@AndyOnTheRadio BLUF: I have a unit with the same problem. See bold text below.
I think Amazon has a bad batch of DB25-Gs (or they are all bad CCRs). I have experimented with three (two are on the way back to Amazon) and I do not recommend this model at this point.
Unit 1: The unit continues to show a channel in the “receiving” color for a random amount of time after the incoming transmission has stopped. I was prepared for less than the advertised 25 watts, but this one quickly drops to around 14W while transmitting. Works fine with the CPS and CHIRP. Reseting the unit or flashing to default with the CPS does not make a difference.
Unit 2: Power output is around what I expected (~16-17 watts), but a different bug with this one. The TX Power/Mic Volume display always shows 220-230 for the volume value. It should be 0 if you key the mic with a silent background. The actual transmit audio is fine/good reports from another station. Reseting the unit or flashing to default with the CPS does not make a difference.
Unit 3: Requested as a replacement for one of the above units. Power output is around what I expected (~16-17 watts), but this one has multiple bugs. The unit has an issue communicating with the CPS and CHIRP. Attempting to write with the CPS causes the unit to crash/reboot shortly after the write starts. CHIRP cannot read the unit and shows the “short read of the block 0x0000” error. Connected to a BTECH 30A/13.8V power supply (confirmed output of 13.8v with multimeter) unit shows 12.5V when pressing number 0. Reseting the unit does not make a difference. Writing a full flash of the CPS defaults is not possible. I tried with both the included “junk” programming cable and a BTECH cable.
Other things I have noticed:
1) The supplied programming cable is junk and likely uses counterfeit chips. The driver that installs automatically for Windows 11 will prevent the cable from being used. You can download an old driver, but Windows constantly replaces it (and there isn’t an easy was to stop that on consumer versions of Windows). I bought a BTECH cable that works fine.
2) The CPS defaults are different than the radio “Reset All” defaults.
3) One of the supplied t-connector to 12v outlets had a sloppy t-connector fit. If the t-connector was bumped in the right direction it could lose power.
I like the concept of this radio. CHIRP compatibility was part of my deciding factor over what I think is the more popular and simple DB20. At this point I don’t have any confidence in receiving a radio that doesn’t have issues.