Just for the eyes

[Savage]

I don't know how many will care about this but I built a box and thought I'd post it.

 

For the woodworkers here, please ignore the joints.  I used the miter corner "tape trick" instead of clamping and the thing blew up on me during glue up and I had to scramble for clamps.  Didn't get my usual, clean corners.  I was also too lazy to route the edges.

 

 

 

 

 

[Durake]

Looks awesome! Nice work.

[Savage]

Looks awesome! Nice work.

 

Thanks Drake... somewhat related, I was lazy and just pushed the power wires into the back of the box.  I've read about coiling extra antenna wire having the potential to cause problems but can coiled DC power cables also be a problem?  I can cut them... after building a box, I probably shouldn't be so lazy to skimp on this but figured I'd ask out of curiosity.

[Durake]

I've read about coiling extra antenna wire having the potential to cause problems but can coiled DC power cables also be a problem? 

 

I'm sure there is someone more "qualified" to answer that question but I'd be more than happy to share my insight. I've also heard the same thing. In my experience I've had no issues. I heard on lower frequencies such a HF/VHF it can cause issues but nothing around UHF. That being said, for my car install I have a couple feet of coax coiled up under seat and a longer than need be power cable from the radio to the battery. No noticeable issues, I've even tried shorter cables to compare it and nothing is different.

 

I don't think it's a bad idea to go ahead and keep the cables short to keep it nice and neat but if nobody will see the extra cables I think you're fine.

[Savage]

I'm sure there is someone more "qualified" to answer that question but I'd be more than happy to share my insight. I've also heard the same thing. In my experience I've had no issues. I heard on lower frequencies such a HF/VHF it can cause issues but nothing around UHF. That being said, for my car install I have a couple feet of coax coiled up under seat and a longer than need be power cable from the radio to the battery. No noticeable issues, I've even tried shorter cables to compare it and nothing is different.

 

I don't think it's a bad idea to go ahead and keep the cables short to keep it nice and neat but if nobody will see the extra cables I think you're fine.

 

Thank you sir.

[JCase]

That looks great if you ask me. I can show you a butcher job that I did building a 19” rack cabinet on wheels that holds a primary and backup repeater. It might not be pretty but it does the job and other than the wheels, I had everything else and decided to just use what I already had. It beats the price of a professionally built cabinet and I’m the only one that ever sees it. Now, if I end up having to relocate the repeater to a location other than my house, I’ll suck it up and spend the money on a real cabinet or ask you to build it lol. There’s no way I would want anyone to see my sad attempt at building one.

Yours on the other hand, I’d be proud to show off, exactly as it is. Nice job !

[Savage]

That looks great if you ask me. I can show you a butcher job that I did building a 19” rack cabinet on wheels that holds a primary and backup repeater. It might not be pretty but it does the job and other than the wheels, I had everything else and decided to just use what I already had. It beats the price of a professionally built cabinet and I’m the only one that ever sees it. Now, if I end up having to relocate the repeater to a location other than my house, I’ll suck it up and spend the money on a real cabinet or ask you to build it lol. There’s no way I would want anyone to see my sad attempt at building one.

Yours on the other hand, I’d be proud to show off, exactly as it is. Nice job !

 

Thank you for the kind words.

 

I've been a musician all my life (well, I wasn't born one, but...) so have been around 19" racked gear for decades and it blows my mind the price companies get for these.  Road cases, I get it, they serve a purpose beyond just a place to mount gear, but non-road worthy boxes with a couple metal channels, come on!

[JCase]

Totally agree. A few manufacturers are starting to offer reasonable or less expensive models finally but only in the very small sizes.

In response to coax and power leads, excess coax can have a negative impact on your SWR really causing significant problems including burning up your radio. This goes for base, reapeaters, mobiles but if you coil it to store until you deploy and deploy the entire length while in use it shouldn’t be a problem. You can sometimes get away with a little extra in a mobile/vehicle as long as you don’t coil it or cross over any part. I’ve had problems in the past with exactly that. Once I shortened the coax so I had no more than a foot extra, my SWR reading was a lot lower and resulted in an acceptable level. Prior to cutting the excess it was 2.8 and higher. It drove me crazy and I ended up ruining an antenna thinking I needed to keep trimming the darn thing when all along it was my coax. On your power leads, the longer the run, the greater loss of voltage and the longer run causes more friction (I think that’s the correct term) and potentially overheating. A fused positive should protect from the risk of fire but it’s still a good idea to remove the excess. I’m by far no electrician nor am I a radio tech. These are things that a long time good friend (who was both of those) always preached to me.

Whatever you decide, I wish you success and would love to see pictures of your final creation once you decide it’s completed.

[JCase]

BTW, the coax/SWR issue as on UHF, GMRS to be exact.

[dwmitchell61]

Dude! I'd like to know how you got the cool blue coloration... and where did you get the whole pirate looking sea trunk corner protectors and handles?

 

I like it!

[Savage]

Dude! I'd like to know how you got the cool blue coloration... and where did you get the whole pirate looking sea trunk corner protectors and handles?

 

I like it!

 

I stained the wood with water based dye stain.  This particular stain comes in a powder (made by Lockwood) and you mix it to preference.  I finished it with Watco finishing oil (natural).  The wood is European Birch, is very dense wood and really held the stain.  I've used this stain with curly Maple to bring out the figuring and it didn't hold the rich color like this Birch did.

 

The corners are these:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQRG3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

If you like the antique drawer pulls on the side (they're handing for picking up the box) there's a wide variety of them out there. I just searched ebay and really like the ones in the link below but there's a nice variety out there.  

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Antique-vtg-Style-Victorian-Brass-Apothecary-Bin-Pulls-Handles-3-7-16-w-A5/201807071002?hash=item2efca3871a:g:VQEAAOSwGPNcMUoG

[axorlov]

Pretty!

It looks like I can have my amateur woodworking questions answered here? Before I was going to motorcycle forums for that kind of advice.

[Savage]

Pretty!

It looks like I can have my amateur woodworking questions answered here? Before I was going to motorcycle forums for that kind of advice.

 

LOL - Now that's funny!  

[Savage]

would love to see pictures of your final creation once you decide it’s completed.

 

Not much to it - all I did was add a shelf since there was no good place to put it.  Here's the final setup.

 

 

 

[n4gix]

That is simply awesomely lovely!