WRUE951 Posted July 29 Report Posted July 29 I was using a DTMF switch that required an HT transceiver to remotely shut down my repeater. It worked but wasn't always reliable. One of my friends told me about an eWELink WiFi switch he uses for his garage door opener that works off a free eWelink phone app.. (both androoid & IOS). I bought one on Amazon along with a fused 30A relay. All together $12 bucks. Tested it out on the bench, works great. I can shut down the repeater anywhere in the world and it's pretty much 100% reliable.. Just got done printing up a case to hold it all.. thought i would share for anyone looking for an easy solution.. If you want the 3D box print... message me, i'll send it to youl. The eWeLink switches come in a one Ch, two Ch or 4 Ch DC configurations. i used their 'one Ch.' for this project. IMG_3172.HEIC WRYZ926, 73blazer, SteveShannon and 1 other 4 Quote
LeoG Posted Thursday at 03:19 PM Report Posted Thursday at 03:19 PM Well 100% reliable as long as you have internet. Quote
WSAQ296 Posted 4 hours ago Report Posted 4 hours ago And if your repeater is AC power based (as many are) just get a wifi smart plug. Easy Peasy. Quote
OffRoaderX Posted 4 hours ago Report Posted 4 hours ago 22 minutes ago, WSAQ296 said: And if your repeater is AC power based (as many are) just get a wifi smart plug. Easy Peasy. That's what I use to turn my repeater on/off.. Costed $22, took 30 seconds to setup, and I can control it from anywhere. Quote
LeoG Posted 3 hours ago Report Posted 3 hours ago I figured out an easy way to do it if your repeater doesn't have a stun or kill function built in. https://www.amazon.com/AD22B04-Signal-Decoder-Channel-Control/dp/B07L6H6BDQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Program the decoder and connect it to a relay which powers the repeater. Send out the code and it activates the latching relay which disconnects power. Only way to re-power is physically reactivate the self latching relay. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- To program the AD22B04 12V Decoder 4 Channel DTMF Tone Relay, you'll need to use a DTMF (Dual-Tone Multi-Frequency) signaling device like a phone or computer with DTMF output. First, ensure the device is powered on and in operating mode. Then, press the "key" button on the board to enter setting mode (the power LED will turn off). Finally, use your DTMF device to send the new command sequence (e.g., "#4*" to set channel 4 to a new code) followed by * or # to confirm the change. Detailed Steps: 1. Power and Setup: Connect the AD22B04 to a stable 12V power supply. Ensure the audio cable from your DTMF device is connected correctly. If using a phone, make sure the receiver has a 3.5mm audio jack and isn't muted. If using software on a computer, ensure it outputs DTMF tones and isn't muted. 2. Enter Setting Mode: Press the "key" button on the AD22B04 once. The power LED will turn off, indicating it's in setting mode. 3. Program the Relay: Identify the relay: Let's say you want to program channel 4. You will be using the command #4*. Enter the new code: Dial the DTMF sequence for the desired relay (e.g., for channel 4, the default is 4). Then, dial * to confirm. If you want to change the code for channel 4, dial the new code and then *. Example: If you want to change the code for channel 4 to "1234", you would dial #41234*. 4. Confirm and Exit: After entering the new code, press the key button again or power cycle the board to save the settings. The LED should turn on. Important Notes: The default commands are 1, 2, 3, and 4 for channels 1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively. You can program up to four digits for each relay. If you forget your programmed commands, you can reset the device by holding the key button for about 10 seconds until the LED lights up again, restoring the default commands. The AD22B04 can be used in different operating modes like Non-locking (Momentary), Self-locking (Toggle), and Inter-locking (Latch), which affects how the relays respond to the DTMF commands. Quote
WRUE951 Posted 3 hours ago Author Report Posted 3 hours ago On 7/31/2025 at 8:19 AM, LeoG said: Well 100% reliable as long as you have internet. pretty hard not too now days.. Hell, I got two ISP services. Quote
WRUE951 Posted 3 hours ago Author Report Posted 3 hours ago 1 hour ago, WSAQ296 said: And if your repeater is AC power based (as many are) just get a wifi smart plug. Easy Peasy. Pretty much what this switch is.. But in DC fashion because my repeater runs on Solar DC Quote
WRUE951 Posted 2 hours ago Author Report Posted 2 hours ago 1 hour ago, LeoG said: No WiFi where my repeater is. Starlink... Quote
LeoG Posted 2 hours ago Report Posted 2 hours ago If I'm unwilling to put WiFi into my show why would I put Starlink in? I use my phone as a hotspot while I'm there. As soon as I leave no more internet. And since I'm there I could just flip the power switch. WRUE951 1 Quote
WRUE951 Posted 1 hour ago Author Report Posted 1 hour ago 1 hour ago, LeoG said: If I'm unwilling to put WiFi into my show why would I put Starlink in? I use my phone as a hotspot while I'm there. As soon as I leave no more internet. And since I'm there I could just flip the power switch. I've got a Hytera repeater. My Ham friend that turned me onto the remote switch was over the other day messing with my CPM. He figured out how to set up the repeater to monitor via the web anywhere and also shut it down through Hytera RDAC software he found on the web. The remote shut down via the Phone App is still a little easier but the RDAC offer complete remote monitoring. Cool stuff. Quote
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