WSAM454

Glad you found the problem, and that it was not you! As for programming, make sure that the data cable is securely plugged into the side socket on the radio. When you get it working, their program is fine. Be sure you download the one for the KG-1000+ version of the radio, not the older 'non +' one.

Message withdrawn, I can't delete completely.

M&P is about the only "upgrade" from LMR400, unless you go to hardline! This site will custom make the M&P in the length you specify, with or without connectors: https://www.buytwowayradios.com/messi-paoloni-mp-uf10-mr.html

You should be happy with the M&P coax, which actually has a bit less loss than LMR400 but is not as widely known (yet!) Comet antennas are pretty well regarded, so the station should perform well. Curious to learn the final results in a few weeks.

Yes, SWR is a transmit function, but losing 3 dB is still signal loss, so yes, the length of the cable WILL effect receive!

Actually, it could be the cable, since I have found that sometimes a radio will receive well UNTIL the outer part of the PL-259 connector touches the barrel of the SO-239. To test SWR, you need a device. The most common is an SWR/Wattmeter such as the very popular and relatively inexpensive one that usually goes by the name Surecom SW-102 UV. (about $60 on Amazon) It must be a meter that will work on the GMRs freqs, which are referred to as UHF. If you are not very technically inclined, then I would suggest only the first 6 or so posts in this discussion, and don't get carried away with the rest of the 2 pages! https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/7312-budget-friendly-swr-meter/ If you find the SWR is very high, that may point to a cable/mount problem. If you can borrow another antenna to test the mount, that would also help give more information. Looking more closely at your video, are you sure that is an NMO mount? It looks like your antenna is screwing into an SMA connector, like is used on the top of a hand held radio. Can you remove the entire black part (down to the black rubber washer) and still have something that looks like this mounted to the metal bracket?

Have you checked transmit SWR with the antenna outside, in the clear? You are removing the antenna 'whip' but not its entire NMO mount; could there be a problem with the cable or the actual NMO mount? (either the antenna's mount or the car's mount.) Can you try another NMO mount antenna to see if it may be in the feedline or the mount itself?

If you have regularly have backyard BBQs, I doubt that you will open them up to anyone who may be passing by, although you may be more generous than the average person. As Gortex said, if you are spending the money to get the equipment in place, licensed, and maintained, then you should be able to have some control over who and how it is used. Bottom line is that although years ago Motorola called CTCSS "Private Line" it really isn't totally private!

Flagpole is a good possibility; I do not think HOAs are allowed to control your ability to fly a flag.

If you use their bluetooth program, you can customize the two side buttons (long and short press) and the top button (also long and short press) for a total of 6 settings. Not a whole lot of options to choose from, but you can include NOAA, flashlight, FM broadcast radio, monitor, and a few others that way. Try long and short presses of each button, and maybe that way you can find the light. Also, if you discover the NOAA button, remember that they have a number of freqs that you will have to scroll through to find the one nearest you.

Yes, if you are making the repeater reliably, then anyone who is listening to the repeater will be able to hear your conversation. Again, even if the repeater was crystal clear to you, your low power handheld might not be actually 'holding' the repeater with a good enough signal to be understood. Usually though, if you had tried and were very noisy, one of the others in the conversation would mention that there is a station that is not making the repeater, although sometimes the other users just ignore the station, thinking it is only there to cause interference. The polite thing would be to acknowledge the noisy station. Check your settings to make sure that you are programmed correctly; receive freq, transmit freq with correct offset (+5) and if any tone is needed for repeater access. (CTCSS, aka "PL.") Definitely see if you can hear your transmission using your second radio ( located at least a few hundred feet distant from the one transmitting) to see if you are actually making it in.

Can you clarify what you mean here? How do you hear yourself transmit when the ptt button is released? Do you mean you hear the 'tail' of the repeater for a second or so after you stop transmitting? If that is the case, then possibly you are able to key the repeater, but your signal is too noisy for the audio to be understood. Try this: Have someone listen to the repeater on one of your radios while you transmit, but do so from another location, at least a few hundred feet from the other radio, and have that listener see if you are actually keying and holding and being understood by the repeater. The repeater's transmit coverage might be very good, but your low power HT might not have enough power to make it in reliably from your location. Being able to hear the repeater does not mean that it will be able to 'hear' you.

Not sure I understand. You mentioned testing with a mobile. If you are trying to work a mobile, then trying to aim the antenna will be challenging. Even a 5 element antenna will have a relatively narrow beam width requiring careful aiming. You said the yagi performed similarly to the Tram, which is an omnidirectional antenna. The yagi, properly aimed, should outshine the vertical. Perhaps a larger (7-10 elements) beams at both ends would be better. If you are trying to receive another base station then you will have to aim carefully.

Since the GMRS yagi is mounted vertically (vertically polarized), it could be a problem if the mast was in the middle of the antenna, but most of the GMRS yagis I have seen are mounted from the rear, so the metal mast should not be a problem, since most likely there is enough spacing between the first element and the mast mounting area.

If your home will have an "attic" space, then that would be the highest point you will have it you can't mount the antenna outside. If it is a crawl space type, then your best bet may be a mobile type or a "J-pole" type antenna in that space. Appliance/HVAC wiring through that space can possibly interfere with your reception (or the radio can interfere with the appliances) so it still may not be ideal. Yes, read all the HOA info very carefully! There may be appearance objections to an 'unsightly' antenna, or health objections, to having a 'dangerous' RF source in the community. Good luck!