JJM
-
Posts
20 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Classifieds
Posts posted by JJM
-
-
I'm not an old Ham... but if you're talking to someone over the internet, that isn't radio, in my opinion. The whole point is to use airways to talk. If you are using the internet, you may as well be on a computer or smartphone. I especially feel this way about people using their smart phone to get into a group and they aren't even on a radio.
If 2 people are using their smartphone to talk to each other though a Fusion or WiresX web app, how the heck is that Ham radio? If that counts, anyone who talks on a cell phone may as well consider themselves a Ham. LOL
Technically it’s still over the air when you do radio to hotspot, que no?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
If you are only interested in VHF, GMRS is just fine. But the Tech license also gives you other bands besides 2 meters. Although GMRS is growing very fast, right now there are way more 2 meter and 440 repeaters you can access while traveling. But if you are only interested in local VHF communications, I would not bother with a ham license.
Except that GMRS is UHF but we understood you (hopefully).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
Yes, but very easy to fish through from the inside. Certainly no more difficult than fishing the coax from the 3/4” hole towards its destination.
No matter which type you use, you still have to fish something from or to the mounting hole.
I think getting the 3/8” mount up through the hole would be more difficult than pushing a 3/4” mount down into the hole. Idk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
You have all cited some of the reasons that I now prefer 3/8” NMO’s. I can drill accurately from the outside with a drill stop on the drill bit so that the bit does even come close to touching the head liner. If the sheet metal is too thin, I can position a thin 3/8” fender washer on the inside to add strength and stability.
It’s increasingly rare that a headliner needs to be dropped. I just pull some the rubber seal around a door and there’s more than enough room to snake the coax to the B or C post. On most cars and trucks, I usually slip my hand between the headliner snd the roof.
Food for thought: On the Jeep Grand Cherokees and Dodge Durangos, the headliner is one piece. They install it through the front window opening long before they mount the front window. I am sure that other vehicles are built in a similar fashion these days. Dropping the headliner becomes less and less of an option.
Regardless of how one chooses to drill an antenna mount, It is imperative that coax (and any other upfitting wiring) not block an airbag. It is generally OK to slip your coax between the airbag and the body of the vehicle. Think twice; route once.
3/8” style require access from underneath to install, don’t they?
3/4” can be installed from on top/outside.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
This is the proper tool for drilling NMO mounting holes. Note that it has a maximum depth of 1/8th inch, so there's no danger of damaging a headliner. There are other similar tools available some even lower priced, but this Larsen tool was the only one allowed in my GESS (General Electric Service Station) I once owned.
$49.95 at The Antenna Farm:
https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-hs34-1647
The pilot bit looks longer than 1/8”
Also, the knockout looks like it still requires a hole to be drilled to be used. For that effort, I’d rather make the hole “once” from the outside vs having to go through the entire disassembly of the interior to drop the headliner enough for that knock-out too. That’s just me (and my previous 6 self-installed NMO mounts) talking.
Whatever OP feels comfortable with!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
Yeah don’t pay $200 dollars. Local installer charged me $20 the very first time I installed antennas. FOR THREE.
This is the hole saw I use
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
The comet mount came yesterday, and I'm rethinking not drilling. Interference when its open, and placing the antenna in front of the 3rd brake light.
In the above #2 location, am I to assume that is just in front of the rear cross member, where the headliner dips back up?
Is drilling as easy as this: http://www.satstar.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=Z7UO3B-qIjc%3D&portalid=4
Do I need a hole saw bit, or will my nice machine drill bits work? I have a 3/4" traditional bit. Anything else I need to know, keep in mind, get for the install? For dielectric grease, just any old automotive dielectric grease will work?
Do I need to move the roof rack bar from the antenna 6"+?
Thanks,
Yup, it’s that easy. Be careful with the bit. Some cut for a 3/4” inner diameter pipe. That would be too big. To check, take the ring off the NMO mount and see if the bit fits inside it (or inside the o-ring at least).
As for the grease: most antennas come with an o-ring or rubber gasket. I’ve never used grease and never had any corrosion issues when the rubber parts are used and properly tightened.
I tape off a 6x6 square, take my measurements to center the mount, mark, center punch, and drill.
