tweiss3

Depends on the exact settings, but typically: CHIRP Repeater List by tweiss3, on Flickr Chirp Repeater Detail copy by tweiss3, on Flickr Skip is only if you don't want to scan that specific repeater channel.

If you space the antennas 18-24 inches apart, and run legal power, you shouldn't have an issue. I have both CB and UHF/GMRS in my car.

Must be a local thing. Listening to our local club nets they are pretty laid back. Last night there was only about 5 of the 35 check-ins that used the phonetic alphabet. I wouldn't worry about it on GMRS, and if a ham guy can hear you well enough to complain about the phonetic alphabet you use, well, your message got across anyways.

You probably aren't going to find much random chatter you can join in on. Unlike HAM, GMRS is consider commercial and is usually a a specific user to specific user.

While true, I've found that most do still identify every 15 around here.

If its not listed, you may have a hard time finding one if it's there. You could spend some time listening to channels 15-22, and if the repeater is set up correctly, it should identify itself every 15 minutes, usually by Morse Code, but could use plain spoken English. This identifier should be the owner's call sign, which you could identify and attempt to contact the owner. Please do NOT go up to the owner's door and knock, that's just rude.

Could you possibly have a tone set for the receive frequency? Midlands won't let you separate send and receive tones.

Finally mounted the head permanently. Final Head Location by tweiss3, on Flickr Drivers View by tweiss3, on Flickr

I'm not so much worried about diminishing returns, I just want to make sure if I don't trim, that it doesn't affect performance.

I was thinking a mobile conversion like such: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-mbc-1649. Maybe get a dual band, or just stick with a 1/4 wave whip. I'll have to pull out the VNA again and do some seaching. I'm not going to touch HF, in fact, if it weren't for more nets being on the VHF repeaters than the UHF, I'd stick with UHF only. Still at 50W max. Another quick question will having oversized ground radials hurt overall performance? It doesn't seem to on a car when the whole car is the ground plane/radial.

The only wiring in my attic is shielded CAT6 for my POE camera system. Roof is new asphalt shingle (replaced 2 years ago). All wire would be kept inside the house, as this antenna would be going almost right above my office. Wouldn't a proper ground plane/radial set keep the radiation from a downward trajectory and impacting the house?

You are right that part 90 radios are technically not listed specifically approved for GMRS. I was talking about a Part 90 certified radio, not an off the shelf ham that isn't certified. Your's is Part 95, and 100% acceptable for GMRS: https://fccid.io/ALH29473110 There is not a restriction, that im aware of, on using Part 90/95 equipment in the ham bands.

@marcspaz, don't you have a bunch of attic antennas? What's the lightening risk for an antenna in the attic? I apparently are beyond deficient electrically in my house (60+ years old, original panel and no grounding).

The plan is to buy a CS800D which will do all Ham and GMRS in one, so I'm trying to few away with a single antenna. Mount is probably going to be this: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/rohn-heavy-duty-wall-mount-kits-8449 800MHz will be monitor only, so I'm sure any antenna will be better than nothing in that aspect.

As seen before, I don't have a clue with antennas. I did get the cars figured out, but there isn't nearly as much option with the NMO antennas. I'm looking to bite the bullet and just get a base station for my office at home. I definitely need to keep GMRS, but want to add the Ham stuff, and listening to public works 800MHz. That being said, I may have an easy time with zoning, because I think they wrote an exception in the code for amateur radio (email response waiting). I'm starting my window shopping in hopes for a good Christmas. My house is a split level with dual peak. I want to install the antenna off the higher peak, and pass into the attic under the eave. Challenge 1: I'm confused on what type of antenna. I know I don't want a yagi. Do I want a fiberglass amateur base station antenna, or a discone base station? I'd like the VHF/UHF and GMRS bands at a minimum, and good radiation pattern. This will be "roof" mounted, on the side at the peak, on a pole (probably 10'+-). https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/diamond-x6000a-4879 vs https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/comet-cx-333-1076 vs https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/diamond-d3000n-5695 Challenge 2: What else do I need to look into? I was thinking grounding the support pole all the way to the ground and using a 10 grounding rod. I was also going to connect it (antenna)-(cable)-(multi strike under eave)-(cable through attic to office). https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/coax-cable-accessories-627/lightning-protection-628/multi-strike-50-ohm-629/20-1990-mhz-with-n-connector-635/ I'm looking for just 1 antenna at this time as I ease my way into this and DMR. Thanks for all the help.

That's a nice option. I keep seeing those pop up when looking at other people's mobile shacks.

