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Could be a kink caused damage or excessive solder in one of the crimps. Guess you got to test each component individually. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Could be the difference fromnjust making onto a repeater to full quieting. Comparing a 30w radio to 60w radio is doubling the power worth about 1db. Hard to say if you will notice. Probably for 90% of the operation no. It's that 10% where you are almost at the noise floor and they can make you out and hear you. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Yes, you can. Understand, everyone can hear you. You will not hear them if the tones do not match. Think of it as a squelch that only opens when the tones match. Now you know why everyone says the antenna is more important then the radio. Uhf/vhf is mostly line of sight. The higher up you get it the more likely it is able to see other antennas over mountains and obstacles. Going from a 1/4 wave magnet mount on my truck to a 5/8 over 5/8 I went from 8-12miles to 23-40 miles. Going from a ht with the radio to my ftm400 now I can hit repeaters some 30 miles away easily. The x200 (8ft 2/70) 30+ feet in my attic. I am hitting repeaters close to 90 miles away (different band with ham repeaters). Congrats. You are reaping the rewards of your work. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Then leave good enough alone before you regret it. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Normally you can't trim commercial antennas that long. They are pretuned and colianear style antennas. If let say a cb antenna, you read the bottom channel swr and top. Bottom is higher then top then usually too long (trim). If top is higher then bottom the (then too short, extend, If not possible stop immediately). You can't length many antennas without replacement of the whip. Normally, I tune so the middle has the lowest. Remeber most vswr curves are v in shape. When vswr starts climbing around where you were wanting the curve to be the lowest you stop. Very important to go slow and small changes. Many hams have piles of whips where they went to far and trimmed too much. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Depends on how easy it is to tune. Personally yes. Also depends on what channel you will be using the most. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Another update. Had to tack weld a support for the upper L of the bracket to control really bad rocking. I also tack welded the mount to the hood hinge bracket to stop it from the constant tilting back after a whack. EDIT: to add image of the welded support

Have a fender mount from Walcott for the 02 burb. I've had to tack weld a support and tack weld it to the mounting location. The type I am using mounts to the hinge location. Keeping in mind the support was due to the usage of a 10m hamstick (70"). When the 4 foot antenna it was fine. The 70" would rock side to side and when it whacks a tree cause the mount to tilt backwards. Should of bought the other hood mount further down the hood. Would of stayed squared, but had the rocking. Why 70", close to 1/4 wave 1st. 2nd didn't want 100 wants blasting me in the face. 3rd 3/4 of the antenna is above the roof line plus with the hamstick it is top loades. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Tune at final location. Yes, lots of up and down. Interactions with environment will cause affect tuning. So239 = female Pl259 = male Your options are to crimp or solder. For crimping you will want/need a crimper, cutter. You will need to know what size coax you are using. The $8 cutters take adjusting to get right, so I recommend you test the cust on scraps. If turn it the wrong direction is that the blades will chip and the cutter is useless. You can buy the times microwave cutter. Much nicer but $100, and you have to buy one for each cable size. The ferrules (part you are crimping). Are the only real differences between cables. Order extras (ferrules connectors) in case you get a bad crimp. Soldering have a good iron. It takes quite a bit of heat, especially with larger or well shielded cables. My recommendation contact a ham club or a ham. Buy the ferrules. He'd probably do it for free to meet a radio guy. Edited because I am home now.

Your summary sounds about right. I add multiple trips to the hardware store into my estimate for any type of renovation. I like your approach trying to do it right. Hope you have some sealant and maybe a plastic shim, to keep it sealed and the coax not rubbing against bare concrete. It can be as bad as a sharp razor blade. Keep it up! Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Nec wants you to bond to the house ground. Remeber, even it is grounded to the rod the max potential might be higher then the the other ground. Path of least resistance, guess where it going to want to go. Secondary, you can cause a ground loop although not bad at uhf/vhf. Try avoiding it. I think spacing between 8' rods is 16 feet. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Anything in the path and near path should be replaced. Near field strikes can cause huge emp surges. Highly recommend checking appliances and such. They could of been damaged. Not sure if homeowners insurance will help when gear isn't properly grounded, AKA antennas. On a note to try and help you feel better. Even if you had properly grounded it, it wouldn't have mattered for a direct strike. Grounding the equipment is to bleed of static buildup ( could have been the cause of the strike) and for near lightning strike damage. Hence, why hams rush to disconnect equipment as soon as a bad microcell enters the area. Keep in mind the damage may have been minimized if grounded properly commercial repeaters get hit all the time. Although the antennas are usually obliterated from direct strikes. Even in a car accident you should have insurance replace your gmrs/ham/cb radio circuit boards can develop micro cracks and such. Which develop into erratic behavior. It isn't the massive amount of voltage doing all the damage. The gigantic rise is what really destroys everything. Inside of cables and such that do survive can have parts of it vaporized internally. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

some options. https://www.ebay.com/itm/323883630600?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323883630600&targetid=1069703719611&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9061283&poi=&campaignid=11612590686&mkgroupid=115886443569&rlsatarget=pla-1069703719611&abcId=9300457&merchantid=7945094&gclid=CjwKCAjw1uiEBhBzEiwAO9B_HUKUqeGBWq_m-QNAxImYemnD40AwpIVSTL21Iy2sPfmgWzkJ3zPBnRoC2c4QAvD_BwE https://go-vertical-usa.myshopify.com/collections/military-radio-tower-mast-sections-antenna-camo-pole https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/mfj-1906?seid=dxese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1uiEBhBzEiwAO9B_Hb3JOOF-x-KRrX5vOP1hsV-krlvUZnwL-gYW_xvbeEL-egIyngQuJRoC8MQQAvD_BwE

Military surplus antenna mast might be sturdy enough for the yagi, unfortunately won't work in the size department. Spiderbeam makes wonderful but pricey fiberglass push up mast. Weigh the yagi before you call to see if it can support it. Keep in mind with a fiberglass pushup pole you don't have to use all the sections just up too the highest strongest section you can use. A drive on pedestal mount for the mast may speed deployment up quite a bit. Sounds like satelite phone or a mobile starlink (for wifi calling) are right up you alley. Minus the $$$. Ever thought about your ham ticket? Aprs with the use of smsgate allows you to text and email via winlink. Limited yes, but better then nada. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Fiberglass tends to be lighter and more compact. The yagi is going to want to be on a metal pole. Recommendation. Roll up slim jim, sling shot, fishing line and sinkers. You shoot the weight up as high as you can get into a tree. Then pull up the cell repeater antenna and the slim jim. Of course only works when you arent in the middle of the desert. Why the yagi? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

If you are consistently getting 80% or higher on practice test... just go take it. You'll do fine. It's not like people are going to say omg.. you only got 75٪... we will never know. All the fcc cares about is pass or fail. You both got this. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

That is exactly why I was thinking vertical with a inverted v mounted to the tower. Can switch between antennas. Or better yet forget the vertical and go multi element yagi rotator and an inverted v. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Any vertical should work. To get resonant bands with a tower you could run a fan dipole, or any number of wire antennas. Only time you would need a tuner is if your system is not impedence matched. Even then I would recommend an auto tuner. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Not hard to route the coax. Just a little problematic if you have curtain airbags and such. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Speaking of insurance, I need to find out what waivers I need for my mobile radios in my truck. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Is this what you are talking about? https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-ucgc-z Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

No. It can take a week or so if they file electronically. If they do it manually could be a wee bit longer. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Sorry. Rather that then cussing pounding it and wishing you had the hammer drill right? Might as well pound some more in, not. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk