WRAK968
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Posts posted by WRAK968
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Thank you
so much I receiver more Information from you then mygmrs.net everyone who purchase a kit should receive more information on the kit. I'm going plug the raspberry pi into the router, unplug from my cat6 port switch now.
Thank again
The cat6 port shouldn't matter, if you have active connections through the switch then the pi should work as well. Also dont forget to add the port forwards to allow incoming signals to be sent to the pi. I'll send you a note with the numbers as for hacking reasons, this info is not posted publicly (to my knowledge)
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*1xxxxx = Disconnect
*2xxxxx = Monitor only (you can hear them, they cant hear you)
*3xxxxx = Connect
*70 = Status
*811xxxxx = Permanent Disconnect
*812xxxxx = Permanent Monitor
*813xxxxx = Permanent Connect
169 Midwest Region
172 Northeastern region
174 Southeastern Region
175 Southern Plains region
176 Southwestern region
177 Mountain region (West Coast)
Ensure you have a good internet connection (preferred wire-line internet over wifi. DO NOT USE BOTH, it confuses the program)
For more info on regional hubs, please visit https://mygmrs.com/netsAny more questions, feel free to ask
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https://shop.mygmrs.com/collections/repeaters-and-accessories/products/repeater-linking-bundle
this is how I did it. was all plug and play -
Well, berkinet's post is sobering. I did, however, want to thank jec6613 for the tips. Great stuff and very educational. I'm not relying solely on GMRS for punching out an emergency message, but reminders like yours are always smart. The more systems I have, the better off I am. And if the jammer is indeed reading this, if he or she actually can read, not all gmrs transmissions are routine work or pleasure related. In my case that repeater could be lifesaving. If you're jamming it when (God forbid) I need it, I will indeed invest in that doppler system, locate your home and engage an ambulance-chasing attorney to recover that investment in gear, attorney fees, court costs and damages—and I've never, ever done something like that in my life, but when deliberate stupidity jeopardizes my family...I apologize to the fine regulars here for my terse tone and promise to avoid doing so again, dang it.
A word of warning. I am a licensed security rep, DON'T EVER CONFRONT SOMEONE IN PERSON to make a legal threat. Too many crazy people who would just pull a trigger to get rid of you. Catching or stopping a jammer is not worth your life.
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John: As said previously, I do have a 2 minute timer (likely saved the machine.) I have removed the tones from public view, as much as I did not want to do so. Dad (Co-owner) and I are considering doing the split tone option to stop anymore intentional jamming. Just sucks that once again, one idiot has to ruin things for others. Gonna wait and see if they jam the machine tonight and go from there.
LScott: That would be the ultimate irony wouldn't it. -
And someone is keying the repeater again.
Never understand why people feel the need to do this stuff. -
What is funny in a couple of years these yahoos will probably asking permissions to use the repeater once they get a clue.
hahaha, sad but true
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Lscott: I've seen the 4 antenna system in use for fox hunting, its an interesting bit of equipment. The doppler is a new one to me though. I'll have to look it up!
Guysagi: It is unfortunate that some will ruin things for others. I never fully understood the mentality behind it other than to just cause grief. These people would likely walk past a burning building and pretend they didn't see it. And on behalf of repeater owners, I want to say Thank You. Its when we hear others who join in on the conversation and bring friends and family online that we know we did a good job. Even the smaller systems like mine can mean a big impact for others.
Tweiss: All of the WRAK968 repeaters are set to a 120 second TOT just for this reason. After two minutes the transmitter shuts down and you get a steady beep tone until the system stops receiving. I monitored the repeaters input and that's why I knew how long dipstick was transmitting.
Marc: Knowing the repeater range meant it would be efficient to see if I could hunt the signal. The fact that I could hear them TX on the input side from within my house meant they were very near by. My logic was to locate them, then call their location over the air when they let up in an attempt to scare the hell out of them, instead they saw the big mean truck with several antennas slow up in-front of their place, then return and stop on the second pass. As you said its all about the mind games. Still I am considering ways to reduce jamming in the future, I'll be speaking with my father who is a co-owner and see what he thinks and come up with a plan. -
All Greek to me but I went ahead and ordered it. Now... an antenna and cable. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... and of course another thread already has me wanting to try a Kenwood TK-8180 and I haven't even put power to my Midland.
