WRAK968
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Posts posted by WRAK968
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You need an old computer to program I bought a $39 Tower with Win-XP RSS is available online if you know where to look.
That much I do remember, I purchased an old toughbook with Windows xp pro just for programming older radios however the harddrive failed on it so I am waiting for a new drive and a friend to finish repairing it.
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Which models? There’s different packages for different models.
hhmmm not sure, The FCC ID is ABZ89FT4770 and it says the model number is D34LRA77A5DK if that help
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The Maxtrac RSS is not to be found on MOL.
If all you need is the 1225, it may not be worth the gyrations to set up an account.
Sorry I have two Motorola Radius series radios not maxtrac. I would like to get them programmed up and working, however Im not sure which RSS it needs. Last RSS I did try it mentioned I needed some extra code (not the code plug but an add on software for the radio itself) Not sure where to go with that.
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I dont need CPS though, just software for the 1225 series radios, and a friend just asked me about programming maxtrac.
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How exactly does one sign up for MOL? Whenever I look it up on google it seems to only give me the main website.
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101010 is binary for 42. I've heard the chinese radios using 110, 010, 119, 111, and 991. Usually the emergency/panic button is a 3 digit number, and will include the ANI which is a 3 or 4 digit number used to identify the radio. So, if I were to press the panic button with my id numbers installed it would dial out 968_110 or A968_101.
Either way its not a common distress signal and to my knowledge doesn't activate any other radios the way MDC1200 or Fleetsync does. -
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Would Plano Tx be close enough?
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Micheal
I have a 2017 F-150 aluminum body. Took the paint off the inside of the roof to make sure ground was good. Checked coax to make sure my solder work was good. Coax is 19.5' long.
I could get away with half of that. Coax is only 1 years old & never used before. I am useing the Midland 3 dB gain gost antenna. I was sent two bad Midland 6 meter antenna cables (made by Midland) and both was defective. That's when I ordered NMO mounts from The antenna farm. That way I could use the RG8X.
Chance
WRJT366
I think this is the second complaint about a midland antenna I have seen in the past week. I heard that the "Factory tuning" may not be correct for all applications thus throwing off the SWR but don't quote me on that.
Your best bet would be to see if a local GMRS operator would have a NMO antenna for you to try giving you an idea of where exactly the high SWR is being caused. Try your antenna on the other set up, and the other setups antenna on yours and compare the results.
All of the vehicles I have set up use RG58 or RG8x with no problems at all, while others will say rg58 is no good, I really think theres only a problem for longer runs of the coax. This would leave solder connections which can be tricky. Excessive flux or weak solder connections can cause screwy SWR readings.
My call would be to check the antenna first, and the mount/connector second, those are my two suspect issues anyways.
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I think this video sums it up right here,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sq3zEpYgCYoThis leads me to wonder though, Why do so many UHF radios come with SO-239 sockets for antenna use rather than BNC or N connectors? It even seems that newer UHF radios still use the SO-239.
Another question I have is weather or not someone should consider having the SO-239 changed out for the N type connectors? Would there be some form of improvement or has some form of compensation been made on the PC board in those radios?- BoxCar and AdmiralCochrane
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I stand corrected LJH505, I believed this was the factory antenna included with micromobile radios (Which is a small mag mount antenna.) My apologies for the misinformation above.
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Also if I recall, the midland comes with a mag mount base. Changing the base of an antenna also affects where it should be cut, that could also be why it seems so far out of range.
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Most newer radios can run upwards of 2.0:1 without an issue so a 1.8:1 for a cheap antenna is not surprising. The factory likely cut it "in the region" of 465 and left it at that. I don't know of too many serious operators using the included antenna anyways.
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Looks like a good grab to me. you have good tuning across the GMRS band from the looks of it.
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I'll echo everyones comments here about tracking the guy down. First even professionals have difficulty with good equipment pinpointing problem radios even when they are mounted on towers with fair signals. You don't want to accuse the wrong person of this and cause their life to be hell. Second, people these days are screwed up and would not care if they have to hurt or kill someone to get what they want, or to get away from being caught.
Your best bet is as everyone said, report to the police and if you wish, provide assistance (do not go out of your way to to get recordings and such unless the PD askes, which I doubt they would.)
Last, I am glad you are monitoring your daughter and her friends on the radio, so many parents try to be the friend and not the parent. If you hear this subject talking to the kids again, do attempt to record it, regardless if the police have asked or not. once you have the recording notify the police ASAP and give it to them as with physical evidence like that it will be easier for them to take action. Again, DO NOT PUT YOURSELF, YOUR FAMILY, OR YOUR DAUGHTERS FRIENDS AT RISK BY TRYING TO BAIT THIS GUY FOR A RECORDING. Its not work the risk to life. -
Now I think I've got it! Still not getting anyone on the repeater though. I guess I'm just in a dead zone for GMRS. Thanks for all the help!
There are things called access codes for most repeaters. you will need the input and output code (usually CTCSS or DCS) These need to be entered into the radio as well in order to activate the repeater and talk into it.
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"So if I got this right, if the number after output is say 462. that is the frequency my radio should be tuned to? I'm sorry I'm so dense. Science is my weakness."
Yes and No, Yes, you should be tuned to the 462 frequency. Your radio should also be set with a +5.00 offset. This allows your radio to transmit on the 467 frequency. Thus, technically, you should be tuned to both frequencies at the same time.
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Glad you figured it out, I was about to mention the off hook decode/scan. Basically with off hook decode is disabled, if the mic is in the hanger it'll require the correct DCS code to break the squelch however with it off the hanger it'll open up for everything. This is meant for companies running 2 or 3 user groups on the same frequency so you know the channel is clear before you transmit. I don't know of too many other applications its used for.
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Go to one of the repeater channels, select the proper access codes and you should be all set.
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You're just not using enough heat sinking. 100% duty cycle or bust!
LOL
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Well general radio etiquette, and this goes for the ham community as well, is to take a break every couple of operators/rounds. This means allowing the carrier to drop and waiting a few seconds before transmitting again. This serves a few things. A ) to give new operators a chance to join in, B ) to allow the timer to reset on the repeater, C ) in the case of linked repeater, to give the server a chance to catch up and other machines on the system to cool down. Every radio user /should/ make this habit, but they don't.
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The only real difference that I know of is that the 3B+ has wifi and bluetooth if I recall.
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I believe hes mentioning CTCSS and DCS codes, which have been gone over extensively in the forums. R-tone and T-tone. Not exactly sure how they'll be labeled but I do recall it saying R and T before the setting for Receive and Transmit
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Crazy question -- the future
in General Discussion
Posted
well, there is something called RF coupling, you often see this with through glass antennas, however no, there is no way that I have seen or heard of, to use bluetooth to connect a transmitter to an antenna.
There are ways to get around the problem though. One way would be to ask the landlord if you could run coax from the attic into a room through the wall. you would drill down into the header into a stud bay, install a single gang box with a cover. This would allow you to remove the coax when you move and replace the plate with a blank (if you do it right you can pass it off as a location you had a TV set up as well.) While not perfect, you can run an antenna inside of the attic and get reasonable results.
Another option would be to mount an antenna on an exterior wall (inside of the room) and work low power as to not flood the house with RF. This is least ideal however is better than nothing.
Lastly, if you are looking to use a repeater, the repeater owner may have RoIP set-up. You would need to contact the repeater owner for details on how to connect to the RoIP network as it usually requires a username/password.