SteveShannon

I just logged in without any issues.

I can definitely believe that. But transmitting on one H3 while receiving on the other H3 doesn’t affect the final transistor(s) (the output transistor) on the receiving radio.

Being within a couple feet of another should have no effect on the finals. I bet that something with the programming resulted in inhibited transmit.

I have the 117 and really like it. Of course I wanted the 87 but I couldn’t justify the price difference.

Welcome to the forums!

Is it possible that it was something that changed due to expansion and contraction with temperature? Otherwise, have you tried connecting the old coax to an antenna analyzer to see how it looks?

55 years ago I was voted class clown and sometimes I regress. I could understand wanting to set up a “base station” using a better antenna and higher powered radio in order to get more range. That’s much easier to do than a repeater and would give you the same range. What do you hope to achieve by having a repeater in your apartment? Are you planning to provide the repeater for others to use?

He was actually new twice here. He quit once, had his name purged, and then slunk back in. That’s why there are all those idiotic posts attributed to “Guest” in the non-guest forums.

It appears there are three different options for scan mode. Carrier, Time, and Search. Search exits out of scan when a signal is detected. It’s described in the extended manual.

You can still see how people react to him. I added him to my ignore list a while ago and it really has made my life easier.

Any 50 ohm dummy load that is rated for the maximum power output of your radio is just fine. Understand that there are continuous power ratings and ratings that are derated based on time and output power.

There might be some reason why a person would have multiple FRNs, such as to compartmentalize licenses. Just speculation on my part.

No, it’s extremely easy with no checking. I did it by mistake (I cannot claim an accident; it was my own ignorance) They both appear in my ULS account. Once I realized my old FRN still existed I simply used it, but the other one still exists.

1. Yes 2. No

Talk to your truck dealer about the voltage. There is a voltage regulator in the trucks charging circuit to prevent over voltage from the alternator. I don’t think that voltage is within specs. Most are right around 14 volts. 13.8 is optimal. However, to answer your actual question there are DC regulators that would deliver an output closer to 13.8 vDC. Here’s one I found with a google search: https://www.amazon.com/Diann-Automatic-Converter-Regulator-Waterproof/dp/B09TXSDSGS/ref=pd_aw_subss_hxwPER_sspa_mw_detail_m_sccl_5/134-6644960-5637816?pd_rd_r=4dcb5bcc-df15-449e-884d-5aa656cc2c99&pd_rd_wg=2ELCJ&pd_rd_w=emKb6&pd_rd_i=B09TXSDSGS&psc=1