WRVD377
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Posts posted by WRVD377
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4 minutes ago, WRXP381 said:
Yes. Ham stations in some counties and city’s are exempt from some rules while gmrs stations are not. Same at some home owners associations. Might be a good reason to get your ham license even if you don’t use it.
Thank you for the confirmation. Does that have to do with the cut out in the HAM side that contains this (47 CFR 97.15(b)) that I could not find in GMRS?
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Anyone had a city tell them to install a 30' or 40' tower requires commercial tower zoning for GMRS, but if you have a HAM License it has other rules?
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Icom IC-2730A- I know is not compliant for gmrs and requires a modification for it to work. Not sure how many people will be willing to answer that question publicly. However it you break the rules this is likely a good option.
I prefer non Midland products due to being able to have 2 - 4 preprogramed repeaters or simplex stations all at the same time so I can reply to many without changing channels to hear one at a time. The above is 2. Btech has some that are 4. So it is worth looking at others if you do like me.
Likely I can't answer antenna questions, as I am just now looking at multiband antennas. But I know one of mine will work the HAM side and GMRS, as well as part of the 150 range.
Royce
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GMRS- Yes it can be possible. Line of sight, repeater antenna as high as possible even that tiny repeater we have got 8 miles in bad locations.
If you are truely flat no buildings or hills in the way it is possible for HT 5W to get to it, but where I live it is not good past 2.25 miles.
The key is antenna height, for everyone.
Last I checked $35.
Also find the highest DB gain antenna for that tiny repeater and the highest location possible, with the shortest LMR-400 cable run you can.
Do not attempt to tie a radio to the repeater, get an HT for you to talk to it. A mobile for a vehicle.
May not have hit all your points.
Royce
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Hello Nice you could join, sorry I am not in that area so I am not much help on that front.
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On 3/11/2023 at 2:55 PM, WRWJ697 said:
I need help to get my own repeater
How does that help this person's issue? What do you need?
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On 1/7/2023 at 9:20 AM, Radioguy7268 said:
Putting a 40 watt amplifier on a low budget radio with suspect spec's is the equivalent of putting a 200 HP Nitrous shot kit on your Pinto.
Until your repeater has a decent receiver with good sensitivity and selectivity you haven't done anything to improve the performance of the system. No matter how much horsepower you think you just gained.
Well they never said how they would do it in the email. I wonder if it is this.
Retevis AR30 Full Duplex Repeater FARM TRACTOR BUNDLE | retevis.com
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10 minutes ago, Guest Dudecw said:
I am having a strange issue with my mobile radio. I purchased a KG1000G+ and installed in my Land Cruiser. When the vehicle is off everything works perfect. even if I turn the key to on everything works fine. Once I start the engine, I can receive but not transmit. It appears as though I am transmitting from my radio but on the other end they can’t hear me.
This only happens when I have a “privacy” tone enabled. When I switch to a regular GMRS channel with no tone then everything works great engine on or off. Once a privacy tone is enabled (on both radios) then I can transmit with the engine off just fine. Engine on and no transmit.
I have installed a noise filter in line with the power supply and had no change. I think it has something to do with the Alternator. If I take the belt off and start the engine it seems to work just fine. Any ideas? Has anyone encountered this before?
That certainly sounds strange. Not that I would know how in this case, a privacy tone is a problem with alternator noise, but the only thing I did not see you write is if you tried to shift the tone from one end of the settings to the other. To see if any of them work. I don't know how the noise could strip out or alter the tone but not affect anything else. However, this forum has some people that have been around a lot of stuff and one of them may have heard such a thing.
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9 hours ago, Guest owyheedog said:
First let me say that I am a definite neophyte with radios, aka radio illiterate so be gentle. With that said I need advice on a couple of issues. I want to put an antenna on top of my popup truck camper but this creates several issues:
1. As the camper is fiberglass I assume that I will need a no ground plane antenna. [The antenna would mount to a metal rack which is attached to the roof.] Correct?
2. Being a popup, the roof goes up and down approximately 18" so I will need slack in the coax to allow it to do so. Do they make a coiled type of coax that would allow it to stretch? If so I'm guessing that it would be a short section that needs to a longer piece that runs to the cab of the truck. Is "slicing" them together an issue?
3. It will require a pretty long coax to go from the top of the camper, down to the truck and then up and into the cab. Is a long run of coax an issue ?
The alternative is to mount it to the ladder in the back which eliminates the "up/down" issue but still leaves the ground plane/long coax run issues.
Thank you for any advice; remember, use small words the I'll understand.
Can you find a mount point on the camper topper near the cab to use they nmo antenna if that is a truck bed camper unit, where you mount the nmo antenna to this Nagoya GPK-01 NMO Ground Plane Mount Kit – myGMRS.com when parked or driving with the camper in the bed and use the cable that came with the mobile unit?
You would say mount it to the side of the popup with enough space so the popup works, but the cable is still long enough to pass back in the truck.
Just one thought.
Ill add my second thought, what if your truck mobile had the above setup, but you were looking for more distance when parked. Can the mobile move to the camper, add a hitch mount for a retractable pole 25', LMR 400, and a typical ground plane antenna. Using Velcro to hold cable. all removable for travel and the above usable while travelling with camper. then if camper is not in the truck, use standard nmo antenna and cable.
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Filter by state. Or
But I am pretty sure you need to be a member to request access.