I'm rationalizing though - the Midland could go in my wife's car.
sounds like you caught the bug, quick hide the paypal codes and credit cards LOL
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Here are some suggestions from somebody who had similar problems. http://www.repeater-builder.com/k7pp/art005.html
That was a good read and I agree about not confronting anyone. My goal was to at very least get a location to know where it was coming from and to do some research into what I was dealing with. Could have been a kid who didn't know what they were doing, or some adult who was annoyed he cant play radio with others. Figuring out what I'm dealing with helps determine how I should handle the situation. Do I replace the codes? Do I report an active license as an abuser? Do I do nothing? The more info I gather, and if the situation repeats on a regular basis, I will end up taking other actions to stop the jammer.
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Makes sense, and nice job.
I am a new General myself and learned about the group in my studies. Sounds like something I could have fun doing as well. I would love to undergo the training.
73s
Michael
WRHS965
KE8PLM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Its fun if you can afford the equipment, or if the target is easy and stays in one spot. It becomes harder when you cant spend $100 for a yagi and a dedicated radio/signal indicator. The pros use 5 antennas and a special computer which can tell them the direction and strength of the signal and even then you need to take several readings from an area and get several bearings before you get a good idea of where the signal is coming from. Its a bit out of budget for me though, even if I would enjoy doing it.
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You could do that, or buy a second power lead (I think they are $10 but dont hold me to it, I would need to research however I am about to head to work) Or direct wire (the power supply uses screw terminals) all are viable ways of doing it, just need to make sure you wire it correctly. Also note, you have mains voltage going into the same terminal. if you do not know how to wire 120VAC powerlines you may be better off letting a pro do it so you or anyone else doesnt get hurt.
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Its not used for GMRS, only for commercial repeater use. It basically compresses the signal to reduce bandwidth from my understanding of it.
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Great job tracking them down, and keeping a level head and avoiding the confrontation.
If it occurs again, and you have similar luck tracking them down once again, get photos (if possible), license plate information and address info to share with FCC.
Amateur’s also have an official FCC sanctioned group that specializes in such tracking. If you have ham friends, perhaps one of them could help to engage the local tracking team to help. It could be fun for them, and their word/work carries weight.
Michael
WRHS965
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The ham community is how I learned to fox hunt (the official term for it) Been a ham for 11 years now
If I had known I was gonna locate them as fast as I did I would have had camera ready but I didnt, at least I now know where they are so if it does happen again I can roll by with a camera running.
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Overthere, I can't prove they were the ones doing it, just coincidence for the most part, though I would say I am 99% sure. Most times the FCC wont get involved anyways.
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Also for the record, this was the site with the issue:
https://mygmrs.com/view?id=3027 -
Good afternoon/evening everyone. Hoping your Tuesday has gone well.
This afternoon I experienced my first intentional jamming incident on the repeater. It started as a few key-ups, however when my father asked if I was calling, this unknown individual chose to hold down the transmit button without speaking. They did this for 30 seconds, than a minute, then 5 minutes, then for 20 (Im sure their transmitter is toast now.) At first I suspected that maybe something was wrong on the RX side of the repeater, so I tuned my portable to the repeaters input frequency, and sure enough there was a signal. So my first action was to jump into my SUV and try to track it. I could clearly receive the signal from inside of my house on a portable, so the transmitter couldn't be too far away. Using both the truck radio and the portable I tracked it to a house about 4 blocks away where a group of young adults were standing in the driveway laughing. I could see an antenna on the pick-up in the driveway and one of them was holding what looked to be a portable radio. At that location, my portable was receiving a clear signal without an antenna and while laying next to my leg. As I drove by, they saw my vehicle and me looking at them and they panicked. By the time I drove around the block, they had removed the antenna from the roof of the pick-up, and all had gone inside, looking out a window for me, and they stopped transmitting.
Now, I would not recommend confronting anyone about radio jamming. There are too many crazy's in the world and really its not something to get shot over. I slowed in front of the house, and acted like I was taking down information, then drove away just to scare them a bit.
Upon getting home, I removed the access codes from the MyGMRS listing. (Its odd they just tuned directly to the DPL I set for the repeater) and over the next day or two I will begin changing the access tones for the repeater. I may even use a split tone just to reduce the likelihood of this happening again.Then I got curious, I wondered what other repeater owners have done during a jamming situation to protect their equipment and stop the jammers from getting in.
So to repeater owners out there, have you ever experienced jamming and how did you handle it?
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This is rather easy, Look for a way to route the wire from inside of the house to the outside (usually done through an eve or a vent) then what I did was mount the antenna to a vent pipe that stuck out of the roof. You could use zip ties as a temporary hold, or do what I did and buy 6" hose clamps from home depot. Thats rather easy.
