LeoG

And here I went again asking what I thought was a fairly simple question LOL

When we do net check ins the net master will usually tell you with an "R" number what you sound like. Usually the net master is close to the repeater so they are getting full quieting on the repeater and any noise coming through is from the other person into the repeater. I bounce back and forth between and R7 and R9. We have a few people on the fringe and they can be R3 to R7 depending on how the signal is playing that day. One of the reasons for our nets is to assess how the radio is coming into the repeater. We have several people that test multiple HTs during the net and it's surprising at how the different HTs come in from the same place. Likely mostly due to the antenna it using. But since I'm just playing theoretical radio I was wondering at what point the signal might go from somewhat noisy to somewhat clean. Especially when in a mobile and moving. I have 2 repeaters that do very well on the road crackle-wise because of their antenna height. While mine is pretty low comparatively. But mine is mostly for communication with my wife and I work in a metal building and neither of the other repeaters penetrates the building very well unless I'm right at the 1 small window in the building at which point I can get the one north of me.

Who's programming their radios for repeaters that don't exist? And if they don't exist... how do you know their PLs?

So .25uV and up 18dB gives me 2uV which is what I had seen on the interweb. So realistically anything beyond that is just gravy. If you look in the upper right hand corner I named that area Full Quieting Exit 38. It's a sweet spot of short duration at 65MPH on the highway.

I play around with my Wouxun XS KG20G and my TD-H3 handheld. I believe both state 0.25uV at 12dB SINAD. I have the Radio Mobile set at 0.318uV which is -117dBm to give me a little leeway. I can't say if I have full quieting at -85dBm or not as everything is theoretical right now. But I should assume yes because that particular spot is full quieting in my truck with my MXTA26 antenna using my current setup of 13 meters high 7.2dBi antenna. My repeater antenna is a 13 meters with a 7.2dBi gain antenna. Soon my antenna will be at 26 meters with a 9.8dBm antenna and I'm just playing around with certain areas plugging in data using my mobile in the truck and the HT outside of the house. I had a surprising result when I was playing around from my repeater to my house. Had the antenna at 13M, then 26M, then 61M and then 91M. At 61M the signal was 300uV and at 91M it dropped down to 157uV. It gained strength up to 61M and then lost when I went higher. Just found it interesting and wondered what caused it to do something like that.

No need to change PL codes. Store all the different repeater channels and all you need to do is switch to them when you get in that area. Program them once and then just go to that channel when necessary. I run a Wouxun XS KG-20G and it is easily programmable from the microphone.

What's wrong with being a radio dork? Takes intelligence to be one.

Unfortunately I don't have anything reported in SINAD. Or at least I don't think I do.

I am far from a new comer. Just playing with Radio Mobile and would like to know when my signals get into the good and better range. Trying to determine what I'll need to do with my repeater to hit certain areas (family members) without playing a lot of guessing games.

Assuming a modern radio with a .25uV sensitivity at 12dB SINAD. Been looking around and I've seen 1uV (-107dBm) will produce almost full quieting and 2uV (-101dBm) should produce it.

OK, playing around with the links area of Radio Mobile Online Calculator. Pretty cool the diagram and information it gives. Like to know what the colored bars in the land picture are. Is it just population density or manor of blockage of the signal?

I did say "if".

Don't need to open squelch if you have a meter. If it's showing incoming then you wait.

The best I got is my stove turning on.

If you have a 2nd radio just clone it and you can restore it quick and easy too.

I sent a letter to Tidradio. Lets see if they respond to it and what they say.

I got the Melowave NMO Magnet Antenna Mount (3.5") mainly because it said it had a better coax than all the rest. All of them used RG58U and this used CFD200 instead. No problems with the antenna staying put with the MTXA26 antenna.

Nothing that I know of. I'm in Windsor Locks. I'm a member of the Holyoke Ma 575 repeater. The Glastonbury repeater is pretty quiet for the most part.

I've been listening to my local airport on 120MHz ish AM with the H3.

I have the Wouxun KG-XS20G and it's the best radio they ever made because it's the only one I've tried. LOL I like the radio. Easy to program, buttons on the mic along with the unit, can plug it into the cigarette outlet and it's rated at 20 watts but mine puts out 25. I'd say the sensitivity is more like -115dBm than the stated -120dBm (.25uV) because on occasion my TD H3 can hear things it can't. But that a bottom end signal anyway. Front end isn't perfect since it's a radio on a chip tech. If you want a super het then do the Wouxun KG1000 which is 50 watts. How'd I do Randy...

Just like me buying a dust collector for my shop and then spending 20% more than the dust collector to buy the duct work to connect it to the machines.

Stop it. Line of site maybe 7 miles but it's going to be scratchy.

I assume battery is charged? At one point they were having battery charging issues and sent you a new battery to fix it.

You should be able to tell if you are connecting with the repeater because it will transmit back to you for a second or longer and then make a squelch burst. If you hear that you've connected and maybe no one is there to hear you. If you hear the kerchunk on a repeater and no one answers, does the repeater really exist?

You should be able to do the firmware update again. Setup the firmware program by starting it and then load the proper BIN file into it. Connect the USB dongle to the computer and make sure the COM port is selected and accepted. Plug the USB dongle into the radio which should be off. Then press the PTT button and turn the radio on. The blue bar on the program should start moving up. I don't know if you can release the PTT button or not, I don't until the update is complete. When it does complete press the END button, turn off the radio, unplug the USB dongle and turn the radio back on. Hopefully it works.