VETCOMMS

Ok, so not all encryption is compatible between manufacturers. I'll give a common example.
Both Kenwood and Motorola had DMR radios, but their "basic" privacy is not compatible between the two. Motorola's is a 16bit XOR, Kenwood's is a bit different, thus incompatible. The "basic" privacy is typically a non-standardized encryption that is for basic privacy at little/no cost. Now, you can use Enhanced Privacy/Enhanced Encryption in Moto/Kenwood DMR, because they use a standard, ARC4/RC4 40bit encryption. Same goes for other standard methods of encryption such as DES (64bit) and AES256 (256bit) which is compatible between manufacturers, as secure interoperability is required. These methods of encryption can be used with NXDN and P25, based on options available (both cost and free) for each radio.
Loading encryption, when meeting opsec/FIPS requirements, creates the key, which is stored in either a hardware or software vault, and then loaded into the radio via manufacturer specific software, or with a hardware device called a keyloader. The keys can be transferred between secure devices (keyloaders/vaults) but after creating and storing them, you can never view what the key is again, so store it properly. 
In the case of many of these Chinese radios, security and standards are typically not followed. You basically copy the key into the software, apply it to the digital channel desired and that's it. Keep in mind, since they don't follow the standards, the encryption may not be compatible with others. The AES could be AES128, or just a completely made up 256 encryption method applied to DMR different than the standard, thus not compatible with other radios using industry standards.
 
@WRYZ926SINCGARS uses frequency hopping for security, which not only doesn't show up on a scanner/close call, it's impossible to follow without the starting frequency and hop-set, which is why it's just as secure as AES, if not more. 

If you go through the trouble to make an account, they will "sell" you the software for $0. Buying radios is now supposed to go through a dealer.

It's a huge download, about 1GB. I have the wide-band and password work around patch for CPS 16 build 828 if you go that route.

Do i have to be a dealer or will they help the average joe?

myview.motorolasolutions.com is the only official location to get TRBO/XPR software. 
 

I got my xpr4550 from ebay.  Here is the information about the CPS: 
 

I have crossband repeat available in the cars. At home I use an analog hotspot for home coverage when I don't want to jump on the base. It's simplex and connects to other repeaters with allstar. I have tossed the idea of building a small repeater that I could connect to one of the base stations, but haven't gone down that road yet.

My mobile radio has crossband repeat capability. It's a nice feature, but TBH, I'll probably never use it. There are so many repeaters in my area that I can hit with an HT that I doubt the issue will come up. I suppose it might be useful when traveling to other parts of the country. My days of camping out in the wilderness are past. Still, I think the capability is cool.
To answer the OP's question, I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. If it's only you using it, the duty cycle probably won't be high enough to be a problem. It would not be working any more than if you were using it as a base station in your house. Still, because you won't be able to see it when it's in use, you might consider putting a small fan on it. If you want to get fancy, you could set it up so that the fan comes on when the radio reaches a specified temperature, or you could just set it to blow all the time. I can't imagine any downside to having a fan on it all the time except the negligible cost of electricity to run it.

I use cross band repeat on my base radio (Icom IC-2730) quite often when I am working around outside. I can get into the local 2m repeater with my HT but I don't have the best signal doing so. I don't have to worry about where I am standing or which direction I am facing when using the HT when I use cross band repeats on my base radio.

I have a base station, currently, but for more than a decade I would use the crossband repeater in my Jeep to talk on the repeaters. It was kind of a pain to go outside to switch repeaters, but it worked pretty well.

Assuming that you are not a Government Entity or a person and/or an entity involved in basic or advance life support services, you will need to meet the eligibility requirements of Part 90.35 of the FCC Rules and Regulations. The FCC filing fees for a Radio Station Authorization (License) is $205 and that application/filing must be filed on-line.
Prior to filing, you will need to file a request to register for a FCC Registration Number (FRN), if you do not already have one. I assume that you already have a FRN because in order to be on this forum you need a GMRS license and that number will be on your license.
If you are filing for a mobile itinerant frequency(ies) or an approved low-power allocated frequency you will not need to have your application/filing coordinated/approved by an appropriate authorized Frequency Coordinator. If you are filing for non-itinerant mobile and/or Base or Repeater Class Station Radio Station Authorization, you will need to have your filing/application coordinated by the appropriate Frequency Coordinator and approved. The Frequency Coordinator fees are separate and inaddition to any FCC filing fees.  Some coordinators have posted their fees on their websites
In most cases, if you are applying for a specific frequency or a pair of frequencies, you will need to submit a radio communication propagation study/coverage plot map with the required contour plot study. You will need to provide the technical data regarding your transmitter site location, tower height, antenna placement height at the tip, output power, antenna height above the average terrain, and maybe a radiation exposure study.
Also, you may be requested to provided a frequency interference study depending on the requirements of transmitter site. It my be best to let the Frequency Coordinator select an usable Frequency for your requested coverage area.
It is my understanding that the FCC will not longer approve any filings/applications for Statewide coverage. They (FCC) expects filers/applicants to apply for and use itinerant frequencies for statewide coverage. Filings/applications for a specific geographical area will only be granted with a specific radius from a center point and that point must be exactly identified.
Don't forget to specify all the emissions types you intend to transmit with in your filing/application. You will be regulated to the listed allocated narrowband frequencies with their respective restrictions/conditions in the Part 90.35 radio service pool.
Get your Visa/Mastercard ready.
 

