VETCOMMS

I have good luck using DX Engineering 400MAX cables. And ABR Industries also makes good coax cables. I use ABR coax for my portable setups. 
And don't overlook the Jet brand from R&L Electronics. I am using a few for jumper cables in the shack.

HRO, Gigaparts, and DX Engineering all sell them. Just add it to the order. 
N connectors are generally considered sealed as well. 

M&P certainly makes their excellent cables with N connectors, but Gigaparts is terribly under stocked right now. But you can order it direct from M&P and they’ll ship it directly to you. 

Thanks.   I was looking at Gigaparts M&P but all I saw were PL-259 connections.  Much appreciated!

It’s always better to have fewer adapters, especially since N male connectors are easily available already mounted on coax. 

Here’s a decent quality 50 foot coax, equivalent to LMR400, with N male connectors on both ends. 
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-400maxdn050
It’s also available in custom lengths or off the shelf at 25 ft, 75 ft, and 100 ft. 

So this is N- female on the antenna as well?  If so I need coax with 2 N male ends right?

Yes, and that’s how most coax with N connectors is. 

I'm such a rookie.  Figured out the problem.  I didn't push the repeater button in on the Vertex so it was running in base mode.  Putting out 33.8 watts with an SWR of 1.5 and transmit % of 95.98% on the temporary antenna.  It's tuned for 462.625 and meter shows 462.623.
Thanks for the help!

Go right back to that dealer. He might be able to clear this up quickly. 

For the jumper at either end you typically want something very flexible.  The shorter the jumper the more flex you want.  LMR 400 isn’t very flexible because it has a solid inner conductor, but M&P makes two different 10 mm (same diameter as LMR400) cable types with stranded center conductor. One is called Ultraflex 10 and the other is called Hyperflex 10.  Most of the cable manufacturers do something similar.  For more flexibility you can even go to smaller sized cable, such as M&P Ultraflex 7.
It really depends on you setup, but for example I have an 18” piece of RG8x going between my radio and my SWR/Wattmeter, then a six foot piece of some flexible coax that is similar to LMR 400 except with a stranded center conductor.  I think it’s M&P Ultraflex 10 or maybe the ABR equivalent. That leads to the pass through/lightning protector.
Yes, there are conductor differences.  The thinner, more flexible jumpers have more attenuation, but because they are short the loss doesn’t matter much. That’s the only way it will adversely affect performance, but that’s the trade off and it’s doubtful you’ll ever notice the slight loss.

There is also LMR400 Ultraflex which is a bit more flexible. You can use some quality RG8X if the jumpers are say 6 feet or less. There won't be much loss at such short lengths.

You're welcome. 
I will suggest to everyone that they bookmark that coax loss calculator. It is quite handy.

For sale 80 feet of Andrews Heliax LDF5 7/8" hardline.  😆 
Thanks for the calculator and all the help.   Much appreciated.  👍🏻 

I have to agree. Especially if you keep your runs 100 feet or less. And most people will not have a coax run over 100 feet.
 
I would just stick with LMR400 or equivalent. I did the calculations for LMR400 at 467.600 with an antenna with 6 dBd of gain at 50 watts. You are only looking at a power loss of 18% over 30 feet. But you make that up and more with a 6 dBd gain antenna. which gives you an ERP (effective radiated power) of 164 watts.
I like using  https://kv5r.com/ham-radio/coax-loss-calculator/  to figure out cable loss.
Let's say you have another 20 feet of coax to get from the radio to where the coax comes into the house. You are still getting an ERP of 144 watts.

"Some people" love to spend other people's money and "some people" are incapable of understanding the difference between some guy putting up a hobby radio antenna and a professional-radio station antenna.
LMR400 will work just fine - it is not perfect, but the perfection-per-dollar ratio is plenty high enough for regular people.

I like scotch 103c self fusing rubber tape, a layer of scotchkote (I believe this is what @WRKW566 is talking about) and scotch +33.
If you plan to remove it someday then a layer of glass cloth tape or even some cheep electrical tape would be helpful first because you will have to cut through  the rest to get it off. Rubber gloves are a must when handling the scotchkote, it will stick to your skin. It’s not easy to remove. This is absolutely waterproof. That said there may be a better less permanent solution but I haven’t tried one. 

Depending on the connector on the hardline you should be able to just order a jumper from DX Engineering (they will also do custom) or Gigaparts or Ham Radio Outlet. All sell short jumpers with nearly any end. I have several LMR400 and UG8X jumpers for the last few feet. 

ABR Industries will make just about any cable you want and their prices are reasonable. https://abrind.com
I have a few cables and jumpers from them and they are good quality cables.
 

OK I'll try again for UV resistant tape.   Thx

While 3M Scotch Super 33+ is more expensive, it does hold up to UV exposure. 

Standard heat shrink tubing will not be very waterproof in a location that gets a lot of rain year round. The marine grade heat shrink tubing will work but it will be messy when trying to remove it since it has heat activated glue inside to ensure it is waterproof.
The self fusing rubber tape wrapped with good electrical tape for UV protection works the best. That combo has been used for a long time for sealing coax connections for amateur radio, CB and TV.

Most will use self fusing rubber tape and then a good quality electrical tape over top of that for UV protection. Scotch Super 33 is about the best electrical tape to use overtop of the self fusing rubber tape.
Here is the self fusion tape that I use. Proxicast Pro-Grade Extra Strong 30mil Weatherproof Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Sealing Tape 

What do you mean about "any of that mess"?  The drip loop?  I'm thinking 5 db gain when only 30 feet AGL as I'm in a river valley backed up to a bluff i cannot get over. 
Db404-b,  Laird FG-4503 come to mind because they're not 10 feet long. 

Common sense isn't always common with me!  I'll do a bit more reading on the antenna instructions and go from there.   Thanks guys.  👍