kidphc

That is my 1322. My 1377 was at home with the others. My daughter wanted to shoot. Her LOP is incredibly short so I ended up with a lot of air rifles. More then I thought. Setup a 5m/10m range in the basement. 1322 and 2240 1322 the adapter came in finally. Waiting on the Tippman 98 AR stock. 2240 Bugbuster side focus scope on Intermod rail. British AR stock adapter (Ebay). With XTR AR15 stock with cheek riser (glad i got it with the riser) her sight picture is about 2 inches lower then me or my wife. Moderator is a TKO slip on. CMP853 (left) and Daisey Avant 449b (right) CMP 853 OMG. This has been the best buy so far. mm peep sight. Single shot around 450 fps. Its a 10m used by JROTC\CMP for marksmen ship training. Comes from the factory with a Lothar Walther barrell. I was sighting it in and it looks like a worm crawling up the target. Highly recommend . Highly recommend Match Grade wadcutter. Only 2 negatives. 1) Used 2) that pellet tray. Cost about $120 shipped. Yes CMP refurbishes them a bit. You also get a new rear peep, target sling and globe inserts with each. Really, only one you can buy without being a CMP affiliate program. https://thecmp.org/sales-and-service/sporter-air-rifles/ My REDDIT thread on it. Lastly My rat gun. Nova Vista Liberty in .22. She is my only PCP. Really hard hitting and amazingly accurate chinese gun about $300. But that is like saying a radio is $300, its the support equipment that gets you. The second gen is the renowed known and loved Air Venturi Avenger. 10/12m radio is to listen to CB(11m) for any reports on the road (mostly on ch 19. Emergency coms quaternary backup (lol so not likely). Primary, cell. secondary, 2m/70cm/aprs, tertiary GMRS. Have done some 10m SSB work. But not getting a lot. Not sure if I don't hear anyone or no one hears me. To be frank lot more traffic on 11m then 10m so far for me. Plus Super Bowl "ch6" can be entertaining with the WTF moments.

Not a terrible radio. But it isn't fabulous. For what I wanted great, well till I get my general ticket. Then an nice HF mobile, really waiting for a replacement for the FT891 or an amp package for the IC705. A screw driver, with controller. Going to cost some. So need to start saving. The FTM 400 can decode and send packets. It can not digipeat without an external TNC. Part of the reason it was chosen over the Kenwood was the touch screen. The ability to use SMSGate and Winlink without the need of a laptop. Two things have me not raving about it. 1.) Please Yaesu implement the near repeater feature like Kenwood and Icom. This would be fricking killer. 2.) No body does it but how awesome would a map display of APRS objects in the head be.

Didn't get the Fox Delta kit. Kinda, wish I had. The RS-70 was more compact. Doesn't have a peak hold, which would of been nice for mobile. Nor does the RS-70 do SSB real well, (lack of the carrier to measure). However, it came down to really to 3 things. 1.) Money the RS-70 was cheaper. 2.) Didn't want a project on top of a project. 3.) Did not have the space in the console for it. It's a lot more compact.

The horizontal pieces are an artificial ground plane. Generally, most vertical perform better with a ground plane. That goes for even antennas marked as no groundplane antennas. You get better swr matches when they are normally about 30-40 off angle from the horizontal axis. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Yeah. Good cables that conduct signals/electricity well. Do well in doing so in both directions. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Thank you I like to try and plan for changes in the future and try to do it right the first . Great then you have more then half of the foudations down just by experience with an electrician. Especially, if you get a ham ticket and start experimenting. Like many hobbies there is a lot to learn. The quality tools are expensive but worth it. Part of the fun is learning. Good luck and have fun. ** edited because I thought his son was an electrician. Did not realize he was the son of a master electrician, and helped dad out growing up. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Usually, yes. Each antenna could be different. It is a recommendation only. I actually use so239/pl259. Since all of my stuff has that connector. They do sell a version of my ham radio in Europe where the uhf/vhf port is n-style. In the US it is so239. I can deal with the losses, especially since the run of coax is short, and didn't want to deal with adapters or buying new polyphasers and such. Btw. Polyphasers are dc blocked. Not a problem with your current antenna choice. But some hoops ( if you get a ham ticket and want to reuse the gear for ssb work), don't work well with dc blocked arrestor. Most of the hoops were not dc blocked to deal with common mode noises. Or if you get a yagi, on unblocked setup yo can use the same coax to feed commands to the rotator. But I am getting way ahead of your build. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Yes. Don't daisy chain. Each peice of equipment should be ground to the buss individually. The buss/ground bar to the outside ground. How are you entering the house. Window pass through? Ribbon cables? Drilling a hole? I use a mfj window pass throughband dxengineering ground box. Lighting protection is a misnomer. It is more for static build up discharge and near strikes. A direct strike is going to wipe out tons of gear and maybe parts of the house. I like many hams usually disconnect everything for lightning storms. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Also for the antenna have you thought about an Ed Fong jpole cut/built to GMRS? Just need to slip it in a PVC pipe. Use muffler claps with some tubing to avoid cracking the PVC. The muffler clamp should be large enough to slip over the mast and PVC. He makes great antennas. If you don't know about him. He is a professor in antenna theories, builds them with his students. Well known in the Ham community. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

