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I guess some of you didn't see the $100 total limit that I have. The RT 880 will probably be the one I'll go with if I get anything at all.

Yes. Most people are not going around listening with the app at-hand ready to decode what you're saying.. and, it's not really meant to be "secure" anyway.

Well when you put it that way, it makes all the difference! We are all very impressed! But if you REALLY want to impress us, show us that you are smart enough to know your audience and make your point like a normal person.

Except for the people a mile or so away using their 0.5 watt FRS radios that’s getting hammered by your 5 watts. You can’t hear them, but they’re very likely can hear you. Does that still make it OK? You didn’t hear it. Given equal radio receiver sensitivity then range can be limited by the square root of the ratios of the transmitter powers. So 5 watts verses 0.5 watts could result in a range increase of 3.16 to 1 in favor of the 5 watt radio.

OK, so about this Rattlegram thing. I still don't quite get how this can be more than a geewiz thing. The radio(s) still need to be able communicate with each other so why not just talk? I suppose if audio sucks maybe. More secure I guess, but if someone has the app and is using the same codes they can see the messages too. Or am I missing something?

R and L Electronics has the 991A at $1148 which is FAR cheaper than Amazon, that I don't suggest for Any kind of radio equipment. Also the 991A is a REAL radio compared to that talkie.

I've got a Hytera repeater. My Ham friend that turned me onto the remote switch was over the other day messing with my CPM. He figured out how to set up the repeater to monitor via the web anywhere and also shut it down through Hytera RDAC software he found on the web. The remote shut down via the Phone App is still a little easier but the RDAC offer complete remote monitoring. Cool stuff.

Radios are like guns or fishing poles, etc, etc, you can never have enough. I have two VHF/UHF radios in the shack, one is for daily use while the other is dedicated for WINLINK. I will be putting the second one along with a mini computer into a go box. I also have a 50 watt GMRS radio along with a spare 20 watt GMRS radio at home along with multiple amateur band and GMRS hand held radios. Plus I have dual band and GMRS radios in my Ford Escape, Ford F150 and my Honda Pioneer 500 SxS. I might end up putting one of the G90s into one of my vehicles. I haven't decided yet.

Hit up Tim at BCI communications in Tampa (I-75 and MLK). He's not to far from you and has a bunch of Rohn tower sections and stuff for sale at a fair price in decent condition. His eBay name is twowaytech if you want to look him up.

The main reason why I have two of them is that I bough one and then won the second G90 during Radioddity's 12th Anniversary drawing last year. And yes one stays in the shack while the other one is in my go box for portable use. I actually have more HF radios than I need. I have the two G90 radios along with an Ion IC-7300, Yaesu FTDX10 (with bad USB port) and a Xiegu X6200. The X6200 is nice for QRP ad keeping things small and light.

Are you using the simplex channel that you hear the repeater on or are you on a repeater channel? Power is seldom the problem or solution.

Try it on different channels. See what the SWR is on the channels you transmit on the most. Don’t forget the 467 MHz main channels. To answer your other question, you can tune the antenna by lengthening or shortening it. Changing the location of the mount can also affect the SWR. Antennas have a dip at a single frequency where they’re tuned best. An antenna analyzer helps you know whether the antenna is too long or too short. There’s nothing wrong with 1.75:1.

One for a go box and one for the car or one for the house, etc. You can never have too many radios.

If I'm unwilling to put WiFi into my show why would I put Starlink in? I use my phone as a hotspot while I'm there. As soon as I leave no more internet. And since I'm there I could just flip the power switch.

Starlink...

Hello All! New to GMRS and having a blast learning and getting gear together. I recently did a install on Gen 3 Tacoma and I am getting a SWR of 1.75. Below is my build. Looking for some suggestions on how to get the SWR a bit lower, or being what it is, maybe just accept the 1.75 and call it good. Appreciate all suggestions! Equipment Utilized: Btech GMRS50-Pro - https://baofengtech.com/product/gmrs-50pro/ Midland MXTA24 NMO - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0842B1WFS MIdland MXTA26 Antenna - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084BPXNC5 Ditch Light Bracket - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FG7P4DWY With a 3/8" Stainless Steel washer for fitment. Surcom Sw-102S - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7QPXEY NMO Mount to Ditch bracket. Recognize the antenna is not perfectly straight up and is at an angle, I'll try to figure out how to get this mount more straight up, but the way my ditch light bracket is, this may not be easily achievable. I then ran it across the engine bay and then into the cabin through a gromet. Both the power and NMO cable were tucked under panels. I then created a mount for the BTECH GMRS50-PRO and connected everything behind the drivers side backseat storage. Current readings on meter. Once BTECH releases their Mic extension, i will run the mic extension wire from the back panel to the front drivers seat, so i can control the whole radio via the BTECH mic remote. Thanks!

