LeoG

Don't need to open squelch if you have a meter. If it's showing incoming then you wait.

The best I got is my stove turning on.

If you have a 2nd radio just clone it and you can restore it quick and easy too.

I sent a letter to Tidradio. Lets see if they respond to it and what they say.

I got the Melowave NMO Magnet Antenna Mount (3.5") mainly because it said it had a better coax than all the rest. All of them used RG58U and this used CFD200 instead. No problems with the antenna staying put with the MTXA26 antenna.

Nothing that I know of. I'm in Windsor Locks. I'm a member of the Holyoke Ma 575 repeater. The Glastonbury repeater is pretty quiet for the most part.

I've been listening to my local airport on 120MHz ish AM with the H3.

I have the Wouxun KG-XS20G and it's the best radio they ever made because it's the only one I've tried. LOL I like the radio. Easy to program, buttons on the mic along with the unit, can plug it into the cigarette outlet and it's rated at 20 watts but mine puts out 25. I'd say the sensitivity is more like -115dBm than the stated -120dBm (.25uV) because on occasion my TD H3 can hear things it can't. But that a bottom end signal anyway. Front end isn't perfect since it's a radio on a chip tech. If you want a super het then do the Wouxun KG1000 which is 50 watts. How'd I do Randy...

Just like me buying a dust collector for my shop and then spending 20% more than the dust collector to buy the duct work to connect it to the machines.

Stop it. Line of site maybe 7 miles but it's going to be scratchy.

I assume battery is charged? At one point they were having battery charging issues and sent you a new battery to fix it.

You should be able to tell if you are connecting with the repeater because it will transmit back to you for a second or longer and then make a squelch burst. If you hear that you've connected and maybe no one is there to hear you. If you hear the kerchunk on a repeater and no one answers, does the repeater really exist?

You should be able to do the firmware update again. Setup the firmware program by starting it and then load the proper BIN file into it. Connect the USB dongle to the computer and make sure the COM port is selected and accepted. Plug the USB dongle into the radio which should be off. Then press the PTT button and turn the radio on. The blue bar on the program should start moving up. I don't know if you can release the PTT button or not, I don't until the update is complete. When it does complete press the END button, turn off the radio, unplug the USB dongle and turn the radio back on. Hopefully it works.

Any problem I've had with them they've taken care of so far. I've gotten 12 of them with 2 DOA in different batches. Both have been replaced. The 2nd one I had to send them a reminder that they were sending me a new one but I got it a few days after that.

They have a selection for using a yagi antenna. They also have a section for you to program the lobes of the antenna but darned if I could get it to work. So picking the yagi should give you a good enough example.

Specs always are up to.

This is my family. The wife and I are active. She somewhat clueless on programming but knows the ins and outs of getting in contact with others. My youngest son seems to have a clue as we were using them today when we were using separate vehicles getting supplies for a brick patio. Finding each other in the store, relaying information when I was getting the truck to the forklift for loading. Even getting a breakfast sandwich. Got it with a poppy seed roll. My sister and my brother might know the concept but lack of experience. Not a good plan.

I wouldn't worry about it one bit. You are providing a limited service. It's not any of your fault about their misunderstanding of the way a repeater works. It's very likely out of the 100 that are signed up only 15 of them will be using the repeater during an emergency. And they'll also learn that you need to take turns and be patient for the use of a limited service. Sounds like you would like them to use it on a regular basis instead of just for emergencies. I think some will come around to that.

My dozen CCR Tidradio H3s are great as far as I'm concerned. A bit scratchy in the speaker, but it gets loud. I have a Wouxun XSKG20G and it doesn't get half as loud as the HT does. Now I also have the H3 setup to listen to the nearby airport which is pretty cool. CCR

If you studied the constitution you'd know that driving is not a privilege other than for commercial traffic. They've upsurped this right from you and now you have to beg and pay the govt to use the roads you pay for.

The govt should know almost nothing about you. And yet they know way to much. And the problem is they won't be satisfied until they know every step you take and every penny you spend and exactly what you spend it on. Pure violation of your 4th

Kind of a pain because you have to register and there are tons of variables to set. But it does a respectable job in predicting where the signal will be or not. I suggest setting the reliability at least to 95% and I usually keep it at 98.5%. Set the strong signal between 14 and 24dB You can find your Rx threshold in your radio specs. Mine says .25uV but I keep mine higher to keep things more realistic. Currently I have mine at .316uV which is -117dBm. High resolution is fine. When you want to be critical you can use Very High Resolution. But it takes substantially more time. https://www.ve2dbe.com/rmonline_s.asp

Sure, but the govt likely isn't listening and it's not being stored in the Utah facility like every cellphone, text, email and digital transmission is.

I don't want any kind of national ID. Whether it's for voting or any other purpose. The govt has enough information on all of us without us being categorized even more so. One thing I like about my radios/HTs is that I can leave my govt tracker (cellphone) at home. Keeps the govt out of my business more.

Since you can only vote in the state you reside in, then it should be fine to have a state standard.