Citizen Posted September 5, 2020 Report Posted September 5, 2020 Question for homeowners with GMRS base-stations: To run the antenna cable to the roof or attic, do you make a wall penetration through the sheetrock, so to hide the cables inside interior walls? If so, do you not also have to drill through the wall top plate (typically double 2x4's)? Or do you drill a hole in an exterior wall so to run the cable outside, then up the side of the building to the roof? Not pretty, but would work with additional cable length Ether way, you would end up with a rough hole in the wall where the cable enters living space wherever the base-station is. Builder's Square website does show possible wall clean-up solutions using interior finishing plates for low-voltage cables. How best would you solve this? Pictures would be helpful. Thanks ... Quote
berkinet Posted September 5, 2020 Report Posted September 5, 2020 As long as you avoid sharp bends, you can route the coax any way you choose. If you decide to route the coax inside the wall, you will have to drill the top plate and probably 1 or 2 horizontal fire blocks. There are long drill bits available for this. Going straight through the wall is easier, but can cause spousal issues. if you do go that route, be sure to make a drip loop if the coax will be exposed to moisture. BTW, if it is a relatively short run, say under 20 feet or so, you may wish to use a thinner coax. That would be much easier on the drilling bending etc. Quote
WRAK968 Posted September 5, 2020 Report Posted September 5, 2020 Heres what I did, (Ill leave a shopping list below)I went to home depot and picked up a single gang old works box, a wire pass through cover, a jab saw (If you dont have one), exterior silicone (Not needed if your exiting through an eve) and a drill bit a little larger than the connectors on your coax (I would use a self driving auger bit, makes quick work of the project). After determining where I planned to mount the radios (Ham sorry lol) I used a magnet to find where the wall studs were. (The magnet is attracted to the metal screws used to hold up the drywall) Then I went into the attic to make sure I could access where I needed to drill a hole in the header. Once I had all that figured out I chose where I wanted to run the coax.(Be sure to avoid electrical and water lines.) Using a level to keep the box level, I marked out around the outside of the box. I then used a jab saw to cut out the hole. I then drilled a hole in the top of the old works box to accept the coax when ready. Don't install the box yet, its easier to run the coax down the wall first.I then returned to the attic and determined where I needed to drill to drop the coax down into the wall bay. I used the auger bit which took maybe 30-40 seconds to drill through 3" of wood. I then dropped the coax down into the wall bay. Returning to the install location, the hole for the box was big enough to stick my hand into and grab the coax, however the old hanger trick works fine as well. Pull out enough coax to reach the radio, + an extra foot or so. Route the coax through the top of the box, then push the box, top first into the hole. Tighten both screws to mount the box firmly to the wall, then route the coax through the wire passthrough and install the plate. Congrats, downstairs is done!Return to the attic and determine where you'll run the coax through to outside. If your near an eve, your better off passing it through there as its easier to waterproof. If you need to run through a wall, make sure there wont be any rain or high humidity for the next couple of days as to allow the silicone to cure. Route the coax up to the antennas mounting location, being sure to leave a few inches loose for expansion and contraction due to temperature fluctuation. If need be, use zip ties or plastic pipe clamps to secure the coax in place.Youll need: Old Works Box or bracket: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916A pass through plate: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zenith-Brush-Pass-Through-Wall-Plate-White-VWPTBRW/310551912 To make the job easier:Jab Saw: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-6-25-in-Jab-Saw-with-Wood-Handle-15-206/100654908Auger Bit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-4-in-x-6-in-Ship-Auger-Bit-48-13-0753/202256100 Quote
WRAK968 Posted September 5, 2020 Report Posted September 5, 2020 As long as you avoid sharp bends, you can route the coax any way you choose. If you decide to route the coax inside the wall, you will have to drill the top plate and probably 1 or 2 horizontal fire blocks. There are long drill bits available for this. Going straight through the wall is easier, but can cause spousal issues. if you do go that route, be sure to make a drip loop if the coax will be exposed to moisture. BTW, if it is a relatively short run, say under 20 feet or so, you may wish to use a thinner coax. That would be much easier on the drilling bending etc.I always forget those stupid things since my place doesnt have them LOL. To add onto my post, if needed, you may need an extension rod for the drill bit. Quote
berkinet Posted September 5, 2020 Report Posted September 5, 2020 I always forget those stupid things since my place doesnt have them LOL... For others who may not be familiar with fire blocking in a frame wall... The intent is to prevent a fire from moving vertically between two studs. Quote
Citizen Posted September 5, 2020 Author Report Posted September 5, 2020 Great info and write-up, thank you both very much! (I had searched for this topic before posting the question, but didn't see anything on the subject, maybe just didn't do it right). I will get going on this in the next week or so, and report back. Thanks again! ... Quote
BoxCar Posted September 5, 2020 Report Posted September 5, 2020 One thing that wasn't mentioned. Your local codes may require the penetration to be fire stopped. That may mean you need metal pipe or conduit where you go through the wall. All fire codes require a penetration of an interior firewall be fire stopped. Quote
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