Extreme
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Posts posted by Extreme
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The keypads are interchangeable. Also, they are readily available as replacement parts.
The 880 V1 will program just fine from the same Windows program that works on the V2. You will just get a notification that any V2 only functions will not load into the radio. I have both V1s and 2s and use the same cable, software and data file for both.
Download the service manual, too. It goes into a lot more detail on programming.
Yes, I would recommend getting 1-7 and 15-22 programmed. I would ask for 1-7 as low power, narrow bandwidth, simplex. I use 67 Hz PL TX and RX. This is to make it compatible with the widest range of handheld radios, including cheap, old FRS-only radios.
15-22 I would program as repeater pairs, high power, wide bandwidth, 141.3 Hz PL TX and RX. That gives you the best chance of being able to get into a repeater if you need to.
I would have the buttons programmed as follows: left up/dn = volume. Right up/dn = channel. MON = CSQ toggle. A = TA. B = Scan D/A C and D = group up/dn and SCN = scan.
I would in fact probably put 1-7 in one group, 15-22 in a different group.
So, here's how that works: Unless your group has the PL tones set the same as yours, keep it set to monitor (MON will appear in the display). That allows you to hear all traffic on the channel, regardless of tone or lack thereof.
Keep TA set to on (TA in display). That makes all channels simplex, whether they are set as repeater pairs or simplex.
I would have the scan set to "multi" so it will scan all programmed frequencies as opposed to just the group/bank you are on.
If there is something on a channel that is a nuisance, just press the B button while it is on that channel to lock it out from scan. That function will reset when you cycle the power.
TK-880 can be programmed from the front panel, but first you have to remove a zero ohm resistor and enable that function in software. By default, that function is not available.
I submitted the used-radios spreadsheet to them using ALL your suggestions. They say 1 - 4 days to review and get back to me so will see what they say. Not sure if the front panel programming mod you suggested is available on both the and TK863G so I asked that question in the Notes section of their form. I don't know if that'll be enough to sway me to the 880 (if display programming is not available on TK863G it might make the radio more stupid proof for me - avoid unintended mods).
Also downloaded Service Manuals for both models. Gobs of options in there so I'm sure there'll be a sharp learning curve.
If/when I pull the trigger and do a good install I'll know I went with the good stuff instead of off-the-shelf stuff.
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Funny thing about this whole deal - I know nobody who uses GMRS and my 'group' will consist of family members to whom I hand a HT for trail riding, fishing, hunting, etc. But GMRS could also be handy to monitor others out there, especially hunting, if/when stuff happens, and where there's lots of wide open high desert, and line-of-sight can be 30++ miles.
Montana, where we summer, is a whole different beast, with narrow trails and lots of timber.
I'm leaning toward the 863...
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Hmm.. ebay seller says 863G programming cable is 8-pin. Guess I'll wait to receive the radio to confirm.
used-radios has an XL spreadsheet to fill in with channel programming information. Is there a common standard for GMRS that I can copy or do I need to get all kinda specific with TX/RX Freqs? Again, only access to a few repeaters when I'm traveling out of my local area and then is sketchy cuz I'm deep in the back-country on the Wolverine.
Apologies for all the mundane questions but with all your help I have a greater chance of getting a working system. (Next up is the "Best HT" search.)
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used-radios.com tells me the 863 is a newer radio than the 880, that "the buttons will last longer" and it has a few more options/features.. maybe features I might not need.
880 V1.0 is DOS programming only.
880 Firmware V2.0 is Windows.
863 is Windows only.
880 programs from display (youtube) - 863 does not. Probably a non-issue if the Windows programming is EZ.
Should I just get the standard GMRS 1 - 7 and 15 - 22 pre-programmed? Any other whistles I should ask for?
I'll get the cable and software just to have.. I do like to tinker with my toys. Anyone have a link to both (I know, SEARCH). I have found the Owner's Manuals online so no one will have to tell me to RTFOM! Maybe.
Thanks folks!
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TK880 or TK863?
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New quandary. I've been cruising/surfing to make a choice on which Kenwood to buy. Most info is from here, some from used-radios.com
Kenwood TK880
Kenwood TK863G
The 880 seems to have most mentions. Prices seem to be within $10 or so. What are the differences please? The more I learn, the more I don't know...
but I'm thinking 25W should be plenty of oomph for mobile (non-repeater) use in the mountains.
Thanks again folks.
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I haven't dealt with them, but they look reasonable.