As for the power supply, you want something that will supply at least 12-13VDC and 15-20 amps. It is recommended to use a radio power supply as it prevents noise from getting into your signal however I've had no issues with using a general PS.
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The link network requires internet access and a node controller. This allows RoIP or Radio over Internet Protocol and allows one repeater to trigger a series of other repeaters across an area.
The national net meets Sunday evenings and requires all participating repeaters to link to a regional hub, which then links to the national hub. Most if not all repeaters are disconnected from the national hub to prevent confusion, or to prevent a conversation in NJ from blocking use in CA. The system can at anytime be connected to one or more of the thousand or so repeaters across the country, it all depends on the owner and users.As for your last question, I don't know as I do not live out that way, sorry
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a way to have - one more way of Communications for people during emergencies
Ok, you need a power system that has back up power, either through a site generator or battery back-up. Any equipment used for emergency's needs to have back-up power so that the equipment is available during long term power outages. This includes things such as node controllers and internet modems/connections. You will also need to figure out how much battery power you will need.
Available to be used by all/ mobiles portable base use
Ok, you need someplace high that can overlook any areas you wish to communicate with the system. This rules out using a simple rooftop or TV mast mounted antenna. If you can find a tower site you'll be better off, however many times there are monthly fees for tower sites.ALL hills/mountains
The higher you get the better the system will work (in theory) Mounting a repeater on a hill or mountain top will increase range, however using high gain antennas could create dead areas below the repeater. Keep this in mind.
I think right now, my biggest feature I need is a way that "during emergencies" we can post to one of the repeaters and it can be head on all of them....
You need reliability and dependability. You'll need to find a repeater with a 100% duty cycle and back-up power ability's. You'll need good feed-line and antenna and reasonable bonding. You'll also want to come up with a contingency plan to keep the repeater running during any emergency's that come up.
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Well, seems like you did the first step which was to make sure there was no repeater in the area.
The next questions you need to answer:What do you want to get out of your repeater?
Who will be using it?
How will users be using it? (Portable, Base, mobile, Exc)
What kind of terrain do you have around you? (Flat, Buildings/trees, hills/mountains)
How much are you willing to spend?
What features would you like?
Answering these questions gives you a ballpark idea of what you will need and what you'll be spending.
My current set-ups include:
Repeater: (RKR1225/GR1225) This can be an RX/TX radio pair, but I like the cleaner all in one look.
Controller: if using an RX/TX radio pair (Again, repeaters have this all in one usually)Duplexer: and you'll want a good BP/BR duplexer as the "notch" type duplexers don't seem to get good service range.
Power supply: Can be a straight in power supply, I use a back-up power supply for one of the two repeaters in case the power goes out. Note, whatever power supply you use, it needs to be able to supply 12-13VDC at about 15-20amps depending on what your powering.
Line filter: If you get a buzz or hum during transmit, your power supply may be adding noise into the repeater, a line filter takes care of that.Jumpers: For connecting repeaters RX/TX to the duplexer
Feedline: As much as you need to get to your antenna,
Antenna: should be higher gain for repeaters.
Optional:
Mast/Tower: If your not on the top of a hill, and you have a lot of buildings or trees you may need to purchase and erect a mast or tower to give you extra height. Rule of thumb is for every doubling of antenna height, your range doubles.
Node controller: There are a few out there. MyGMRS sells them as well.
Radio interface for node controller: Need to connect to the radio somehow
Computer/Programming software/programing cable: For adjustments and programming of the repeater if you know how to do this.
Come up with a plan and RESEARCH before buying any equipment. -
Ok, I have looked over the code plug and even uploaded the code-plug to one of my radios and I found that my radios work just fine. They scan all 36 channels and stop on the channel I am transmitting on with no issue. I thought maybe the squelch setting was too high however Mike seems to have it set very low and still has the issue. I'm thinking this may be a radio issue itself and not the programming as it seems to be working just fine as is here.
To recap, Mikes radio will scan, however while scanning it does not stop on any of the 22 simplex channels UNLESS he is already tuned to that channel or its one of the repeater channels with a PL code, then the radio seems to hear it. I am thinking that perhaps the receiver is off frequency and may need to be re-tuned, or that there is an issue with the RX side of the board. Outside of those two things I'm fresh out of ideas, however I am 99% sure the code-plug is NOT the issue.
MDC-1200
in General Discussion
Posted
MDC can be used for ID, signal alerting, and messaging. Kenwood also has a version called Fleetsync which does much the same thing just a different format.