tweiss3

Yea, there is a great writeup by hamVOIP: https://hamvoip.org/howto/AutoSky_howto.pdf I'm not sure if there are enough differences for there to be issues with your image. I also use supermon to manage the node, instead of DTMF commands.

The basic items you need are: A good antenna Feed line & grounding Repeater, look up surplus Motorola Quantar, though you will have to likely turn them down to 50w Power I suggest reading this thread:

I agree with above assessment, retransmission of the NOAA announcement is not permitted, however, brief weather alerts are. I am only familiar with the hamVOIP asterisk controller image since that's what I built my Allstar node with, but it allows "weather alerts" to be used. All it does is announce "Winter Storm Warning" (or whatever the warning is) after the repeater identification. There are protections so that alert, along with your repeater identification, are not transmitted over the link.

For what it's worth, last night I turned my IC-7300 to 27.185 AM and it does receive CB well. I think any real HF radio will tune to CB for listening without an issue.

I can see how the head would be tough to mount, didn't think of that. The 891 might be your best bet, plus the ATAS-120A is only $400 to get 40m-6m vs the Icom's price of $2100. Plus the 891 is on sale for only $600. I only mentioned MARS mod because you are in 11m. My 817ND is MARS, but I never tried to even listen out of band, I bought it used with the mod, it was not the reason for the purchse. As for $$, my wife hasn't noticed my upgrade from a FT-45D to the IC-7300, not that she cares. She rarely comments on my radio purchases. I did probe the waters about putting up a flag pole antenna to gain 160m, and she asked the other day when I was going to install her flag pole. Ultimate plan is to put the 450 on the vertical and keep the 7300 on the EFHW. Yea, you are going to have to find some billet mount, as the moment of that hamstick is huge. You may want to look at the breedlove mounts, and perhaps do a hood mount NMO and just drill the hole. Can always put a rain cap on it.

I do love my IC-7300. If I was looking to go HF in the car, the IC-7100 would likely be in the picture, with the AH740 antenna ($2100, ouch), but it only covers 80m-10m and is 75" without a mount. There is a Mars Mod (http://www.472khz.org/media/IC_7100mod.pdf) that could get you 11m, not that I'm in to that. I like the 705 idea, but why not get a full powered "mobile" rig for much less. As for C4M, I haven't messed with it, but I don't care for the "nearby repeater" feature of my Kenwood D74, but it's phenomenal for APRS.

Do you have any photos of the Fox Delta unit? Now that you have it installed, all the photos I've seen are kind of vague.

That is a very nice looking mount that you made. Your review of the radio leaves a lot to be desired though. For the price though you're probably in the ballpark of ideal. Everyone I know that has used the ham sticks say they bend after about 3 months of wind and gravity. Does the Yaesu 400 decode aprs without having to connect to the TNC?

Looking for the mix of both the lowest Smith (impedance) and SWR, but you can always improve the match if you get good swr by adding a capacitor to bridge the antenna and ground (shield).

I just looked back, I used MMANA-GAL Free. I was wondering how my patter changed on my EFHW with sag as it was actually installed in the field: https://1drv.ms/b/s!AmNCKj05x9hYgf5PCTQOZ_HD_zUvkg?e=jcTW11 I did not put in information for the matching transformer, so the SWR did not calculate, but there are places to put that in.

I would suggest modeling the antenna in 4NEC2, but you would have to know the information about the base coil, like capacitance. It would get you an idea of the resonance and the radiation pattern. I can't remember if it will tell you the SWR or not. It has been a while since I dabbled in that. What about buying a screwdriver antenna, or something like the Yaesu ATAS-120A?

Yea, like most radios, you can only set the power according to the factory pre-sets (H/L/EL/etc...).

I thought this was a done deal a long time ago. All the testing locations here require the FRN only.

Just wait till you decide you want to get into scanners or ham radio. $600+ scanners with NMO antenna in each car along with dual band Part 90 radios, plus a QRP radio for HF on the go......... this year has not been good to my wallet.

Motorola Solutions is HQ in Chicago, built overseas JVC Kenwood is HQ in Long Beach, CA, built in Japan All are the same, Alinco is CA, Btech is KS, Midland is KC, but none are manufactured here.

Everything is made overseas, but may have USA offices. The Japanese stuff is superior to the Chinese made stuff. Stick with brands that support public safety (LEO & FD) like Motorola and Kenwood if you want things to last and put up with the abuse. There are kenwoods running right now that use a DOS programming software.... that old.

Check this install, he always does a great job: https://forums.radioreference.com/threads/2020-chevy-silverado-install.410995/

Very interesting. I wonder if your shielding fabric on the cable will help.

Isn't the 6666 FM only? Kinda missing the point of modding for 11m, right?

https://www.tinysa.org/wiki/ Its like the NanoVNA, but its a spectrum analyzer. I have one, and its a pretty neat tool. You can buy it from R&L: http://www.randl.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=75243&osCsid=ds1r4m541l1jqb3o0g37bvcoi7

No, removing the antenna just means the radio is receiving the signal, and it's not due to a direct contact on the coax. If you had a TinySA, you could remove the antenna from the receive port and start getting it closer to spots around/on the head unit to see where the signal is radiating from.

You need the Kenwood software KPG-99D (v1.55), which works on windows 7 and 10. The cable needs to be an FTDI USB to RJ-45 8 pin cable, look up bluemax49er on ebay, that's where I got mine.

I've never heard of them, but the reviews on eHam are pretty good: https://www.eham.net/reviews/view-product?id=7842 For $65 and a weekend project the SWM3-1018 doesn't seem like a looser by any means.

If it is a common mode RF, all the grounding you did of the radio may be feeding RF into the chassis.

It appears that radio has a iDatalink which is a CAN bus link to the OEM body controls and information. See if you can turn that off completely.