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tcp2525

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  1. Not worth the aggravation. Most likely you won't be able to climb the tower, or use your contractor to install your antenna. You will have to contact the government and coordinate with them and use their contractor. Too much misery for little gains. Stick with private sites.
  2. Ah, come on give the brotha a break. It clear he's Rasta from the island enjoying the ganja and his woman lost her bumbaclot. As for the radio, we all know he's talking about the world famous and most sought after DB20.
  3. Stick with a real quality antenna that is designed for the commercial environment or learn the hard way. If a company, Midland, can't even use stainless steel screws to hold the whip in you know you got a piece of crap. I posted about rusting set screws after having the antenna for three months. I won't be buying anymore overpriced and overrated Midland products. Toss that piece of crap and chock it up to a lesson learned.
  4. Yep, pretty much what I said. I guess we agree. It just might be worth it to some of us to get a fraction of a db more in performance.
  5. I would cut the cable to what is needed, which he said is six feet. Nineteen feet of crappy cable, especially RG-58, is not going to be ideal. If he properly installs a quality connector he will see some improvement that might not be much, but anything is a plus at 465 MHz range. I always use RG-400 in my mobile installations.
  6. The problem is the impedance of the mic. Adapting it to "work" on a modern radio isn't the problem as it will sound like crap. Unfortunately you need to rework all the guts.
  7. Yes, very easy to do. I've done them for Icom and Kenwood. You will be changing all electronics, including the cord and mic element. I totally restore to new condition, but modernized.
  8. After looking at the picture of your current configuration, I would suggest you blow everything out of the program and start over. Set up your repeater on channel #1 only and leave everything else blank. This way you won't have any conflicts and you will eliminate the variables. This should get it working for you. Once you get it working you can slowly add the other channels. Keep it simple.
  9. Find out what com port your programming cable was assigned in Windows and manually change it to one that the software will recognize. That's it.
  10. At the distance to the top of the mast high quality feedline is a must. What are you using or going to use. This is more important than the type of antenna you use. A unity gain antenna will blow everything else out of the water if fed with good feedline compared to a high gain antenna with poor coax.
  11. Stick with the MXTA-26 on the mast and stop worrying about the angle. It's not going to make a hill of beans difference. I know mine really performs amazingly well whether I'm standing still or doing 8 or 80. MPH in the truck. Only thing to worry about is to change the black set screws to a stainless steel one as salt water will corroded them quickly.
  12. Not true. I've had to change capacitors in one were they sustained damaged due to arcing. Never assume just because they are passive devices they can't even damage or abused.
  13. Here ya go, can't beat this deal. If you want two, offer him $500 each and he'll take it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166729055740?i
  14. No problem with Randy if your skin isn't thin. Plus, he's the only one with balls to stand up to Mr. Chung for not supplying a programming cable with a new radio. Also, he lives by the rule, the more people you piss off with the truth you know your message is resonating with a low SWR.
  15. No! Absolutely no. The NMO is designed to get its ground from underneath the sheet metal it's mounted to. The top side of the sheet metal is usually painted and will insulate. If you want to assure a good ground, rough up the bottom of the sheet metal with sand paper or wire brush. I've installed dozens of NMO mounts through the roof of vehicles and none of the above mentioned is really necessary. I never had grounding issues.
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