Always be sure you have clearance (or control) so that you don’t punch through the headliner.
I didn’t read what wavelength antenna you chose but a rough guide is to make sure you have it’s length I’m clearance around the mount.
These things are super easy to do. I’ve done 6 holes in 3 different vehicles. I don’t even drop the headline, I just use a wire hanger to fish the cable over to the edge where I can pull the rest through (which reminds me, be careful pulling the coax through your new, sharp hole!).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
Yea, some say you're not a real radio guy until you drill holes in your ride to mount the antennas. Can't do that with company stuff, rentals or lease.
No one has ever had a problem doing it on a lease. Most people are oblivious.
As for company: get permission. Rentals: yeah not worth the effort.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
Drill it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
So, in summary, to use a repeater that operates on frequency 'A' and tone code 'B', not using the tone code 'B' does not prevent one from transmitting/receiving via the repeater, so long as it is in range?
The repeater in question for myself has no tone out, but it does have a tone in. Does this mean it only recevies/relays transmissions using the specified 'tone' on the specified frequency?
It means you have to set a TX pl tone on your radio or the repeater won’t listen to you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
I have similar radios. Fortunately, the local repeater is 400 ft up on a tower. We can reach it from several miles away. We get even further with mobile equipment. These radios are adequate for repeater use if you have a repeater high enough.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
We can’t use it anymore, shaine!
706
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
Hmmm my Motorola Repeater on GM300 and M120 is not working and I can't hear go farther at 20 miles. Something on my repeater system has brought back in 1 mile local repeater. All I knew my repeater should be correct frequency and duplexer.
I think I put something wrong programming on Motorola RSS GM300/M120 software on DOS program mode
GM300- RX Mode
RX: 462.6500
TX:462.6500
or
RX: 462.6500
TX: BLANK
M120- TX Mode
RX: 467.6500
TX:467.6500
or
RX: 467.6500
TX: BLANK
Can you tell me which is the correct frequency to programming and make long distance? Please let me know.
Thanks,
Captain Randy
I’m not expert but should the RX machine be
RX: ###.####
TX: blank
And the TX machine be
RX: blank
TX: ###.#####
?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
-
You only need to program the input tone unless you want to set your squelch “wide open” and let the repeaters output tone open up the receive in your radio.
By setting input and output tones you basically make your radio deaf to anyone else transmitting. Unless they have the same tone programmed. People can still hear you but your radio won’t open up unless they broadcast the same RX tone you’ve set.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
Looks like I'm a couple of miles outside of the nearest repeater's coverage map. This is the one: https://mygmrs.com/view?id=3521
I have a few more questions:
- The output is listed as 462.725 Mhz. Looking at my frequency reference chart, this would be GMRS channel 22, correct?
- If this is channel 22, and all I wanted to do was listen, I would only have to switch to channel 22 and do nothing else?
- For travel tone (PL tone?) it says "No". This means no tone is needed, correct? But even if there was a PL tone, as long as I have no tone set on my radio, I should still be able to hear everything?
1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Travel tone is a national standard tone for the national standard “calling” frequency. It’s purpose is 1 tone/frequency to make it easier to make contacts while out of your normal area. It is not necessary for listening.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
You won’t hear anything from the repeater without using the correct tones. Usually. Some repeaters don’t require tones but they are rare.
There’s a map on this site of repeaters. Check to see if any are near you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
You won’t hear anything without using the correct tones. Usually. Some repeaters don’t require tones but they are rare.
There’s a map on this site of repeaters. Check to see if any are near you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
The name of the state that the repeater network is in shown on the list of networks would be nice.
So I don’t click on “hill country” thinking it’s Texas hill country when it is not.
Just add one more column to show the state the network is located in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
As stated: the repeater channels transmit on an offset of + 5.000 MHz. The second radio is listening on, let’s say, 462.625 but the first radio is transmitting on 467.625. There are PL tones involved as well, for actual repeater use.
Best option(s) to link repeaters?
in General Discussion
Posted
Sorry to dig up an old thread, i'm looking into how to link my 97S to the network. This line caught my attention.
Are you saying that if you set the offset to larger than 5 MHz the final output wattage would be higher?