I'll extend the same offer to you on the M1225, since gman1971 isn't interested. It's the 40 watt 20 channel version, pre-programmed with gmrs channels, and I'll throw in the programming cable. All for less than used-radios dot com has them listed without the cable.
Did the deal get done?
Looked at M1225, 20Ch at $135 and Kenwood TK-863G, 256Ch at $95 on usedradios.com. They seemed to think the Motorola was more than I need.
Use will be mobile to HT, little if any repeater use.
Is one much "better" than the other?
I've pretty much put Midland out of the picture.
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If you can get the antenna mount with a shorter cable, I'd buy it. But, the loss from an extra 16 feet of cable is only 1.6db. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
One other thing. NMO is a specification for an antenna mount - the juncture between the antenna and the post it will mount on. It is not a cable connector. So, what you want is an NMO mount with 1 foot cable terminated with an RG58. Just ask the Antenna Farm if they can chop 16 feet off your cable and solder on a new connector. But, Is the antenna really only < 1 foot from the antenna?
No, I need 6 - 8 ft. of cable from antenna to radio. I'm not worried about the loss but I don't want to roll up a bunch of unneeded cable in the side-by-side.
Will contact the Farm for custom stuff.
Thanks.
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Great stuff guys. And an education for offroad stuff to consider. There are few if any repeaters where I ride so the unity gain sounds like the ticket. That means I can go with 6" 1/4 wave for all the reasons you guys list. Typically layman of me to think a taller antenna MUST have better range and performance than a tiny 6".. lol.
The NMO connector you list has 17' of RG58 when I need only 6 - 8' and don't want to coil any extra. Hence the attempt to get a custom built cable. Still working on that at the Antenna Farm. Not finding an option for NMO on one end and 259 on the other. There is this:
https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/pctel-maxrad-mtpm-1157
and I could get my custom length cable with PL259 on both ends, eh?
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You don’t need sheet metal. That ultra-sticky aluminum HVAC tape fastened to the underside of roof works well. Just use an NMO mount that has teeth on the inside mount that will bite into the tape. That will give a decent rf ground through the coax to the body of the radio. You don’t need a complete circle either. Just an X or * of about 13” diameter is fine. We did a lot to fiberglassed roofs on ambulances and RV’s. . You’ll find the tape at any hardware or home improvement store.
Another possibility, if there’s a headliner under the non-conductive roof, is to fasten steel or aluminum window screen or even chicken wire to the underside of the roof.
If I doing a UTV like yours, I’d use a 6” quarter wave UHF antenna with the HVAC tape ground plane. It’s small enough to survive most tree branch problems, can be easily straightened if bent, and $10 each, you can keep a spare or two in your tool box for peace of mind. Add a commercial grade radio like the Motorola M1225 properly installed and shock mounted, and you’ve got a nearly bulletproof rig.
It's a double layer plastic roof with a gap in between. Need the antenna off to one side to stay away from the kayak when loaded.
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Looking through Antenna Farm and find options for Custom cable to go with the 1/2 wave antenna suggested.
7' of Belden 8219 Standard RG58 coax
2 Amphenol 082-5375-RFX (N Male) RG-259
Shrink wrapped.
PCTEL Maxrad MUF4502S
All for $63 and change.
Would combo this with a reman Kenwood TK83G from used-radios.com.
Programmed CH. 1 - 6 and 15 - 22
Right track?
Maaannnn... I'm a pest! But, if I get it right the first time..
All good food for thought.
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This looks like a good choice for your application: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/pctel-maxrad-muf4502s-8347
A 1/4 wave off either the vertical rollbar or kayak rack will be fine, too. If you go that route, just make sure the radiator is not too close to or obstructed by the rollbar. Have you seen Jeeps with CB antennas mounted on the back? They certainly don't have actual ground planes. The equivalent of a 12 inch diameter piece of metal under a GMRS antenna would, on CB, be 17 feet in diameter. Yet those antennas are still usable with 4 watts output and no real ground plane.
Have you seen Jeeps with CB antennas mounted on the back? Yup, I have a CB antenna mounted just like that on my Jeep. Have it on a quick disco and swap between 4' fiberglass and 1/4 wave whip. Haven't used it tho' so have no idea the range or quality.. go figure.
