LeoG

I can see the planes. I'm just shocked at how it's limited. The 21 mile repeater is in the direction of the window. The 17 mile repeater is on the opposite side of the building. The other thing I was shocked about is it's AM and not FM. I had to turn the AM option on my radio for those frequencies to show up.

I've programmed my TD-H3 radio to listen in on the nearby airport. Can be interesting at times. Currently at my house, behind the small hill it's just static. If I put it on my base antenna it's perfect. I can hear the tower and all the airplanes responding. My shop is 1/2 mile from the airport and I'm in a metal building. I keep the radio in the window using a Nagoya 771G antenna and I can hear the tower and some of the planes. Mostly the planes are just hash and not understandable. Is getting an antenna tuned to 120MHz really going to do anything for my reception? It would be in the same place, in the window. I keep it there and I can hear the 3 repeaters I use (7, 17, 21 miles away). I find it very interesting being 1/2 mile away from the airport and not able to hear the airplanes where I can hear them at my house which is another 2 miles away.

LI East End repeater in NY on 575 announces by voice on the 35 after and on the hour it sometimes gives weather. It's a pay to play repeater and I only hear it when the tropospheric ducting is just right. But I hear it often enough to know it does voice and CW for ID.

My 5 watt HT transmitting on 467MHz will turn on my wife's headlamp she uses to walk the dog at night. It has turned on my stove, thankfully it is a 2 step process to activate any burner. My 25 watt mobile radio on 467MHz will activate my neighbors motion detector light. In my shop, again at 467MHz it will activate my Fein Dust Extractor which has a tool activated port. None of this happens on 462MHz. My buddy has a Kenwood HT and when he's transmitting near his garage flat screen it freezes the picture. When he unkeys it resumes.

Chevron U. S. A. Inc. v. Natural Resources Defense Council, Inc.

It's the only circus we have.

There's a few people on here that think because they can get many fars that everyone should be able to do the same

They say you can program by USB-c. I haven't had any success doing it and I bought the Kenwood plug/adapter. I've had no issues with programming the radio using that setup. There is a USB port on the side along with the Kenwood outlet. The one on the bottom is to charge the battery. I just use the Tidradio CPS to program my H3 radios along with the Odmaster. I've also upgraded to 140625 and now 140702 firmware using their IAP app. The firmware before 140625 had an issue with blanking out repeater signals for about 2 seconds on the 1st part of the receive after unkeying.

Yer one of those people.....

Well it certainly is possible

I saw it on the internet. It must be true.

Better to ask for forgiveness than permission.

There is no load on the radio. Is there any chance for damage? A high SWR produces power that backfeeds into the radio and that's what hurts the output stage. If there is no antenna there is there the possibility of a backfeed even occurring?

For the most part height is might. A telescoping antenna pole and a way to keep it upright. You could go as simple as a 6" quarter wave mobile antenna or a higher gain base station antenna. Usually 5 ft tall or so with a gain of more than 6dB. The better coax you can use the more signal to the antenna you can get which would give you more range. Placement of the antenna is the most important aspect of the range you'll get.

Thanks. Above my pay grade. Is there more of an instruction manual than an explanation of how all this came to be?

Of course I realize all of that. Just trying to get a sense of what others using the app might be putting in there for the other numbers besides their own equipment. Myself I'm surrounded by trees on 3 sides. North of me is treeless in the immediate vicinity and it shows in my real world experience. Now the leaves are falling and the signal is opening up. So it's possible the app might register more accurately than it has been. There is a check box on the app that says use land cover. Checking this box decreases the signal quite a bit. Also would like to know what the "Use 2 Rays" option is since it's checked by default. Also the Strong signal Margin. I've bounced between 14 and 20dB for the most part and the reliability seems to be more accurate the closer you get to 100%. I tried 100% once and the program won't run. So I keep things above 98% most of the time. Just curious. And there's pretty much no way an averaging program could get things spot on. But getting it close would be nice.

One reason to have a repeater is so you can talk using an HT in an area instead of being strapped to a stationary base setup. I have this at my shop. I can keep an HT on me so my wife can get a hold of me whether I'm in the machine area or the finishing area or talking with some of the other businesses in the building area. Sort of wish I could have a double setup so I could have the same setup for my wife where she could go out in the back yard and hit the shop repeater. But I need a 40' antenna setup to make the connection unfortunately. Of course I use it so I can go out in my truck around town and still be in contact with the little woman.

So I've been playing with this for some time now and have difficulties in making it match real world conditions. Using GMRS and my current setup I have some very specific spots that I know how they react reception-wise. My house is a dead spot more or less. I have a friends house that I get a good signal at and my Dads house that is extremely weak. By the time I get my house to the weakness it is all the other spots drop off the map and turn white meaning zero reception which is far from reality. Was wondering what parameters some of you are using to get your realistic power/reception levels. It's probably the line of trees I have between my house and my repeater antenna, but I'm still curious as to your parameter setup. Here's my inputs for me talking through the repeater with my truck mobile setup.

I do 21 miles to a repeater. It's about 1000' higher than me. We have nothing in the state higher than 2450 ft. I was playing with Radio Mobile and put a 50 watt repeater on top (Mt Frissel) with a 100' tower and because of all the other mountains in the general vicinity it had very poor performance for distance. Too many peaks that were close to the same height.

I have areas in my town where my 50w can't get 2 miles.

Another flat lander.

I'm able to contact the LI repeater tonight. Was walking around and I heard it's half hour blerb about what it is, where it is and how to join by going to their website. I was able to hit it with my 5watt talkie along with my 25watt base. No one answered my radio checks from the talkie and I didn't do a radio check from the base.

I have talked with people by tropospheric ducting. Windsor Locks to LI NY. Only issue is that I have a 700+ foot mountain directly in the way between us. There should be no possibility of me talking with them. There was one night I was able to use my 5 watt TD-H3 talkie to have a full quieting conversation with them.

Difficult is a relative term. 1st of all the repeater I was talking about where you quoted me was an existing repeater on top of a mountain. But I do have my own and it started out in my shop with an RT97S 5watt repeater by Retevis. I bought their kit that came with some cable and an antenna. I used the antenna but not the cable. I got some LMR400 to connect things up. Antenna is up about 40ft off the ground and 140 ft above sea level. It's surrounded by trees which turned out to be a big issue. Now that the leaves are falling the signal is increasing but I've also swapped out the 5watt for a 50watt repeater. The big issue is the tree leaves. Just kills the signal. So that's where things get more involved. I'm starting to get setup to put up a 72' mast with another 10' pole and a Comet CA 712EFC antenna. That's turning into a project. I'm building a lot of the stuff. Made a mast out of Red Grandis which is a weather resistant wood and hard like hard maple. Making a hinge so it can be maintained or dropped during hurricanes of high winds. It'll have a battery winch to do that. I have the mast built in sections right now.. waiting for some metal plates to come in so I can get them water jetted and then welded. So call it a challenge, call it fun, call it what you will.

Here is the H3 programming software ( windows install file) H3_GMRS_setup240104.exe