
VETCOMMS
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Thx guys. I think my Scotch 2228 tape will work good but need to double check that Scotch 700 as I'm not sure it's UV resistant.
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Just curious how others wrap their antenna coax connectors. I was going to use the 2228 moisture sealing electrical tape installed with sticky side up (is that called a courtesy wrap?). Start it below the coax connector for the antenna, continue above the connector and then turn it sticky side down and come back down the coax and end the tape below the antenna connector. Second layer would be the Scotch 700 vinyl electrical tape applied over the moisture sealing 2228 tape starting below antenna connector and proceeding the same way as what I did with the first layer. How do others wrap/ waterproof/weatherproof their antenna connectors?
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What do you mean about "any of that mess"? The drip loop? I'm thinking 5 db gain when only 30 feet AGL as I'm in a river valley backed up to a bluff i cannot get over. Db404-b, Laird FG-4503 come to mind because they're not 10 feet long.
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Common sense isn't always common with me! I'll do a bit more reading on the antenna instructions and go from there. Thanks guys.
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I checked the swr with the drip loop and was over 2.0 so will undo the loop and see what I get.
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Understood. I'm am trying to locate a db404-b that's used because it's 5 feet long. Some of the comets I've seen are 10 feet long but I'm looking for an antenna with a lower profile. I'm learning and playing around with this at my home as it's a hobby, before I invest more with the intention of hopefully finding a location high over the bluff behind my house. This stuff is easier to tinker with close to home and close to the ground. Thx for everyone's help
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I guess i never looked at what he recommended but then again look at my bad tape job! https://edsantennas.weebly.com/ UHF (perfect for GMRS) +5dB Gain Antenna – US patent 8,947,313 +5dB gain no radial collinear – featured in CQ magazine (Summer 2012) $65 (requires 37 inches of 3/4 inch 200 psi pvc pipe - Lowe's item
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It's an ed fong gmrs antenna. I tried double wrapping the connection with 2 waterproof tapes and learned it's hard to do with the antenna already mounted to the mast. I'd like to clean the connection point up, raise it 10 feet and get a polyphaser on the house/ garage for protection.
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Silly question. Is this coax good enough for a hobby house repeater? https://abrind.com/cable-overview-abr400-uf-pn25400f/ I see it has a 2.5" bend radius. I assume that's the distance across my drip loop that I need to be mindful of with bend radius?
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Would desense cause this after a flat pack duplexer was tuned?
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Question on the vxr-7000. I plan to have channel 1 as my repeater frequency pair. For channel 2 I was going to program it for a repeater in the area with a different frequency pair. When programming it do I select duplex and then when I try talking to that repeater, simply make sure the unit is in base station mode?
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I cleared the tones on the repeater and on my HT and when I transmit the HT the busy light on the repeater lights up but I cannot hear my voice in the repeater and no squelch tail or courtesy blip was heard.
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I recently received this desk microphone that was used on a vertex mobile radio. Would this work if I used it on my vxr-7000u repeater? I wanted to confirm before using it. Also, where can I get another mic, either desk or handheld, to use for my repeater? Made in USA preferred.
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I recently had the internal Sinclair duplexer tuned at a Motorola dealer. I noticed after reinstalling the repeater would do one of two things. It would not respond when an HT or a mobile radio was keyed up with the appropriate tones. If I turned the repeater off and back on again the repeater would work for a while but when left idle for a while with no keying of the repeater it would again, not respond when an HT or mobile radio was keyed up. The other thing it did was a buzzing sound I'd never heard before I had the duplexer tuned. I'm not sure if I can upload a video but will attempt to. 20241009_195542.mp4
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I'll go back and look at your link as I don't plan on doing a lot of this. After previous discussion I've learned of I'm doing 30-50 foot runs then LMR400 is likely more than adequate. I agree, I don't want to spend a lot on specialized tools if I can use less expensive handyman tools! I enjoy learning how to do this in the chance I can get onto a tower and "do it right." Otherwise, what's the best way to sell this hardline? What's the going rate?
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I noticed the coax says Type LDF5 so I assume i need a tool or tools specifically for that type of coax? Do I need one tool for stripping/preparation of the coax and another to attach the N-type connectors to each end? I saw this but not sure it'd work for my type of hardline? https://youtu.be/0SkOsM0FfuA?feature=shared
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Finally got to the shed and thought I'd share the pics of the hardline. Looks like i have Andrews 7/8 Heliax. The NanoVNA showed and an adapter kit so next I'm hoping to learn how to put the N-type connectors on.
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I was told it was approximately 80 feet long. I have it stored in a shed and once I get a chance I'll unroll it, take pics of it and get more pictures/ info on here. Thank you for the reminder that short runs don't require hardline. I know there is no right answer but what do folks here like for 30 -50 foot runs, LMR400? Heliax?
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I separated the connector with pic to follow. I received a NanoVNA yesterday and have yet to unbox it. I also have a cheap needle style multimeter. I will need to look at the label/ print on the hardline when I get it out of the shed. It's all about learning, right? Thanks for being willing to help. I need to find a local Elmer
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Forgive me for my lack of knowledge but where do I get the adapters to go from the sma connectors to the n type connectors or any other connector typically found on coax/antennas? I don't even know what they're called. Is it a matter of calling Gigaparts or another amateur radio online store?
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OK thx. If i buy one of these Nano vna units off Amazon, will I need to buy additional coax/adapters to test the hardline and antennas? I appreciate the help as this is all learning for me!
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Great, thank you for that. Do the connectors need to match the brand of hardline? I need to see what brand it is still. Also, I understand every installation is unique, but are there pigtails of smaller diameter coax that people will use to allow for a smaller hole to be made in the building housing the repeater and to make connecting to the repeater easier? Is a similar technique used on the antenna end to allow for drip loops? What type of coax/ connectors is used for these pigtails (not sure what the proper term is).
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I have this end, I assume it's what people call an N connector? Says Andrew L5NF on it. Is there a video that describes how to put the terminations on the hardline? How do you terminate at the antenna vs at the repeater?
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OK thx for the help/ video. What are normal readings? How do I know if the hardline has a problem?