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WRUT470

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45 minutes ago, WRCQ487 said:

You may want to post the year, make and model of your truck so people can better understand and help you. I'm a firm believer in hard installs but good 3M double sided tape or heavy duty Velcro works too. 

If it sticks...

Until it was totaled in a roll-over last year, I'd gone twenty years with only two holes in a Jeep Cherokee. The Yaesu FT-100 transceiver was carpet taped under the passenger seat, remote control head mount taped "under" the parking brake (enough offset to reach the controls, but that was the flattest spot to tape the mount), microphone in a hanger taped on the dash. The holes? I decided the speaker wasn't that audible, so put an external speaker in at the knee region of passenger seat, side of central console. All wires were routed under trim panels (and power went around door jamb and along inside fender space).

"Replacement" rust-bucket has plastic that just won't take adhesive tapes... I've tried double-face tape, foam mounting squares, 3M Command Strips, etc. And none would hold. If it wasn't for the presence of rust and other wear (a 2008 Liberty with 190k miles, vs my former 1999 with just 75k) I wouldn't have a radio of any type. No room under passenger seats (passenger present sensor for air bag is in the way, transfer case bulge under driver seat, no flip up rear seat). ICOM 5100 is mounted in the plastic bin under the rear cargo area, wiring (in plastic flex conduit) clamped along side panels, etc..

20220722_174835.thumb.jpg.3881c0fe540ba5f103f51d2d66278255.jpg

The MXT-115 has been swapped out for a DB-20G, but I still need to fabricate a quick-disconnect power lead for it, currently using the lighter plug for power

20220822_122430.thumb.jpg.b59e28bf6db51ea90a001d8882989203.jpg

Similar conduit (next size smaller) running on the other side has the antenna cables from CB & GMRS mag-mounts.

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Cell mountOn my 2000 LC. I have mounted the radio bodies to the glove box and 3rd row molle panes. The mics magnetic mic mounted to the center console molle panels. 

Now for the heads. The FTM400XDR  head is mounted above the rear view mirror which was 3d printed by a member in PETG on IH&MUD.com for the Landcruiser. My CDM 1250 remote head is 3m body tape (VHB)\ in front the coum shifter.

THIS IS WHERE IT MAY WORK FOR YOU.

I have a cell phone mount that I used a RAM bolt through 1"Ball. Mishmashed with Ram entions connected to a17mm ball that I connected to a wireless cell mount. Well in your case. Case if you have a driver side door handle if you pop off the plastic cover you can take a bolt and measure it. why? because the ball mount will require most likely a slightly longer screw and may even require you to fabricate a spacer. With a Ram X mount you can mount your head in the same location. 

I dislike suction cup mounts. I have had very expensive electronics fall off the windshield. However, another universal suction cup mount may work for the head.

If you have a center glove box or center console you can fabricate a simple wood mount to slide into said space and mount the radio body to it. Or even under the rear bench if you have a king cab or crew cab. 

You will be drilling holes  But not into the body or interior of the truck.

 

Picture of cell phone mount.

qFeLBde.jpg

 

Ram ball mount I used

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J43I56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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2 hours ago, KAF6045 said:

 

If it sticks...

Until it was totaled in a roll-over last year, I'd gone twenty years with only two holes in a Jeep Cherokee. The Yaesu FT-100 transceiver was carpet taped under the passenger seat, remote control head mount taped "under" the parking brake (enough offset to reach the controls, but that was the flattest spot to tape the mount), microphone in a hanger taped on the dash. The holes? I decided the speaker wasn't that audible, so put an external speaker in at the knee region of passenger seat, side of central console. All wires were routed under trim panels (and power went around door jamb and along inside fender space).

"Replacement" rust-bucket has plastic that just won't take adhesive tapes... I've tried double-face tape, foam mounting squares, 3M Command Strips, etc. And none would hold. If it wasn't for the presence of rust and other wear (a 2008 Liberty with 190k miles, vs my former 1999 with just 75k) I wouldn't have a radio of any type. No room under passenger seats (passenger present sensor for air bag is in the way, transfer case bulge under driver seat, no flip up rear seat). ICOM 5100 is mounted in the plastic bin under the rear cargo area, wiring (in plastic flex conduit) clamped along side panels, etc..

20220722_174835.thumb.jpg.3881c0fe540ba5f103f51d2d66278255.jpg

The MXT-115 has been swapped out for a DB-20G, but I still need to fabricate a quick-disconnect power lead for it, currently using the lighter plug for power

20220822_122430.thumb.jpg.b59e28bf6db51ea90a001d8882989203.jpg

Similar conduit (next size smaller) running on the other side has the antenna cables from CB & GMRS mag-mounts.

Panavise does make a mount for the liberty https://www.panavise.com/pdf_indash/751052008.pdf

2 hours ago, WRUT470 said:

I have a 2017 Ford F350 

Thanks!

They have the f350 covered as well, at least for a remote head mount

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2 hours ago, wayoverthere said:

Panavise does make a mount for the liberty https://www.panavise.com/pdf_indash/751052008.pdf

The angle isn't clear, but I'd be concerned about -- the airbag! It's the grey vinyl above the glove box, and if it has any side spread could result in launching the radio toward the driver position. Especially for something like the ID5100 which uses a pair of magnets to hold the control head to the mounting plate.

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10 minutes ago, KAF6045 said:

The angle isn't clear, but I'd be concerned about -- the airbag! It's the grey vinyl above the glove box, and if it has any side spread could result in launching the radio toward the driver position. Especially for something like the ID5100 which uses a pair of magnets to hold the control head to the mounting plate.

I'll try to get a better straight on look at mine when i get out of work....they say the mounts are made not to interfere with airbags, but I don't know if they take the width of a control head into account.

My 2730 control head should be an okay approximation of width, if not necessarily height, compared to the 5100.

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18 hours ago, wayoverthere said:

I'll try to get a better straight on look at mine when i get out of work....they say the mounts are made not to interfere with airbags, but I don't know if they take the width of a control head into account.

My 2730 control head should be an okay approximation of width, if not necessarily height, compared to the 5100.

Here's the passenger seat view of my 2730 head on the panavise mount. While the face is held on by magnets, there isn't a lot of room to hit the faceplate from behind without also hitting the plate it's stuck to, and cable routing may also help mitigate it's tendency to become a projectile, should the airbag spread too much to the side.

Screenshot_20221028-100308.png

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  • 2017 F150. I bought a (used) dash mount bracket made by Builtright Industries. This lets you use RAM mounts and compatible arms/balls etc. Instead of RAM mounts, I bought a piece of perforated "L" metal stock, steel spacers, and nuts/bolts/washers that attach to the builtright bracket. The control heads for the KG1000G and Wouxun KG-920PA are bolt to the L stock. I bought LIDO mic mounts that are adhesive mounted to the dash
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