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I used this stuff on top of the self sealing tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZMZV4K1?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

Just noticed as well, in my original post i did have a photo showing the setup.

Ah i see now. No it is a LED ditch light which is on the truck. can't see the entire light in this photo, but you can see how the bracket shares the mount.

Make sure they do a good job of waterproofing the connections.

Thanks again guys for all of your help! I got it from Buy Two Way Radios.com. Messi & Paoloni Hyperflex 10 Premium .400" Pre-assembled Coax - UHF Male (PL259) Connectors Cable Length 50 ft. for $113.00 with shipping. Now I just got to find some one to go back up my tower..

I was looking through the ad listings on eBay and found one for a very sophisticated microphone. It has a DSP chip builtin for background noise, wind noise, siren etc. elimination. Some of my radios also have some basic DSP builtin. For example my TK-D74A has a basic 5 band audio equalizer for TX and RX. Other commercial grade radios have selections for audio filtering, high/normal/low pass, and audio leveling, on TX and RX for digital modes. This is something I haven't seen on the cheap CCR's. So any cheap CCR's out there that has user configurable DSP features?

Examples? Many Amateur Operators are what can be called "Appliance Operators" They know how things work, especially radios, but not why they work. Enjoy the world of Amateur Radio, it's been a fun ride for me since '92 although my work with two way radios goes back into the mid 70's. Every contact you make can bring you new things!

In my mind I was thinking of those rolls of LEDs that you lay out. In reality he probably meant a shop light style fixture with LED lights in it which would mean the driver is surrounded by metal already. The cheap power supplies that drive LEDs are usually noisy and get pretty hot when driven to max. Whenever I build with them I like to make sure there's a few amps in reserve basically to keep the driver from putting out max current keeping it cool and it's life longer. Putting it in a metal container might make the heating worse.

Thanks so much! Ordering it now.

I believe Leo was recommending enclosing the driver/power supply for the LED lights, not replacing the wooden mount for the radio that you made.

I was in our electronics lab once working on a project. Some mention was made about drunks on the street. I referred to them as "Stumble Bums." Well I got one of those "WTF is that" looks. Makes you feel old.

Yes

So the Messi and Paoloni UltraFlex 10 Coax Cable Should work great for me?

In my home system I run the M&P Hyperflex13 out to the lightning arrester and then 1/2" Heliax up to the antenna. At the shop I run my repeater and that has TMW LMR400. I'm getting a nearly perfect SWR with the M&P/Heliax with a CA712ECF antenna while at the shop with the LMR400 and a Retevis MA09 antenna I'm getting a 1.76 SWR. I think that has been going up since I put it in. I pretty much have zero water protection on that system, just the aluminum tube that surrounds the fitting of the antenna for protection. Water infiltration is a possibility.

Gig dose not have 50' available but buytwoway has Messi & Paoloni Ultraflex 10 Premium .400" Pre-assembled Coax - UHF Male (PL259) Connectors. Is this what I should get? I want it to work well. Thanks so much for your help. Sig

Connecticut.

I suppose I could fabricate a metal enclosure vs the thrown together wood mount i did. The wood mount was made with just left of materials i had which was part of the fun, and fits surprisingly perfect.

Yeah I will do that next. I very rarely use these ditch lights anymore, so I am not concerned with running them at the same time. Considered even taking them off, but since they are already wired up, i left them on.

I swapped the Stainless steel washer from the bottom to the top of the mount. Tightened it down as tight as it will go. Teeth are closer, but not digging in to the bracket. Looks like the teeth are not pointed up, they are more pointed out. Perhaps without the stainless steel washer i can get closer, but I am needing to use a stainless steel washer because the mount i received has a .7" hole vs a 3/8" required for the NMO mount. Ran test again with this setup and no visible changes in swr. I can explore getting a bracket designed specifically wiith a 3/8" (midland sells one but its like $25 vs the $8 i spent), but i am not sure if i will see any changes in swr.

I've been messaging with Eddie for the last couple of days on this site. I had no idea a repeater was being planned. A buddy of mine called me up and let me know about it. I haven't really used it yet, but it sounds pretty good. At 1.5 miles away, you could work it with 1/4 watt. LOL

If those were the only two choices and money were no object, I would go with Times-Microwave, every time. The Times-Microwave LMR-400 is the original which created the standard. All other companies that make a 0.400 inch diameter cable called something like it (such as BR-400) are insinuating that their coax is equivalent. Some actually make cables that test as good while selling for less. They will be sold by companies that are not Amazon. Nothing wrong with Amazon, but the buyer has to bring some expertise. However, there are some concerns about LMR-400: First, the original has a single solid center conductor that makes it stiff. Times-Microwave solved that by manufacturing a cable that has a stranded center conductor called LMR-400 UF (for Ultra Flexible). Second, some people have concerns about the mixture of metals in the shielding, especially for repeater use. They claim the contact points of the different metals in the different layers of shielding create thousands of tiny semiconductor junctions. I have never seen proof of that, but other companies make coax that use pure copper for every layer of shielding. One of the best known is an Italian company named Messi & Poloni. They make a cable (M&P Hyperflex 10) that tests every bit as well as LMR-400, and sells for about the same price as LMR-400. But there are others as well. ABR400, DX400, etc. The list of high quality 0.400 cables that are reasonable alternatives to the original LMR-400 is long. I have never heard that BR400 listed as one of them. I also would stay away from KMR400 as sold on Amazon. Personally, I have several lengths of M&P and a few of ABR-400. I bought my M&P from Gigaparts, but one of the online vendors that sells mostly Chinese radios also sells it for a decent price, maybe Buytwowayradios.com? Or you can order it direct from Italy. They’ll put it together to your specs and ship it very quickly directly to you. I’m sure this probably adds even more to your uncertainty. Asking which is the best cable is like taking a philosophy course in college. Here’s a link to the Gigaparts web page for Hyperflex 10: https://www.gigaparts.com/messi-and-paoloni-hyperflex-10-coax-cable.html#close

I foget your in Maine ? Where abouts ?

So what is the better on to go with? The Browning BR-400 or Times Microwave Low Loss Coaxial Cable - LMR-400? Thanks for your help.

I've been listening to Ed(?) test the repeater over the last 2 weeks. His transmissions are pegging my meter (I'm only 1.5 miles from the repeater ). He published the repeater to the myGMRS database: https://mygmrs.com/repeater/10670

wait tell you find pet skunk in your kids bedroom