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One for a go box and one for the car or one for the house, etc. You can never have too many radios.

If I'm unwilling to put WiFi into my show why would I put Starlink in? I use my phone as a hotspot while I'm there. As soon as I leave no more internet. And since I'm there I could just flip the power switch.

Starlink...

Hello All! New to GMRS and having a blast learning and getting gear together. I recently did a install on Gen 3 Tacoma and I am getting a SWR of 1.75. Below is my build. Looking for some suggestions on how to get the SWR a bit lower, or being what it is, maybe just accept the 1.75 and call it good. Appreciate all suggestions! Equipment Utilized: Btech GMRS50-Pro - https://baofengtech.com/product/gmrs-50pro/ Midland MXTA24 NMO - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0842B1WFS MIdland MXTA26 Antenna - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084BPXNC5 Ditch Light Bracket - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FG7P4DWY With a 3/8" Stainless Steel washer for fitment. Surcom Sw-102S - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7QPXEY NMO Mount to Ditch bracket. Recognize the antenna is not perfectly straight up and is at an angle, I'll try to figure out how to get this mount more straight up, but the way my ditch light bracket is, this may not be easily achievable. I then ran it across the engine bay and then into the cabin through a gromet. Both the power and NMO cable were tucked under panels. I then created a mount for the BTECH GMRS50-PRO and connected everything behind the drivers side backseat storage. Current readings on meter. Once BTECH releases their Mic extension, i will run the mic extension wire from the back panel to the front drivers seat, so i can control the whole radio via the BTECH mic remote. Thanks!

Pretty much what this switch is.. But in DC fashion because my repeater runs on Solar DC

pretty hard not too now days.. Hell, I got two ISP services.

I figured out an easy way to do it if your repeater doesn't have a stun or kill function built in. https://www.amazon.com/AD22B04-Signal-Decoder-Channel-Control/dp/B07L6H6BDQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Program the decoder and connect it to a relay which powers the repeater. Send out the code and it activates the latching relay which disconnects power. Only way to re-power is physically reactivate the self latching relay. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- To program the AD22B04 12V Decoder 4 Channel DTMF Tone Relay, you'll need to use a DTMF (Dual-Tone Multi-Frequency) signaling device like a phone or computer with DTMF output. First, ensure the device is powered on and in operating mode. Then, press the "key" button on the board to enter setting mode (the power LED will turn off). Finally, use your DTMF device to send the new command sequence (e.g., "#4*" to set channel 4 to a new code) followed by * or # to confirm the change. Detailed Steps: 1. Power and Setup: Connect the AD22B04 to a stable 12V power supply. Ensure the audio cable from your DTMF device is connected correctly. If using a phone, make sure the receiver has a 3.5mm audio jack and isn't muted. If using software on a computer, ensure it outputs DTMF tones and isn't muted. 2. Enter Setting Mode: Press the "key" button on the AD22B04 once. The power LED will turn off, indicating it's in setting mode. 3. Program the Relay: Identify the relay: Let's say you want to program channel 4. You will be using the command #4*. Enter the new code: Dial the DTMF sequence for the desired relay (e.g., for channel 4, the default is 4). Then, dial * to confirm. If you want to change the code for channel 4, dial the new code and then *. Example: If you want to change the code for channel 4 to "1234", you would dial #41234*. 4. Confirm and Exit: After entering the new code, press the key button again or power cycle the board to save the settings. The LED should turn on. Important Notes: The default commands are 1, 2, 3, and 4 for channels 1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively. You can program up to four digits for each relay. If you forget your programmed commands, you can reset the device by holding the key button for about 10 seconds until the LED lights up again, restoring the default commands. The AD22B04 can be used in different operating modes like Non-locking (Momentary), Self-locking (Toggle), and Inter-locking (Latch), which affects how the relays respond to the DTMF commands.

Permission to ask a potentially stupid question? Why would one have a "couple" of G90's? I understand redundancy. "One is none, two is one" kind of thing, but outside of that, what don't I know? Go easy, I'm new.

No WiFi where my repeater is.

