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i completely forgot that was there as well lol

the appendix in the rear gives all the menu shortcut numbers and a brief descriptor of what they do. [it is menu 24 and 25 [one for a/b]

There should be an option in the menu for naming the repeaters, i have my ar-5rm set up this way, witha ll the repeaters names... then it was just changing a setting in the menu of the radio, or in chirp for the name to show instead of the freq...

Oh nice, read through the manual 5 times but must've missed that setting. Thanks!

itll look like this when done..

the uv-5g+ can save in names for channels and the radio itself can change display from freq / channel / name [programmed via chirp] I forget the exact but i think its menu 25 or close to that

Recently got into this hobby and purchased a Boafang UV-5G+. I was planning on adding all of the repeaters within a 100-200 mile radius of me in the event that I would want to use one when travelling throughout my state. I was able to do this with Chirp Next, the only problem now though is I can't tell which repeater is which as there is no descriptor or unique identifier on my screen other than the frequency and transmit tones. I don't have the repeaters memorized either. How many repeaters do you all keep in your memory channels? Do you guys memorize the repeater info when travelling to an area where there are repeaters you want to use? Or do you print out a list and keep it with your radio? Interested to see how others go about this process.

I had a bunch of COM Port issues on Windows 10 running different CPM's for my Hytera Radios.. Found a solution on Hytera forum, ComPortMan (free) will manage your comm ports and not allow conflicts. Runs in the background, never had comm port issues since.

I have two Heltec V3s set up on MeshCore. One as a repeater up about 25 feet and the other as a node here in the shack. This works differently because nodes do not repeat everything they hear so the channel does not get polluted with repeat packets. My MeshCore repeater is in Belmont Michigan. If you are near by and want to try MeshCore with your LORA rig...

Similar but different from Meshtastic. Has anyone tried this. The setup was much easier than Meshtastic.

As previously mentioned, check your Device Manager with the radio connected and turned on and see what Com Port was selected. The Windows 11 will pick the Com Port for you. If you see the Com Port selected for the radio, go into the appropriate programming software for your Firmware version and go to the "Set" pull down and select "Set Com". In the box, it should reflect the comm port according to the Device Manager and if not, click on the Pull Down for the Port Setting and select that Port and click "OK", you should be good to go and make sure that in the Radio Menu the "USB" setting displays "On".

Are you using the Midland Programming Software Version 1.04 for the 30 channel firmware or the Version 2.01 for the 128 channel firmware? Are you running the old Firmware version (30 Channel) or the new Firmware version (128 Channel) in your radio?

The BTECH 25x4 uses HT finals, overdriven to 20 watts or so. My UHF went out on mine. I still use it for 220. It also has memory issues now, that I finally got ironed out. Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

You could try to use ARTEMIS Offline Signal Identification to identify it. Download at ARTEMIS Download . Set a filter to 462MHz to listen to signal samples known (76 at the moment) to be available in the band, click through them and listen to the audio sample and hopefully you will find a match. Listen in particular to the samples of the obvious choices first - NXDN, DMR, P25, Motorola. Ignore obvious ones that are not relevant in the US like NMT, PAL, RTS-9TS, etc. Here's a Techminds video of how to use ARTEMIS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_8Y_4FvoHI

I'm glad I can help! Definitely my pleasure. We do still use 73 to send someone Best Wishes... it's much appreciated, and 73 to you too, my friend. Looking forward to following along with your most recent radio journey!

Also, keep in mind, as you switch between GMRS and Ham, the memory channels and custom programing gets completely wiped. While you can switch between the two on the fly, keep the phone handy so you can quickly reload your settings after the switch. Wow! Thats REALLY great to know! Maybe I'll just talk to the "Minister of Finance" (My wife) and see if I can just keep these for GMRS, and buy the other set for Ham. They're much more affordable than back in my Ham days. I remember saving up for months just to buy Yaesu or Icom radios. marcpaz I appreciate your patience with me on this one. You've taken a lot of the frustration out of dealing with this. Do people still say "73's"? If they do, sending them your way! Have a blessed Sunday!

Would that go on for more than an hour?

That makes sense.

This sounds like a text message being sent via rattlegram from a phone through the radio. We do it all the time when we are in a tactical mode, but encrypt the transmission with AES 256 so we know no one can break the code without the master key. Just an observation.....

With a 30 second period it sounds like it’s part of some signaling system. For a while various devices were sold that used FRS/GMRS frequencies for non personal radio purposes. Baby monitors, home weather stations, etc. Perhaps it’s something like that. Nothing prevents transmitting multiple CTCSS tones simultaneously with strings of data that include DTCSS codes, especially if those codes are being used to carry other data rather than access codes. Because they’re very short and audible CTCSS tones and DTCSS codes are extremely simple to inadvertently include in a transmission if a transmitter isn’t explicitly filtering them out. Our radios do that; they intentionally filter them out before adding specific ones in while transmitting. Someone’s home control system easily might not. Given the fact that you are able to anticipate when it’s going to be heard you should be able to track it.