SMR's were the original business band analog trunking systems in the 1980's. You probably need to do a deep dive if you plan to try to build out something using 800/900 MHz freq's.  Most of those original SMR's were bought out by Nextel (which implemented a digital cellular-like technology known as iDEN, and operated under an FCC waiver as an eSMR - enhanced SMR). Almost all of those old SMR freq's now belong to Tmobile. There's some limited Licensing opportunities in 800 MHz for smaller businesses, but it's a pretty steep learning curve to figure out what's available in your area, and what it might cost you to get up and running.

I found the Bluetooth feature too distracting for me to safely use and went back to just using the mic. It has been more than a year since I stopped using the Bluetooth and I think the problem was delayed reaction time and the amount of planning you had to do to use it for each transmission.  You still have to have the radio where you can reach it, the Bluetooth basically only makes the mic itself hands free. The Bluetooth was easy to set up and program. APRS took a little more time to set up.  Programming is pretty straight forward, identical to many other mobile radios. Chirp plays well with Anytones.  Like just about every other radio sold in the US, if you want to transmit outside of ham bands, you must select an alternate control configuration (I think there are 8 choices).

578 is my everyday radio, but I generally just use it on 2m

Encryption normally only is done on the subscriber end, or console not the repeater in the P25 world. I would assumei ts the same for DMR but I dont play with it nor have any radios that work on DMR. 

Fence post can be used safely. You have to be smart about it and make sure each joint is mechanically attached using screws/bolts. And you also need to use proper wall anchors along with guying the mast.
There are plenty of old VHF/UHF TV antennas that were installed using fence posts/top rails 30-40 years ago (if not longer) that are still standing. And VHF/UHF TV antennas are heavier and have a higher wind load than any vertical antenna.
Again, proper installation is important. And not everyone can afford a tower nor is a satellite j-mount always tall enough. Be smart with your installation and your ill be just fine.
PS: You can extend the height of satellite j-mounts using 1 5/8" fence posts and couplers. You will want to use guy ropes/wires when doing so.
Here is my 6 band 6m - 20m cobweb antenna on a j-mount that was extended up with a 8 foot 1 /58" fence post. The coupler is properly attached to the j-mount and fence post along with everything being guyed. The cobweb has a lot more wind load than a vertical and it has withstood 50-60 mph winds just fine.

 

My recommendation is to use a wire rope with thimbles. 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSYLQCXB?asc_source=01HFY6QA52QM8M7ATBSHXHG6T4&tag=snxs23-20&th=1

Dacron rope or wire rope. 
But a high enough bracket can take the place of guys. 
Guys are usually attached to some kind of anchor in the ground, but the edge of a roof should work well also.

I can always change out the bottom section with a shorter 7 foot section and see if the antenna performs just as well,  i just thought the extra 3 feet would be a good thing.   I like the idea of not guying the mast but it sounds dangerous and unwise not to do so.   What,  specifically do you use for guy wires?  Do you anchor the wires to the edges of the roof near the gutters on the one side of the building and the roof peak on the opposite side of the building?
I like the one guys idea of the telescoping mast that did well without guying.   Will have to look into that. 

I know some people use top rail for antenna masts but it is not engineered for that. You are asking a question that only a PE can answer. @SteveShannon is a PE but he is retired.

I suggest using something like this EZ 43-A Adjustable 3 Way Down Guy Ring for up to 2-1/4" Mast - Heavy Duty placed right below the antenna. You can use some good Dakron rope such as 1/8 inch Black Dacron Polyester Cord for your guy rope. I like using Nite Ize CamJam Cord Tightener - Tie Down Rope Tightener with Carabiner Clip  to tension the guy ropes. 
I use 1 5/8" fence posts for my antenna masts along with satellite dish j-mounts and guy each one with all of the above going to eye bolts or other tie off points. The biggest antenna is a 6 HF cobweb antenna that is a 8 foot square antenna. The antennas will still sway in high winds but I haven't had any issues even with 50-60 mph winds.

Without some kind of reinforcement, the joints on these top rails allow quite a bit of slop.  I use them, but I would not use more than two.  I recommend either guying the top rail sections at the joint and again at or near the top or at least putting in a couple through bolts at the joint or even a sleeve that fits around the joint. I’ve been toying with the idea of a piece of steel cable (wire rope) running the length of the two sections and then tensioned to pull the joint tightly together.  I’m not certain that will remove the play though.  Unfortunately, because of the galvanizing welding is more difficult.
A telescoping flag pole is better in my mind (but not as cheap).

I use several zip screws at each joint. I use 1 5/8' fence post couplers. I went overboard and have three wall brackets along with the guy ring at the top. While fence posts and fence top rails aren't ideal, they do work. Just make sure to properly secure them to your structure and at each joint along with some guy ropes/wires. And keep the weight and wind load down with the antennas. I normally only put 1 antenna on each fence post mast.

All the laird antenna's I use are wrapped to the base. Dont go around the antenna. 

I'm such a rookie.  Figured out the problem.  I didn't push the repeater button in on the Vertex so it was running in base mode.  Putting out 33.8 watts with an SWR of 1.5 and transmit % of 95.98% on the temporary antenna.  It's tuned for 462.625 and meter shows 462.623.
Thanks for the help!