RCM

If you get your ham (not HAM; it's not an acronym) license, those of us who are hams will be happy to offer guidance on setting up your radios accordingly.

Ya, I can go low and narrow 1 - 7 and still play with the grandkids in camp. It's not like all channels are congested out here so will rely on the 15 - 22 High/Wide that are not repeater designated in my system when with a group or family on the trails or fishing.  Looks like I'll have 3 vacant after adding all the repeaters I might potentially use.  And even the repeater channels should work HT-HT or HT-Mobile if not in repeater range, correct?
Good idea on Ch.16 for that off the travel tone repeater.  
Coincidentally, the closest repeater to me locally is the same setup as one in Montana I plan to try when there.
 
Looking forward to playing with programming and keying up.  

Yes, PL (Private Line) is Motorola's name for CTCSS. Kenwood calls it QT (Quiet Talk). PL is the most common generic term for it.
 
The simplest way is to just program the correct tone for transmit and don't use a tone for receive. I don't recommend it, though. Much better to also program the receive tone and use the MON button to toggle the receive tone on and off. Lifting the mic from the hanger also turns off the receive tone so you don't inadvertently double with someone else on the channel.
 
It's nice to not have to listen to any noise that happens to be on the frequency. Having receive tones also makes scanning work much better.  

Yes, PL (Private Line) is Motorola's name for CTCSS. Kenwood calls it QT (Quiet Talk). PL is the most common generic term for it.
 
The simplest way is to just program the correct tone for transmit and don't use a tone for receive. I don't recommend it, though. Much better to also program the receive tone and use the MON button to toggle the receive tone on and off. Lifting the mic from the hanger also turns off the receive tone so you don't inadvertently double with someone else on the channel.
 
It's nice to not have to listen to any noise that happens to be on the frequency. Having receive tones also makes scanning work much better.  

141.3 Hz PL for repeater.
 
Is this PL synonymous with CTCSS for repeater access?
 
If a local area repeater on the map shows "Tone In 141.3, Tone Out 141.3.   (PL/DPL/CSQ) that 141.3 programmed into my radio will get me onto the repeater by simply transmitting a signal on the repeater channel posted?  Another repeater says Tone Out No CSQ/No tone and Tone In 141.3.
 
Just wondering the simplest, elementary method to get onto and use a repeater (after permission).
 
Also, I found both repeaters on the myGMRS app.  Neither show up on the Map until I select "Show Outdated" at the top.  Is that meaningful?

I've reflashed V2.0 firmware on Windows without an issue. KPG-49D may still work on that radio.

Yes, absolutely.

There's also a Texas GMRS Network channel on Zello. That one is a little more particular on how you join the group. Those repeaters are mostly around Houston and Dallas. 
 
There is a GMRS repeater where I live. It covers the entire county. However, there isn't a lot of traffic on it and it's not on any network.  
 
I use Zello to reach other GMRS groups for the sake of conversation. 
 
As a newly licensed Amateur operator, I don't see too much difference using Zello rather than Echolink, Peanut, Dstar, DMR, YSF, or even Wires-X. Particularly in the GMRS and Ham channels of which I'm a member, a license is needed. 
 
I've been playing with Echolink, which I find a little wonky. Zello offers a more stable app and smoother experience. 

I submitted the used-radios spreadsheet to them using ALL your suggestions.  They say 1 - 4 days to review and get back to me so will see what they say. Not sure if the front panel programming mod you suggested is available on both the  and TK863G so I asked that question in the Notes section of their form.  I don't know if that'll be enough to sway me to the 880 (if display programming is not available on TK863G it might make the radio more stupid proof for me - avoid unintended mods). 
Also downloaded Service Manuals for both models.  Gobs of options in there so I'm sure there'll be a sharp learning curve.
If/when I pull the trigger and do a good install I'll know I went with the good stuff instead of off-the-shelf stuff.

Hey Shaine! I'm on GMRS-Chat right now. As you know!
 
