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axorlov

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Everything posted by axorlov

  1. I seriously doubt that. Simplex repeat appears to be not allowed, falls into "store and forward" category. Of course one can set up an external simplex repeater. More fun when you have two nearby.
  2. I can't help with this, however, the important measurements would be power before the duplexer and power after the duplexer. Don't get obsessed with SWR, it is just a function of forward and reflected power. In the end, power into the antenna is what's important.
  3. To totally confuse the Barney Fifes of the worlds and throw them off the trail completely, in addition to a very wide-spectrum transmitter one would need a robust encryption. I recommend ROT13. It is super strong if applied multiple times. There is a reason it's banned by government, just like spark gaps are!
  4. Good afternoon my little football fans. One of the questions I get is do we use a pry-bars or do we not. Pry-bar is a tool to break into all kind of storage facilities, sheds and into people bedrooms! <... bla bla bla ...> You got to know your Linux! And you need your iPhone! P.S. I'm a regular APRS user, but not on GMRS band, no, hell no. And not via smartphone.
  5. Let's celebrate the century without the spark gap transmitters! I will pour myself a tall one tonight!
  6. Two antennas met on a roof, fell in love and got married. The ceremony wasn’t much, but the reception was excellent.
  7. Yes, I think there is an article on RepeaterBuilder about how to realign TK880 to 70cm, I remember reading it. But I never did it to my radios, and they do work on the repeater section on 70cm band, and can be programmed with the unmodified/unhacked KBG-49D.
  8. Ok, fleetsync programming points out that they are not realigned for ham bands. And yes, type "-1" radios can work on the upper portion of 70cm band, it is where repeaters are. I did not realign mine, they work just fine, without any distortion. Audio reports are good. I never got around to actually measure the power output on different sections of 70cm, one day I will do that. KPG-49D will throw up the prompt that frequency is out of band, but it will still write it into the radio and radio will tune to it.
  9. Your repeater output (where it transmits) is on 462.600, and it's input (where it listens) is on 467.600. You need to use channel that transmits on repeater input frequency.
  10. Same thing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuous_Tone-Coded_Squelch_System
  11. One of the reason of low power is that this TK-880H with BNC tap was realigned for ham band 70cm. Did you happen to save the original codeplug for it to see what was programmed? Check Realignment chapter in the Service Manual, maybe it may help. Edit: Another thing to check, to close this matter: measure the voltage at the radio, while pressing PTT. If it is still 13.6V your power supply, wires and connectors are good.
  12. I have three TK-880H and all three show 30W on high power, when driving dummy load. Nominal supposed to be 40W. I use Diamond SX-600 power meter, which I trust, however, it was never compared to a better meter. 20W is a bit low. Are these "-1" radios? Congrats on starting collection of TK-880!
  13. Connected to C201-R201-R202-L200 filter. Looks like an input for a secondary receiver, behind the antenna switch. Maybe for scanner working off the same antenna? That would explain BNC connector too. Clever, I need to remember this for possible future installs. Edit: the more I look at it, the more I think this is for a scanner working off the same antenna. The tap is behind the antenna switch (to not fry the receiver) and before the L203 band pass filter (to keep wide band receive). Refer to page 28, fig 2 in service manual.
  14. Cool! Just remember, spark gap transmitters are banned on ham bands since 1920s and internationally since 1930s, and for a good reason.
  15. What a ripoff! My GMRS radio has 250 channels.
  16. "Set your radio to five seven five" has exactly the same number of syllables as "set your radio to channel sixteen". But use whatever works better between you and your friends, it's a free country! There is a confusion between channels aka the memory slot on the radio and channel aka frequency, and this thread demonstrates it very clearly. Our resident youtube darling can't grasp this difference.
  17. Chirp is easy to use and very straightforward. But look at this, it may help: https://chirp.danplanet.com/projects/chirp/wiki/MemoryEditorColumns
  18. Because this it the channel nonsense. Channel is only a programming slot in your radio. Drop this "channel" affection and start thinking frequencies. And if you insist on numbering channels here are two things: 1) there are 22 numbered frequencies in FRS/GMRS, no channel #23 2) here is the channel numbering table: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Mobile_Radio_Service
  19. Results are inconclusive without the proper testing equipment, however signal is being radiated from somewhere, so it either can't reach the PA, or PA is shot. The supply voltages on PA are correct, you confirmed it. I'd try to test AC voltage when keying mic at the Q7, Q202, Q204, Q205. Oscilloscope would be very handy here.
  20. Nothing looks wrong on this pic. The voltages seem fine. Without the oscilloscope with 500MHz bandwidth it's hard to diagnose. However, if you put your multimeter (totally not rated for 500MHz) into Voltage-AC mode, and check pin 1 when pressing PTT, and you see <anything>, the signal goes in. Now, do the same test on pin 4, where the amplified signal should be. Keep antenna or dummy load connected.
  21. Ahh, screw the day job, this is fun. Here is the excerpt from the service manual, page 72: Notice the R:0.01V T:7.52V (in pink) close to the bottom-left corner. So, maybe 7.88 is not too high, after all.
  22. 7.88V seems to be high. The second table on page 2 of the datasheet shows the nominal parameters: Vdd=12.5V (that's likely your supply voltage, so no surprise if it is 13.6V), Vgg=5V. P-in=50mW, and since your nearby HT can receive signal, it looks like you are getting this signal in. Still try to visually check the traces on PCB for cracks and bad soldering, use a magnifying glass.
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