6M is still VHF, it's just low VHF 50.0 to 54.0 MHz. 6m is generally good for local communication but is definitely hit or miss when it comes to long distance coms. It isn't called the magic band for nothing. Too bad the Xiegu G90 does not have 6m capabilities. I have a couple G90s and they work great for a 20 watt radio. I get comments on how my audio sounds all of the time. And I have worked stations with it and good resonant antenna that guys running a 100 watt radio with a not so good antenna don't hear. My next project is to mount a 15" portable monitor, TYT TH-7800, mini PC, and a couple of 10 AH batteries into an Apache 5800 case for portable WINLINK.

That's what I use to turn my repeater on/off.. Costed $22, took 30 seconds to setup, and I can control it from anywhere.

I had been addressing my three kids as "you jokers, smokers, and midnight tokers", which was fun until my 7 year old asked what a midnight toker was. Didn't think my cunning plan all the way through. I just said "it's from a song" and played Steve Miller Band until he quit asking questions.

And if your repeater is AC power based (as many are) just get a wifi smart plug. Easy Peasy.

AHHHH......WHAT..?????

That's where my head is right now, too. I'm very much looking forward to it. I've been watching Mike over on Ham Radio Tube and am currently obsessed with his G90 "Go-Box." As we plan to RV full time in the not too distant future, a Pelican case with a HAM radio in it and a portable antenna solution seems ideal. Glad you figured out the whole idea of "offsets." I'm embarrassed to admit how long it took me to figure them out.

They aren't cheap Amazon LED light bulbs but the LED fixture in my hallway bathroom from Home Depot? Great Googley Moogely! Traffic comes in to my HT clear as a bell, all day and night. But let somebody go in that bathroom and turn the light on? White noise on HT. Big time! The first time it happened, I thought the radio had failed or the antenna broke.

To the OP, I am somewhat in the same boat. My best guess, as it is something that I am only as of late learning myself, is that you are not hitting the repeater. I hear traffic from my local repeater all day and night. I've tried to work it with my HT and have had zero success. I've had simplex contacts out to about 3 miles, but the repeater is much, much further than that. And even though it is atop a mountain, I have no luck. I've decided to move up to a 50w radio and bigger antenna to try my luck.

Well, if reddit is to be believed, there's a bit of a grass roots uprising against them. Time will tell but I shan't be holding my breath, one way or the other.

"This long" has only been about three weeks. I've been a CB guy for the past three decades and didn't even really know what GMRS was until about 4 months ago. All I ever really used it for was communicating with OTR drivers when I was also on the road. Occasionally used it when offroad with others, but largely on the Interstates. I was largely ignorant of "skip" and the "Kilowatt Klub." I started looking into GMRS and HAM with interest about two months ago. Largely informed based on your videos, by the way. As I am, by nature, a rule follower, I made sure to cross the "t's" and dot the "i's." But once I really started to get my mind around the hyper-focused, local nature of what GMRS was and put that up against the absolutel impossibility for any federal agency to monitor it, I realized what a piper tiger it all was.

I went outside with my longer 771 antennas on 3 of my radios(AR-5RM, BF-F8HP Pro, and UV-K61) and the 3" antenna on my UV-5R and the longer antennas hit about 5 or 6 of the programmed repeaters, the UV-5R hit about 3 which I think is still pretty good for being in the 'burbs and miles away from the White Tanks. I can't wait to give 6M a try with the RT-880. If I could get 15 or 20 miles Simplex I'd be happy since 6M should skip a bit and not have to totally be Line of Sight like VHF/UHF is. I'm so glad I got my HAM Tech. License. This opens up a lot more Frequencies to play with vs GMRS/MURS.

Good job getting that all configured! And congratulations on your new call sign KM7BVY.

There are a lot of variables to take into account. But it doesn't surprise me about you having a weak signal with an HT inside the house. Metal buildings, metal roofs, old wood lath and plaster walls with chicken wire, bad electric wiring, etc can play havoc on radio signals. And the cheap Amazon LED light bulbs can be very noisy too.

I guess I've got everything programmed properly. I was getting automated returns from some of the local Repeaters and I even got a call back from a YL that said I had a weak signal with a lot of static, go figure, I'm using my BF-F8HP Pro from inside the house. I'm sure it's only pushing 5 or so watts. At least the HAM Repeaters are in operation, no deal for the Shaw Butte GMRS Repeater, it's still down and out.

I checked and everything was ok. I'm going to try to make my first contact. KM7BVY Over and Out. 73's.

30 Mile LOS requires a 600 ft elevation approx. Pretty sure that's not going to happen with him. 100' which is reasonable is still only about 12-15 miles.