SteveShannon

Not really. We’re allowed to operate West of Line C which is in Alaska, or South of Line A which is in the continental United States.

You might not be sending the tone needed to open the repeater, or You might be transmitting on one of the simplex channels rather than the corresponding repeater channel, or You’re transmitting with 5 watts and a rubber duck antenna from your driveway and transmissions of the people you are hearing are being retransmitted at 50 watts by a repeater from a high gain antenna that’s 300 feet in the air, or All of the above.

There’s something that some people do when testing to see if they are on a repeater. It’s called “kerchunking” and it simply refers to clicking the PTT without saying anything, which caused the mechanical transmit/receive relay in older equipment to make a clack-clack or kerchunk sound. Most repeater owners (and many people who monitor the repeater during the day don’t appreciate that, so this owner is gently urging people to identify themselves rather than simply kerchunking. So, simply say “WSEZ526 testing”.

It’s not even possible. They are not licensees. You are authorizing them to use your stations and you are required to have them identify according to the rules Marc mentioned earlier. You are entirely liable for them following the rules.

Most do, it’s sometimes called “cross”, but if you just turn off the receiving tone you don’t need to do a split.

Turn off all tones on the repeater and try again.

Here are the actual regulations: https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-47/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-96

Do you have a link?

Drats!

Yes, the DMR radio was an Alinco, but Anytone inside. The DMR Calculator is under the Settings menu. But now that I’ve used OpenGD77/UV380 firmware on a radio, I probably won’t recommend anything else to anyone who wants to use DMR. I’ll stop hijacking this thread now.

I have several of the RT Systems programmers. Two of them, the ones for DMR radios, can corrupt channel memory, which I submitted to RTS as a bug. Instead of saying “Thanks, we need to fix this” they said (paraphrasing in my own snide way) “yeah, that’s really risky to try and use the features we provided.” So I no longer try to move channels up or down in the channel list or zones in the zone list, but I really do like the DMR calculator that builds multiple channels at a time by conflating talk groups with frequencies.

And here I thought i was being helpful. Silly me.

Welcome!

Menu + 9 enables or disables voice. Page 25 of the factory manual.

I think he’s saying to install the firmware for the UV-13 Pro into the GM-15 Pro, and then you would be able to load configuration files created with the UV-13 Pro.

Welcome @WSEY982!

The closest thing to a "procedure" would be for you to call them up and talk to them. Unfortunately, there are no frequency coordinators in GMRS like there are in ham radio.

I agree that’s based on location. In my area we don’t even have a GMRS repeater yet. There are ham repeaters in almost every town bigger than 10,000 people. Looking at repeaterbook there are 160 amateur repeaters in Montana and only 8 GMRS repeaters. MyGMRS lists 10 repeaters for Montana, but that’s still 16 times as many amateur repeaters. I realize wrkc935 was comparing traffic, rather than numbers of repeaters, but without repeaters, there is no traffic.

Do you have any handheld radios? If so it probably has the ability to send 2-tone.

After drinking some of his dad’s hooch

Be very careful. Your 4x4 post and antenna are within very easy striking distance of your electrical service entrance. 230 volts can definitely kill you. It looks like the translucent white zip tie is what keeps it from tipping. Those zip ties are subject to rapid weakening due to UV rays. Make sure you use something that's UV resistant or better yet a stainless steel cable and move the post far enough away from the service entrance that it cannot strike the overhead service wires. Why do you want a repeater? It looks like you have what you need (other than my nit-picking above) right now.

I’ve reported this to Rich. He’s the only one who can answer.

I have two of them. I bought a used AA-600 from one of the local repeater owners because it was a good deal even though I already have the Stick Pro. The AA-600 has a larger screen. The Stick Pro is small and convenient in a go bag. Plus the Stick Pro has Bluetooth and I can see it with my phone. I helped a friend put up an antenna and I attached the Stick Pro right to the antenna and we would tune the antenna then put it up in the air and I could see what the SWR was in the air. If I could only have one I’d keep the Stick Pro. It’s the black thing right at the bottom of the antenna in the picture:

Or just because the sarcasm wasn’t sarcasm at all.

There’s no reason to believe that your NanoVNA is less accurate than a RigExpert. I have both. The RigExpert is more convenient, but not necessarily more accurate. In fact because you calibrate your VNA against the standards each time you may even be seeing more accuracy from the NanoVNA.