I'm not near by... but this meter is "good enough" for GMRS users... this only works with analog signals, but gives you the SWR, power, and confirms frequency. Used one for uses with no issues. https://www.amazon.com/Surecom-Gam3Gear-SW-102S-Connector-125-525Mhz/dp/B01M7QPXEY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3RFKA6QH45YCA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZkiREUuZSuQ_oim0vPoJNR_XM8V107XuS6AWXOeokubOCdVxUszbsKjYfCMesBgDp0ED-JqnC3OpZFW4o_g9PGSBkuFL2j4IZPFk3CoqQtXtTVcZmhLNCalFueW19_w8c_4aN7j73w3ESPkSo0BJvTbPjalgndvePMuQ2l0yo3jX7dG8rO5j-O0JV9tGiqv6ffrbIlMX1j7L9krlfPTsdVUze1ei91Y1hHXdZF5Vv4eu5WRuQWdoCfWU-CP7j7Xpw2aAIDmENQU2G5jxHgEz9A0hxumCAdjtYy0YxWKpLHs.38rQMOMVtYmxFlocGEF6qZuGHBYm0il4_YdCDkAtnWY&dib_tag=se&keywords=sw-102+meter&qid=1753635739&s=electronics&sprefix=sw-102+meter%2Celectronics%2C65&sr=1-2

Very good point.

@GeeTee Sounds good. Honestly, I think the inability to switch the GMRS version on the fly is an FCC compliance thing. The amateur radio version has no such constraints. If you plan on switching between the two, I would get the Ham version, too. A couple of things to know about... the Amateur version covers continuous transmit and receive from 136MHz to 599.995MHz. This means, if programed accordingly, you can use the unlocked (Normal) firmware option of the Amateur radio version to talk on 2m Ham, MURS, 1.25m, 70cm, and FRS/GMRS all on the same load. I am not publicly encouraging anyone to ignore FCC regs... this is just an FYI. The radio has a lot of range and you can mistakenly transmit on frequencies assigned to local/state/federal government, local Emergency Services, businesses, and about 1 megahertz of overlap for airlines and Air Traffic Control from 136.000 to 136.975. Be cautious when programing and transmitting. Also, keep in mind, as you switch between GMRS and Ham, the memory channels and custom programing gets completely wiped. While you can switch between the two on the fly, keep the phone handy so you can quickly reload your settings after the switch.

Posted 9 minutes ago My bad... I did mean PTT/*/Power on in the original post. (Humble apologies). I've been using the mobile ODMaster app to make changes. I downloaded it from the Google Play store a couple of days ago, so hopefully its the most up to date version. I did purchase a transfer cable so I could use the website to update from my pc if needed. What you're saying makes sense. Being new at this I may have inadvertently loaded the wrong firmware in the mobile app. I was going to try that cloning suggestion you gave me last night and use the unprogrammed radio to restore the one I've been playing with. I do want to have the capability of using Ham and GMRS at some point so I am going to return these radios. However, you've piqued my curiousity, and I am going to give your most recent suggestion a shot here in a few minutes. I greatly appreciate all the help! I'll let you know how it goes!

Sorry... I was not implying you did change the firmware or that there was/is a firmware issue. I mentioned what I did as a caution, advising against possibly changing the firmware that is preloaded on the device, as a possible solution. Also, there are three different firmware versions loaded on the radio's permanent storage, and you can pick which three you want to use... which you obviously already understand that. At least to some degree. In your original post, you said you tried pressing the Bluetooth button, the * (lock) button and turning the power on, which is not the correct method You have to press and hold the primary PTT and the * (lock) buttons while turning the power on, and then hold those buttons until the boot-loader loads the firmware menu. So, can you confirm which method you used? Also, I have read in several groups that some models of the TD-H3 Plus do not support the aforementioned method of switching between modes/firmware. I have read repeatedly that PTT/*/power only works on the Amateur Radio version... not the GMRS version. New approach. What version of the ODMaster software are you using? The web-based version or did you download the mobile app? You can force the App to load the program data for the wrong radio and all kinds of odd stuff can happen. If you are using the app, that is likely what happened. I would open the app and create a fresh/new GMRS program file for the radio that is blank, using the TD-H3 Plus template. From there, connect to the radio with the ODMaster app (not the web version), connect to the radio with whatever model from the drop-down allows a connection, and push the blank GMRS configuration to the radio. Do NOT do a read first... just push with a Write function. That should fix it and make it so you have the proper boot screen, too. Then you can program as desired. Now, if you want to switch from GMRS to Ham, you have to use a programing cable and download the TIDRadio CPS software. You can't switch the GMRS version on the fly.