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If you have a line on a TK-880H, I recommend that you get it. I'm quite sure you will never regret it. I also recommend the standard TK-880. You can turn the power down internally. The service manual (which is available all over the Internet as a free pdf) shows how to do it. If I were you I would just get a standard TK-880 and set the high power to the minimum that does what you need; whether that be 25 watts, 15 watts or whatever. Then if you are ever able to upgrade your antenna system, you can turn the power down further.

Both have CTCSS and DCS. Some repeaters in metro areas may require a different CTCSS or DCS code on the input than the output, and others may use DCS in their input, and CTCSS on their output (provides a slightly higher level of protection form unauthorized access). This mixed-code capability is often a differentiator on some radios. Kenwood will do this, and I think Btech will as well (not confirmed). Not sure if any of your repeaters even operate this way. But if you listen in carrier squelch it won't matter. Kenwood has a reputation for great sounding audio, but Btech does not seem too bad either. I don't think your comparison will be significant. Suggestion: even in some emergencies, most radios are in "standby" (not transmitting or receiving). As a result, the most dominant component of power draw over time can be its standby power, not its power draw during transmit if the radio will be powered up 24/7 (alas - btech does not provide this spec; its 0.4A standby, 1.0A on receive for TK880). Tough call.... Greg

What software are you using? If it is CHIRP, go to the link below. I posted a bit in there that should help. https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/1639-using-chirp-to-program-gmrs-repeater-into-handheld/ Do yourself a favor. Unless the radio isn't critical and is being used in a rough/dirty environment that will likely break radios due to contaminant exposure, don't by any of the following brands... TYT QYT BTech BaoFeng LEIXEN Retevis Zastone EasyTalk (EZTalk) Rivins HYS TALKCOOP Radioddity SAMCOMM BACKCOUNTRY ANSOKO TIDRADIO BOCOTRAN ANYSECU Stryker TWAYRDIO Ailunce There are more to stay away from... but I think you get were I am going with this. And if you are tight on cash... that is an even better reason to stay away from them. CCR's are cheap for a reason. And its not because they are reliable or good performers. Don't waste your money.

No, the specs aren't guaranteed anywhere. We'd see at least some kind of transmitter certification in that case (Radioddity says it has an FCC ID of POD-ANG7, but that gies to a completely different radio). These usually end up as business radios in other parts of the world where FCC type acceptance isn't needed (look at all the DTMF signaling features), so they're usually designed for optimim performance in the 440-460 MHz range. 460 MHz is roughly in the middle of its bandsplit too, and 470 MHz is not far off compared to its transmitter's range. I'd expect transmit quality to start to deviate from spec below 425 MHz or above 480 MHz, and only in transmit power level. The majority of the transmitter circuitry and virtually all of the receiver circuitry is on a single IC whose performance is guaranteed (to a fairly low bar) across that range. Once RF comes out of that chip, it just needs to be filtered and amplified. One of those tasks is more expensive than the other, so that critical step is often not to FCC spec on these classes of radios. Filtering is rarely omitted entirely, but also rarely sufficient to exceed the 50-dB-under-carrier spec with enough margin to account for production variability. The cross-band repeat will also intermodulate with the third harmonic of the VHF side, which would guarantee it'd fail FCC testing; but that feature would not even be allowed on a type-accepted radio in the first place.

You can purchase Belden products in many colors, easy to match the color of barrel tile, shingle or trim colors. a Mag mount antenna can be attached to any steel exhaust, kitchen or bathroom vent. Although not an ideal ground plane, again will out preform any indoor deployment. You will be amazed what you can make happen. Especially if you have the extra cash for the upgrades.

780 and 880 are basically the same radio and software, just one is VHF and one UHF. When you install the program, go to Model-Model Information. This will open a small window. Under Model Type, Select TK880 Mobile Frequency should be K (450-490) Format you want Conventional Options, If you have an ANI board you can select it, Scrambler is not needed. Now the software is set for the 880 and will let you enter UHF frequencies into it Also note, the same software does the 981 (900 mhz radio) Just select that model radio and your set. Im not sure how the 900 MHz stuff works though as it only seems to let me select "trunking" so you'll need to ask someone else for that. Also if you get an error message about the radio software, and when you turn the radio on you get version 1.5xxxx let me know and Ill send you the correct firmware. Some radios were updated to passport which the kenwood software doesnt like at all. Any other questions feel free to ask

Make sure you have the software set for the correct COM port on your computer, or it will not work. You may need to go into the computer's hardware manager to determine what COM port is assigned to that cable, but it will likely not be the COM-1 port that the software will try to use by default. Some of my programming cables come up as COM-3, and at least one comes up as COM-5 on my programming computer. The software must be set to the correct port to match the cable. It will not find it automatically.

I'm curious as to the HOA restrictions. The FCC has ruled against many associations having rules against external antennas. If that is the underlying issue, send a copy of the association's rules to the FCC Wireless Telecommunications Bureau and ask them for a ruling. It may be their rules violate FCC regulations and are now unenforceable.

I agree with keeping the power as low as possible. The reason I ask about your existing antenna is a 1/4 wave ground plane on top of your house will probably outperform an omnidirectional gain antenna in your attic. And it's not hard to hide one. I make them out of panel connectors and thin copper wire. A thin 6" wire is almost impossible to spot on a roof, especially if you give the connector a light spray of flat brown or black paint.