WRDJ205

Sorry for the sideways picture…

I just programmed my GM-15 Pros today. I had the Baofeng usb cord. I downloaded the GM-30 software from the Radiooddity website. Using a win11 laptop I did not have any issues. I did check the firmware and saw that it was a later version than they had in the example at Radiooddity. My only complaint is that I couldn’t find the option to keep it in single display mode but that was an easy manual fix. With the software I was able to give each of the two radios a name so that I know which use which.

Amazon. They had a variety of different configurations. Had to be careful bc I almost got the wrong one (it was a different converted output voltage).

It’s an 18”. I don’t have a SWR meter to check. But, that might be the culprit. I’ll run the same test next weekend with the Midland Ghost designed for GMRS I suppose for comparison.

Driving thru my small city today I was testing out the reach of simplex comms btwn a GM-5RH with long rubber duck with me in the car and a GM15Pro with similar antenna at my house with a family member. This wasn’t a formal test but I wanted to know if I could use simplex to talk from my house to the elementary school. Lots of trees and houses in between but relatively flat ground. I switched to a mag base dualband antenna (not specifically tuned for GMRS). At about 1 mile, the transmission was inaudible with the dual band BUT very clear using the rubber duck. This was unexpected as I would have thought even with the dual band not specifically tuned for GMRS it would have been better than the rubber duck. In the end, we were able to get about 1.75mi using the flexible antennas on both HTs in an urban environment. Was I wrong expecting better distance using the mag base mobile (even if it was dual band, 2m and 70cm) as compared to the rubber duck?

I suggest that you watch some YouTube videos on GMRS radios to get an idea of the basic concepts. From there, you can ask questions on this forum. Many of us have that same radio. It’s not hard to program repeaters directly on the radio without having the cable and programming software. Lastly, don’t be worried about pressing the wrong buttons. It can probably be fixed with a little help or investigation.

Slow start into GMRS last year with (2) Baofeng GM-15 pro. Recently got a Xuoxun KG-XS20G with a Midland MXTA25. Also, received a Baofeng GM-5RH. just getting into using programming software to set channels/frequencies.

Anyone else ever tried this? I bought the transformer for Ryobi 18v system but all the major tool suppliers are available. Used the suppled connector to hook the transformer to the battery adapter and installed power pole connections downstream. For testing purposes I hooked it up to a Wouxun KG-XS20G. The supplied power was 12.5V after the step down. The radio needs 13.8v +/- 15% so should be within range. Per the power meter, in RX the radio pulled about 0.2A and TX it was under 5A. Transmission was fine and did not seem to cause any issues. Left in standby for several hours and transmitted with fellow radio enthusiasts for 5-10 min. I will do more testing but it looks like this might be another acceptable power source. Thoughts?

Thanks! That’s what I wanted to know.

I was recently gifted a Baofeng GM-5RH. I’ve looked all thru the webs and can’t find a straight answer. Is the manual for this radio similar too or the same as the UV-5G Plus? Is the programming software on Chirp? Thanks WRDJ205

Another NOOB question, what’s different with Nodes vs Hubs? A different repeater owner gave me a list of nodes? Does that need to be programmed or is that just telling me what is linked to that particular repeater?

I still debating on if I use the case as a transport medium or if I put in partitions and make it more customized. Right now everything fits snuggly and doesn’t bounce around. I never planned to operate in on the box. I may even have room for my handhelds. Still need to figure out the various power config pigtails I want to include. i’m using a midland mxta25 ghost antenna. Didn’t have a chance to test range yet but hope to this weekend.

Still working on it but getting the pieces and parts together. Going to program repeater frequencies this weekend and see how it goes. I’m getting 12.5v from the power bank. Definitely enough to power it for RX and TX. Not sure if it’s impacting the radio transmitter power though.

I guess I need to research more on how the hubs work. I requested access to a couple of repeaters in the area and the owner mentioned that there were 3 that were linked in a hub in the area. Can someone explain the basics of hub use? If I'm on one repeater, does it transmit to the other repeaters without me changing the channel/frequency via internet? And, if someone responds to the other repeater, does it come back to me on the repeater i was originally using? Thanks. WRDJ205

I plan to make a mobile box that I could keep most of the parts and pieces in to make it easier to grab and go. In that box I was going to have a LiPO4 battery for some on-board power. To monitor the draw I bought a pretty nice watt meter. Unfortunately it only came with power poles. Guess I’ll have to either cut them off or make some adapters.

Yea, I saw some of the reviews for the copies. I’d prob be more likely to go the power pole route I didn’t need another crimping tool.

Just received a new Wouxun KGXS-20G. The power in comes with a standard T plug and they incl a “T x plain wire” and “T x Aux plug (aka cigarette lighter)”. I ordered a couple of pigtails or adapters for the variety of ways to supply power. Most have the SAE plugs on them. Originally, I planned to use Anderson but that would mean I would have to replace many of the plugs. What is the general opinion on using the Aux power plug or SAE connectors for a mobile mount? What are the advantages (if any) to replacing existing with Anderson?

Ok. So after more research (and the fact that the 1000g plus is out of stock) I’m looking at shifting gears to the Radioddity DB20 or KG-XS20G. The only drawbacks I can see for my application is that the receive only frequencies are less and the lower output (appears that it’s worth trying the lower watts based on some other threads). Is there any significant differences in programming? Anything else to consider?

That’s a good idea. Since I plan to use my set up for both a base station and keep it portable I was focused on the higher output radio. I’m cutting my teeth on this one but I see a small more compact setup for a second vechicle not too far in the future.

This is really an awesome project. Thanks for the information.

What dc power supply are you using ? What amperage? I keep reading that I need 30a. Would like to get a compact one that I could fit into the case.

That’s a good looking set up. I’m going back and forth on the Midland MXT500 or the Wouxun KG-1000G Plus. Plan to have an assortment of connection cables to be able to power it from different sources. But also to have an onboard LiPO4 battery and AC power supply.

Merky1761 what radio are you using? Has that battery held up well for you?

Thanks for the reply. Right after I posed the question, i found the right terminology to search. "emcomm box" seems to show up a bunch of videos. guess i have some watching to do.

I've tred searching the myGMRS foum for this topic so fogive me if it's been done before (if so, I would appreciate the link)... I'm interested in building something similar to the Midland ammo can but much simplier. I'm thinking of using a hard plastic case (think Pelican knockoff) that would hold the radio, mic, antenna and a power supply. I would be taken out and set up for use in the field. Primary use would be to make it mobile enough to grab and use as a base or in a vehicle, UTV, tractor, etc. For power, I was thinking something like a 155Wh portable power station that would fit inside the case. I don't know if I can post links but there is one on Amazon that would fit well. But, this would mean i need an AC to DC adapter. I would like to be able to charge off of solar as i already have foldable panels. I haven't purchased the radio yet so I don't know the actual power draw other than what is published in the Midland literature. Has someone done something similar? Any advice to someone just getting started?