For 440 mHz and higher generally recommended to use n-style connectors. For heat shrink outside use UV rated marine style. Marine shrink wrap usually has glue built into it. Also most all coax seal is not UV stable. So you will need to wrap coax seal in UV electric tape. Keep in mind, that the hammer drill will work for smaller rocks. Larger rocks like some small boulders that I run into when digging in WVa will not work. You are still trying to drive a soft copper rod, doesn't matter if it is 1/2 inch wide or not. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I am curious also why? Plus what in the world are you guys using for duplexers? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Didn't see the part about the coax. As far as guy wires. You should be able to skip it, if the pole is secured to the frame of the house. Since, the house essentially becomes the guy wires. I had thought you were placing it in the yard. Impact hammer drill. They sell the attachment for ground rods for some $50. With you don't have to worry about blowing out the head (expanding) as you drive it. Yes, it will cost money to do it this way. But it will be a lot easier. NEC says you can bury it horizontally, for instance where bedrock won't allow you to drive it vertically. Do read up on it if you choose to go this way since they are specific on how to do it. Worst comes to worst pay an electrician to drive the rod and do all the bonding work. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Really suggest the guy wires. Even 21' fiberglass poles get wobbly. A steel push up will start getting wobbly as you exceed about 10 feet. Nothing worse then all your antenna gear getting trashed if it were to come crashing down. My Diamond x200 at 8' starts swaying badly enough with modest winds. I know it is fiberglass but can be a worry at times. Part of the reason it is in the attic. Depending on the distance from your houses electrical service ground you may need multiple 8' ground rods. Make sure to bond it to the house. Also consider renting a impact hammer from a hardware store to drive the ground rod. The recommendation of using water to drill the ground rod has resulted in some very condesending conversations with electricians. Lastly, think about the coax hard. It can easily be one of the most expensive parts of the install. The db loss in coax over long runs can add up quick. Nothing like having a 8db gain from a great antenna being eaten all up by coax loss. Unfortunately, stuff like LMR400 really should only be used for GMRS at under 100 feet. At that length I want to say it is a 6db loss (actually think that was for ham 70cm which was 440mhz). Yes, jumpers, swr meters and connectors add up in the loss department. Depending on designs and such probably less the 1db or so. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Thanks. Moral of the story. Don't get to ambitious and the more expensive route might be easier and actually cheaper Thought about that ball mount. Too bad the tank is on the right, since that would have been ideal having it on the rear right. On the left side I was worried about clipping trees and such. On the right, at least I can move to the center of the lane to clear stuff. Not so much wiggle room with a left rear ball mount. Lots of low hanging trees in Potomac and Tacoma Park, Maryland.

From what I read. CB is ok. We have land in Capon and Mineral county. Always wondered why I couldn't get anything on my ham radios. Now I know. In all honesty I thought it was because it was a radio dead zone because of the mountain ranges.

So today isn't the day for that type of test for you!! lol I went from NMO30 and NMO34 with 64" whips. To a MFJ 1610T hamstick. So the SWR for both 10m/11m are below 1-1.2. I was seeing about 10w on AM. From what I have seen from CB tuners. Out of the box the radio puts out close to what is advertised. I think I would of preferred a digital power setting rather then the analogue style power control. So depending on the mode your are using, the power output will change. But it is curious to see if there is any correlation.