Thinking this rollbar mount (or similar) suggested by a member.
https://www.amazon.com/LAMPHUS-Off-Road-Vertical-Mounting-User-Friendly/dp/B0753YM3VX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=LAMPHUS+Cruizer+LED+Off-Road+Light+Vertical+Bar+Clamp+Mounting+Kit+1%22%2F+1.5%22%2F+1.75%22%2F+2%22+%5B2+Clamps%5D+%5BIncludes+Allen+Hex+Key%5D+%5BUser-Friendly%5D+-+for+Light+Bar+Bull+Bar+Tube+Clamp+Roof+Roll+Cage+Holder&qid=1578526050&sr=8-1Might have to drill it out for the NMO, but that's ok to get to bare metal, and an NMO mount for 3/4" thickness.
Maybe I'll figure out a way to get a 12" square of sheet metal integrated under whatever mount I end up with so I will have a ground plane, if it doesn't work as well as I hope with the 12.5" unity antenna.
Thanks for the feedback..
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I have no ground plane available. Plastic roof on UTV. Options are vertical rollbar antenna mount or a NMO mounting bracket off the steel kayak rack.
Or I'll just get a couple decent HH and call it a day.
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Now for the antenna:
If a 32" antenna is 1/2 wave (450 - 470 Mhz) does that make a 15" 1/4 wave?
Is 1/4 wave ideal? And which affects range most - antenna length or wavelength?
The Kenwood is 25W so a maximum of 3db gain antenna to stay within 50W regulation on mobile radio?
in a mobile application (UTV, no ground plane). Planning to mound on the side of the steel kayak roof rack or possibly on a vertical roll bar.
You guys have already been a lot of help. Thanks for the guidance.
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Do I need only 22 for GMRS? Don't most GMRS specific radios (Midland, etc) have sub-channels? As you can tell I'm new to the format.
Thanks.
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Copy/Paste from Equipment Reviews thread. Thought I'd consolidate my endless questions to keep me on track. Thanks for input and patience.
Searched and found a little bit..
Application: Mobile radio for UTV
Had been thinking Midland MTX115 for my side by side but reading here that they're not that highly regarded so while looking online for a used Motorola M1225 (recommended here) I came across Kenwood TK863G here:
https://used-radios....price-ascending
The page if FULL of what look to be good radios in the correct 450-490-ish range.
Recommendations?
I know I don't want to get stuck on some kind of search for programming, cables, etc. Just going for offroad use, seldom repeater access.
Wow!
Edit/Add. They will program 16 channels free, 6 additional for $25 to total 22. That cover all the GMRS spectrum correct?
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Searched and found a little bit..
Application: Mobile radio for UTV
Had been thinking Midland MTX115 for my side by side but reading here that they're not that highly regarded so while looking online for a used Motorola M1225 (recommended here) I came across Kenwood TK863G here:
https://used-radios.com/collections/mobiles?sort_by=price-ascending
The page if FULL of what look to be good radios in the correct 450-490-ish range.
Recommendations?
I know I don't want to get stuck on some kind of search for programming, cables, etc. Just going for offroad use, seldom repeater access.
Wow!
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You'll need a good ground plane for the antenna, The roll bar should have a good connection to the frame and the mount will also need a good electrical connection to the roll bar. Probably the best mount would use holes drilled and tapped into the bar with star washer between the mount and bar.
The "electrical connection" you're talking about is ground, correct? So I need to get bare metal to bare metal contact either by mount to bar connection or run a wire to a screw on the bar or frame?
I'll be using a non-ground plane antenna. I'm considering this:
mounted to a RotoPax mount similar to what quarterwave posted:
https://afxmotorspor...4IaAqCFEALw_wcB
All in combo with this antenna:
(or a 12.5" version https://www.arcantenna.com/laird-bb4502n-12-5-inch-uhf-whip-antenna-with-black-nmo-base-450-470-mhz.html)
and:
I'll probably get the Midland MXT115 (and a couple HH units) unless I find something superior for not a lot of money. I'm not interested in programming or used equipment and trying to keep size minimal for mounting purposes. Usage will be 90% rig-rig offroad comm. There are very few (and far between) repeaters out West where I ride most.
Critique welcome and encouraged (with suggestions maybe).
Also just noticed the new radio posted on this site.
Outperform the Midland HH??
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Looking for an antenna mount that will bolt onto a vertical 2" UTV rollbar.
Wondering if this will work but unsure if it's 2" wide for 'U-bolt"?
Antenna Bar Mount
in Equipment Reviews
Posted
Thinking I'll attach an aluminum (bolt) or steel (weld) 1.5 - 2" angle iron about 13" long to the kayak rack and drill a hole for NMO and antenna. Should provide a decent ground plane for the quarterwave antenna.