Here's the $60 10 Meter radio I was just describing: https://amzn.to/384L8YE

A 32" antenna is 1/2 wave on 175 MHz or 1/4 wave at the bottom of the FM broadcast band, or about 87 MHz. Neither of those will work on 462 MHz GMRS.
 
Wavelength affects whether or not the antenna will work at all on a given frequency. Antenna length is related to wavelength.
Don't worry about gain, especially for offroading. Gain isn't free. To get gain in one direction, you have to give up signal strength in other directions. It's best to just use a 1/4 wave or 1/2 wave antenna. And I would (and usually do) just use a 1/4 wave because it is small (6 inches), works well and is naturally self resonant and therefore dirt simple. Offroad, simple is better.
 
The power limit for a GMRS (not FRS) radio is power to the antenna, not ERP. So even if you do have some gain, even if you brought along a portable high-gain Yagi beam (single-directional) antenna just to see how far you can reach from a mountaintop, you can still legally feed it the full 50 watts.

Funny thing about this whole deal - I know nobody who uses GMRS and my 'group' will consist of family members to whom I hand a HT for trail riding, fishing, hunting, etc.  But GMRS could also be handy to monitor others out there, especially hunting, if/when stuff happens, and where there's lots of wide open high desert, and line-of-sight can be 30++ miles.
 
Montana, where we summer, is a whole different beast, with narrow trails and lots of timber.
 
I'm leaning toward the 863...

Oh! Good to know. I don't have or use a 'smart phone' at all anyway, so...
 
...I'd only get to use the PC App. Since my TK-880H 1 radio is on a shelf by my right knee, that would just be silly.

Excellent!
 
Thanks so much.

I spend time on NWI and on GMRS-Chat. Both have nets every Sunday. 
 
GMRS-Chat does not go over repeaters and accepts unlicensed users. Despite that, we still observe regular radio practices. The thinking is that it gives interested people practice before getting their GMRS license. 
 
GMRS-Repeaters does link to repeaters, as does NWI, so users do have to be licensed. 

The keypads are interchangeable. Also, they are readily available as replacement parts.
The 880 V1 will program just fine from the same Windows program that works on the V2. You will just get a notification that any V2 only functions will not load into the radio. I have both V1s and 2s and use the same cable, software and data file for both.
 
Download the service manual, too. It goes into a lot more detail on programming.
 
Yes, I would recommend getting 1-7 and 15-22 programmed. I would ask for 1-7 as low power, narrow bandwidth, simplex. I use 67 Hz PL TX and RX. This is to make it compatible with the widest range of handheld radios, including cheap, old FRS-only radios.
 
15-22 I would program as repeater pairs, high power, wide bandwidth, 141.3 Hz PL TX and RX. That gives you the best chance of being able to get into a repeater if you need to.
 
I would have the buttons programmed as follows: left up/dn = volume. Right up/dn = channel. MON = CSQ toggle. A = TA. B = Scan D/A C and D = group up/dn and SCN = scan.
 
I would in fact probably put 1-7 in one group, 15-22 in a different group.
 
So, here's how that works: Unless your group has the PL tones set the same as yours, keep it set to monitor (MON will appear in the display). That allows you to hear all traffic on the channel, regardless of tone or lack thereof.
Keep TA set to on (TA in display). That makes all channels simplex, whether they are set as repeater pairs or simplex.
 
I would have the scan set to "multi" so it will scan all programmed frequencies as opposed to just the group/bank you are on.
If there is something on a channel that is a nuisance, just press the B button while it is on that channel to lock it out from scan. That function will reset when you cycle the power.
 
TK-880 can be programmed from the front panel, but first you have to remove a zero ohm resistor and enable that function in software. By default, that function is not available.

used-radios.com tells me the 863 is a newer radio than the 880, that "the buttons will last longer" and it has a few more options/features.. maybe features I might not need. 
 
880 V1.0 is DOS programming only.
880 Firmware V2.0 is Windows. 
 
863 is Windows only. 
880 programs from display (youtube) - 863 does not.  Probably a non-issue if the Windows programming is EZ.
 