Pretty much what this switch is.. But in DC fashion because my repeater runs on Solar DC

pretty hard not too now days.. Hell, I got two ISP services.

I figured out an easy way to do it if your repeater doesn't have a stun or kill function built in. https://www.amazon.com/AD22B04-Signal-Decoder-Channel-Control/dp/B07L6H6BDQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Program the decoder and connect it to a relay which powers the repeater. Send out the code and it activates the latching relay which disconnects power. Only way to re-power is physically reactivate the self latching relay. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- To program the AD22B04 12V Decoder 4 Channel DTMF Tone Relay, you'll need to use a DTMF (Dual-Tone Multi-Frequency) signaling device like a phone or computer with DTMF output. First, ensure the device is powered on and in operating mode. Then, press the "key" button on the board to enter setting mode (the power LED will turn off). Finally, use your DTMF device to send the new command sequence (e.g., "#4*" to set channel 4 to a new code) followed by * or # to confirm the change. Detailed Steps: 1. Power and Setup: Connect the AD22B04 to a stable 12V power supply. Ensure the audio cable from your DTMF device is connected correctly. If using a phone, make sure the receiver has a 3.5mm audio jack and isn't muted. If using software on a computer, ensure it outputs DTMF tones and isn't muted. 2. Enter Setting Mode: Press the "key" button on the AD22B04 once. The power LED will turn off, indicating it's in setting mode. 3. Program the Relay: Identify the relay: Let's say you want to program channel 4. You will be using the command #4*. Enter the new code: Dial the DTMF sequence for the desired relay (e.g., for channel 4, the default is 4). Then, dial * to confirm. If you want to change the code for channel 4, dial the new code and then *. Example: If you want to change the code for channel 4 to "1234", you would dial #41234*. 4. Confirm and Exit: After entering the new code, press the key button again or power cycle the board to save the settings. The LED should turn on. Important Notes: The default commands are 1, 2, 3, and 4 for channels 1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively. You can program up to four digits for each relay. If you forget your programmed commands, you can reset the device by holding the key button for about 10 seconds until the LED lights up again, restoring the default commands. The AD22B04 can be used in different operating modes like Non-locking (Momentary), Self-locking (Toggle), and Inter-locking (Latch), which affects how the relays respond to the DTMF commands.

Permission to ask a potentially stupid question? Why would one have a "couple" of G90's? I understand redundancy. "One is none, two is one" kind of thing, but outside of that, what don't I know? Go easy, I'm new.

No WiFi where my repeater is.

6M is still VHF, it's just low VHF 50.0 to 54.0 MHz. 6m is generally good for local communication but is definitely hit or miss when it comes to long distance coms. It isn't called the magic band for nothing. Too bad the Xiegu G90 does not have 6m capabilities. I have a couple G90s and they work great for a 20 watt radio. I get comments on how my audio sounds all of the time. And I have worked stations with it and good resonant antenna that guys running a 100 watt radio with a not so good antenna don't hear. My next project is to mount a 15" portable monitor, TYT TH-7800, mini PC, and a couple of 10 AH batteries into an Apache 5800 case for portable WINLINK.

That's what I use to turn my repeater on/off.. Costed $22, took 30 seconds to setup, and I can control it from anywhere.

I had been addressing my three kids as "you jokers, smokers, and midnight tokers", which was fun until my 7 year old asked what a midnight toker was. Didn't think my cunning plan all the way through. I just said "it's from a song" and played Steve Miller Band until he quit asking questions.

And if your repeater is AC power based (as many are) just get a wifi smart plug. Easy Peasy.