.

[kidphc]

1 minute ago, WRUU653 said:

It just means it transfers one source to another for a common output. 
P.S. I like where you’re heading with this solution.

Thanks I guess. lol...

If the Ameritron 8v was rated to more the 250 Mhz. This thread would not exist. Might contact Ameritron to see what the VSWR is like 250 MHZ up from the rated 250 and 1.2. Might be the turn key reasonable priced option I was looking for.

[kidphc]

Sent an e-mail to MFJ about the Ameritron 8v.  I asked if they had any documentation on specs post 250MHz up to 500 MHz.

I did find this information in the manual

• VSWR at all frequencies up to 250 MHz. Only a slight compromise in VSWR occurs at 450 MHz. Power rating is four kilo...

[KAF6045]

3 hours ago, kidphc said:

I was planning on mounting a horizontal polarised 3 element 70cm yagi, a 3 element horizontal 2m yagi as well as the GMRS yagi. With a possibility of a fan dipole for hf. 

Going to have a lot of polarization mismatch losses -- most all 2m/70cm (and GMRS) are vertically polarized signals (mobiles and HTs)

[kidphc]

Going to have a lot of polarization mismatch losses -- most all 2m/70cm (and GMRS) are vertically polarized signals (mobiles and HTs)

The 2m/70cm yagi were for ssb with the ft991a. The x200 was for ht/repeater/ fm work again with the ft991a.

The gmrs yagi is set for vertical
polarization with either a xtl5000 or one of the cdm1250s I have laying around.

Sorry for any confusion.


Got word back from Mfj, not going to work around 500MHz.

The ebay seller said around 450 MHz it is a vswr of 1.5 and climbs fast.

So I guess I am running another lmr400 run. Then saving up for a 2-4 port remote switch for the other yagis, vertical and fan dipole.

Thanks to all for entertaining this thread.

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[tweiss3]

Yea, I was searching last month for a switch that would hold up at 1200MHz. Couldn't find a single one. Well, if I remember, there is an old bird switch that is NLA, but was about $2000. I decided the project would have better results if I just went and ran individual hardlines for what I needed, and either manual switch at the base station, or physically move the coax between radios. 

[kidphc]

Yea, I was searching last month for a switch that would hold up at 1200MHz. Couldn't find a single one. Well, if I remember, there is an old bird switch that is NLA, but was about $2000. I decided the project would have better results if I just went and ran individual hardlines for what I needed, and either manual switch at the base station, or physically move the coax between radios. 

There are spdt and dpdt switches. But then you would have to do everything. They are also very expensive as you get up to shf frequencies. Guess because they are often marketed to cell providers.

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[tweiss3]

Yea. In my case, its more beneficial to run separate lines as I might also include a mast mounted pre-amp for better receive. 

[Sshannon]

11 minutes ago, tweiss3 said:

Yea, I was searching last month for a switch that would hold up at 1200MHz. Couldn't find a single one. Well, if I remember, there is an old bird switch that is NLA, but was about $2000. I decided the project would have better results if I just went and ran individual hardlines for what I needed, and either manual switch at the base station, or physically move the coax between radios. 

The manual Bird coax switches are still available. I just got a 718 and went to the Bird site to learn more about it.  It’s impressive. It physically disconnects two N connectors, one at the common and one at whichever switched port you choose. It appears to be a run of coax internally as well.

[kidphc]

7 minutes ago, tweiss3 said:

Yea. In my case, its more beneficial to run separate lines as I might also include a mast mounted pre-amp for better receive. 

Most definitely.

 

If you ever need Mouser will let you search for a relay that might work. SurplusSales can have stuff that might work as well.

 

[Lscott]

Before spending your money try to track down the data sheet for the switch. Many times you can find it on line. In other cases sending a friendly email off to the company's sales or tech support department might work.

The other thing to look at is the power handling capacity of the switch. A switch you're interested in might be cheap because it won't do more than maybe a few watts.