Should I just get the standard GMRS 1 - 7 and 15 - 22 pre-programmed?  Any other whistles I should ask for?
 
I'll get the cable and software just to have.. I do like to tinker with my toys. Anyone have a link to both (I know, SEARCH).  I have found the Owner's Manuals online so no one will have to tell me to RTFOM!  Maybe.
 
Thanks folks!

Seems that the CCR companies did a lot of Kenwood copying haha.  The Btech UV series radios use a very Kenwood handmic for instance.

Either one will be a great radio for you, and either will KILL a Midland micro-mobile.  I think the 880 series is a few years newer than the 860 series.  The 880 series had a better alpha-numeric display also.  You really can't go wrong with either Kenwood option.
 
Another difference between my 862s and my 880-885s... the 862s have a 6-pin mic connector and use the 6-pin programming cable.  The 880 and 885s I have use an 8-pin mic and programming cable.
 
  --  Dirty Little Secret 1 --  The 880-885 Kenwoods use the same programming cable as the popular CCR called the VV-898.
  --  Dirty Little Secret 2 --  You can use the 6-pin Kenwood programming cable with the 880 and 885.  Just center it up and plug it right in to the 8-pin socket.  The middle pins are the same on the 6 and 8 pin plugs, and the outside 2 pins on the 880-885 are not used for programming.

You're right about 25 watts being sufficient. The primary differences between 25 and 50 watts is that the latter will suck your battery dry twice as fast, the radio will get hotter, and the RF burn if you touch the antenna while it is transmitting will be worse.
 
My understanding is that the TK-863G has more/newer trunking functions than the TK-880. You won't be using those functions anyway, so either will work fine.

I can help you out there, if you're interested. I have a Motorola M1225 already programmed with GMRS channels that I would be willing to sell. It's in great condition. I'll even throw in the programming cable.
Nothing wrong with it; I'm just not using it because I have enough Kenwoods to cover all my GMRS needs.

New quandary.   I've been cruising/surfing to make a choice on which Kenwood to buy.  Most info is from here, some from used-radios.com
 
Kenwood TK880 
Kenwood TK863G
 
The 880 seems to have most mentions.   Prices seem to be within $10 or so.  What are the differences please?  The more I learn, the more I don't know...
but I'm thinking 25W should be plenty of oomph for mobile (non-repeater) use in the mountains.
 
Thanks again folks.

Did the deal get done?
 
Looked at M1225, 20Ch at $135 and Kenwood TK-863G, 256Ch at $95 on usedradios.com.  They seemed to think the Motorola was more than I need.
Use will be mobile to HT, little if any repeater use.
Is one much "better" than the other?
 
I've pretty much put Midland out of the picture.

I haven't dealt with them, but they look reasonable.
I'll extend the same offer to you on the M1225, since gman1971 isn't interested. It's the 40 watt 20 channel version, pre-programmed with gmrs channels, and I'll throw in the programming cable. All for less than used-radios dot com has them listed without the cable.

You don’t need sheet metal. That ultra-sticky aluminum HVAC tape fastened to the underside of roof works well. Just use an NMO mount that has teeth on the inside mount that will bite into the tape. That will give a decent rf ground through the coax to the body of the radio. You don’t need a complete circle either. Just an X or * of about 13” diameter is fine. We did a lot to fiberglassed roofs on ambulances and RV’s. . You’ll find the tape at any hardware or home improvement store.
 
Another possibility, if there’s a headliner under the non-conductive roof, is to fasten steel or aluminum window screen or even chicken wire to the underside of the roof.
 
If I doing a UTV like yours, I’d use a 6” quarter wave UHF antenna with the HVAC tape ground plane. It’s small enough to survive most tree branch problems, can be easily straightened if bent, and $10 each, you can keep a spare or two in your tool box for peace of mind. Add a commercial grade radio like the Motorola M1225 properly installed and shock mounted, and you’ve got a nearly bulletproof rig.