Yea, I can program from 327 MHz to 550 MHz in KPG-79D (with it yelling at me out of range). Any further outside of that it doesn't keep the frequency. Many agencies around here are still on UHF and have not made the jump to 800, though Ohio MARCS is getting them one by one. I programmed it in a way that makes sense to me: Zone 1 - GMRS: CH1-7, CH15-22, RPT15-22 CSQ, Known Repeaters Zone 2 - County 1: Local Hospitals, County Jail, Malls, School Districts, County Highway Engineer Zone 3 - County 2: Local Hospitals, County Fire, Twp Fire, City Fire, City PD, Twp PD, School Districts Zone 4 - County 3: County Engineer, RTA, Local Schools, Local Traffic Reports, News Station Ops Zone 5 - GMRS Travel: RPT15-22 141.3PL wideband, RPT15-22 141.3PL narrowband Everything non GMRS has no TX frequency even programmed. Got to keep the wife out of trouble. Ends up just shy of completely full. I still have been using the BF-F8HP for VHF scanning (quite a bit of that around here too). I did set myself a hard deadline. I found a local Laural sponsored test session (free) on July 9th, so I'm taking it. As for digital/DMR, the AT-D578UVPRO is part 90 certified. It's brother, the AT-D578UVIIIPRO is Part 15 certified and has 220 capabilities in it. From what I have read, the hardware is identical just a different sticker and firmware. Any say on 220? Would it be used often?

I usually get 25 or so correct, when 26 is passing. I did just get 27, I should have gone Saturday, but I already had people lined up to help me clean the garage. Next testing date I'm going to just go.

I've taken about 6 online practice tests without studying and fall a few correct short from passing. Unfortunately there was a group testing this past Saturday that I didn't find out till Friday. I should have just gone and tested, but didn't feel like wasting $15. The even allow retests after everyone has gone, and up-testing. I need to keep an eye on the next available date. DMR is screaming my name, I'm a glutton for projects that can never be finished and always tweaked.

I don't have a cap yet, but i can reach it by standing on the rear bumper without an issue. I need to pick up a cap, it will probably be part of my next order. My wife called on her way to work yesterday, first thing she said was "I can't even see the wires or anything." That's a good sign, she was worried it would be a half butt install. Talking to her this morning after I dropped the kids off, she mentioned that I have to show her how to work it, which means she is not opposed to learning. I'd say its a double win. Now I just have to find time to study for my technician exam, because I definitely want to get that taken and put behind me soon. I don't do well with tests.

Well, I just finished. Ended up cleaning the garage yesterday, and was too tired to attempt today. I set the antenna 12" from edge of the back of the roof sheet metal. Routed the antenna cable down the D pillar, which keeps all the wire away from the airbags. Antenna is almost invisible, and I can still get drywall on the top. Also, I didn't have to move a roof rack bar. Antenna Installed by tweiss3, on Flickr Invisible Antenna by tweiss3, on Flickr Antenna Location by tweiss3, on Flickr Nobody is ever going to see or notice it. It fits right along the satnav receiver and the FM antenna. I hid the receiver in the access panel where the jack is. Still have full access to the jack. Radio Hiding Spot by tweiss3, on Flickr Mounted Radio Hiding Spot by tweiss3, on Flickr Routed the remote head wire up the D pillar and down the center of the roof, came out in the overhead shelf where it will be permanently mounted. Still waiting on the bracket, should be here Tuesday. Remote Head Placement by tweiss3, on Flickr Programmed it, and all works well. Wife is ok with it as long as it looks good. She recommended the head location. I like it because you can't see it though the window and won't give someone a reason to break in. Now to get her comfortable with using it.

This is the information on Line A: https://www.fcc.gov/engineering-technology/electromagnetic-compatibility-division/frequency-coordination-canada-below Funny, the line is only a few hundred feet from going directly through my house.

No, the drill bit I'm talking about is a metal working drill bit, for my drill press, not to ever be used on wood. For just shy of $12, I will have that dewalt bit here tomorrow. I was more worried about not having it tomorrow/this weekend. Stores around here are a bit of a pain in the ass to get anything at. Cross bars are 3-3.5" from top of roof to top of bars. Antenna is 6", so I'm not so much worried about overhead clearance. Antenna will stick up over crossbars, but will still be hidden. I'm going to drill a 1/8" pilot hole after I use the punch. I will be slightly dropping the headliner, figuring out where the cross member is, then go slow. Wife gave the "ok" to install a radio in her car, as long as it looks good. She doesn't know yet I'm drilling the roof. She won't ever see it, so as long as the kids don't rat me out, she will never know. The comet lip mount will be kept for "road trip CB" usage when I toss a CB in the car temporarily for vacation.

The comet mount came yesterday, and I'm rethinking not drilling. Interference when its open, and placing the antenna in front of the 3rd brake light. In the above #2 location, am I to assume that is just in front of the rear cross member, where the headliner dips back up? Is drilling as easy as this: http://www.satstar.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=Z7UO3B-qIjc%3D&portalid=4 Do I need a hole saw bit, or will my nice machine drill bits work? I have a 3/4" traditional bit. Anything else I need to know, keep in mind, get for the install? For dielectric grease, just any old automotive dielectric grease will work? Do I need to move the roof rack bar from the antenna 6"+? Thanks,

So it was difficult to track down, but I finally got manual information from Ford. UHF is ok in location 1&2, but im assuming this is for drilling only. Will I have an issue hanging it from the rear hatch using a lip mount? Annotation 2020-06-03 160214(2) by tweiss3, on Flickr Annotation 2020-06-03 160214 by tweiss3, on Flickr Or do I just need to do a "wait n see" and drill if I have issues?