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3 hours ago, Guest keitht said:
I am just beginning to research GMRS radios. I currently use FRS radios on outdoor outings. I live in a fairly remote area in S.E. Mo where we have high hills / low mountains. We hike and travel on the Ozark rivers. I understand some of the limitations of GMRS radios and hills. I do not know what we have here yet in the way of repeaters. I am hoping that with GCRS radios being more powerful, they could at least punch through the trees here better.
All that said, I am a person who likes to buy once and not have to upgrade later. So I like to get the best system I can afford right off the get-go rather than buy something cheap and have to buy something else later. With that said, does anyone have any suggestions for me on what I should do, or what I should purchase in the way of radios???I plan to get my GMRS license soon.
Thanks for your time.Might I suggest watching some of NotaRubicon Productions - YouTube reviews. It is how I started after my first two items purchased (would not have had I watched his first), and learned there are better options out there. In my mind it is a good beginner, simple review with commentary you may or may not like. But good general knowledge to base your dollars spent. Watch for devices that allow you to talk on more than one channel on the same device. Example: 1 ptt on simplex, 1 ptt on repeater channel no flip flopping around if you don't travel far, just push the other button. Everyone will have a favorite, and many of them are good.
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3 hours ago, KAB3210 said:
Feel free to add https://www.facebook.com/AledoRepeaters
Done.
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Thank you. A friendly ham pointed out an issue. At the time I looked for that issue I found a cable site that confirmed it. What was said was that the outer aluminum shield if it gets wet tends to cause an issue with the copper main line due to the different metals. Which I know from other industries, AL on steel is an issue also.
I am not saying I completely believe them over anyone else only asking if anyone "really!" has seen it.
But I thank you for your reply.
Royce
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I read all the current posts in a search for the above title.
1.) Does anyone know where and what to buy to link this repeater to mygrms as a node?
2.) Has anyone used a less expensive VNA to retune a notch duplexer in the gmrs range?
3.) Has anyone seen the reasons not to use LMR400 outside and if yes what is the alternative?
Thank you for any help,
Royce
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The "reasonable to assume" question was at hand. No mention of a local repeater height. Thus, my answer and condition. The link explains some of those variables. And obviously the extreme exceptions are always out there but are they "reasonable" for an unspecified height, or cabling, or antenna, cable loss, on and on. So for those with expensive systems, is that "reasonable" the way it was asked? I think not. Many have answered in alot of detail, but if you read how it was asked with no repeater altitude who will say yes 10 miles is fine on open flat land no buildings or trees (Oh wait that was not specified either). Put an 80' tree line, 10' - 30' infront of any of it. Is it still reasonable? Oh wait put some 5 story buildings right in front of the handheld, is that reasonable? At what power and altitude. Point being most of you pointed out the variables, exceptions are just that. Ideal perfect designs that most people cannot put in themselves Due to the real costs. Take my results what does that cost for a reasonable expectation everywhere in the US, then take all the other costs. I'll bet the examples of 10 miles or more are exceptions compared to most places in the US. For $800 can you get over 10 miles without knowing repeater height, obstructions, and all the other parts. My most recent test was at 25W Motorola GR1225, still not over 2.25 miles.
So I leave it at what is "reasonable" at an unspecified repeater height and all real living obstacles that may not have been stated. Answer: The MFGs handhelds documented answer. Crap. Unless there is absolutely no obstructions of any kind.
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3 hours ago, Guest Templeton said:
Yes, that makes sense. Thanks.
So assuming that a local repeater can receive a signals from two particular GMRS handheld radios, that local repeater does not have to be located "in between" the handhelds, it can also be "to one side" of both of the handhelds, but the repeater can still facilitate communication between the two handhelds if the conditions are suitable? Even if the two handhelds are far enough apart from one another that simplex communication is not possible?
Related question: if conditions in flat suburbia are such that two GMRS handhelds can get, say, 1-2 miles of range in simplex communication, is it reasonable to expect that the ~5 watt signal from one or both of these radios could still reach a repeater that is, say, 5-10 miles away? I know that this is highly dependent on the repeater height, but I am not sure how high the towers are of the freestanding repeaters near me. I know that there are no major hills near me, so I think that it is safe to say that the GMRS repeaters are on the top of some kind of radio towers.
And thanks for answering my questions.
Try this site: Radio Line of Sight Calculator for use on VHF/UHF Ham Bands (hamuniverse.com) This gives you some examples. It is all the details that matter.
One of my Handhelds is 5W with a better antenna and it still only got 2.25 miles- So I will jump off the cliff and say it is not reasonable to expect 10 miles from 5W handhelds, maybe on 5 miles. But not for me as I showed above. Again all the details matter as to an answer of which most of us could never give a yes or no answer.
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4 hours ago, Guest Templeton said:
If it helps, I am in the flat midwest. So, based on the replies above, is it possible that two GMRS handhelds could be, say, 10 miles apart at ground level (so no simplex communication possible), with one of the radios 15 miles from the repeater and the other radio 25 miles from the repeater (just as shown in the 'scenario 2' situation), but still be able to communicate with one another via the repeater?
So the repeater does not have to be located "between" the handhelds, it can be "to one side" of both of the handhelds, but still facilitate communication if the conditions are suitable? Am I understanding this correctly?
To give you my exact test:
1 handheld in my front living room at a window to an identical handheld in my truck. In town Midwest smaller town. 1.3 miles was my max.
Same handhelds with Retevis RT97 antenna 20 - 25' agl, 2.25 miles max.
I did not retry after I went from 5.79W @ 25' and 6.5dB antenna to 25.6 W @ 37' and 11.9dBi (-2.15 ish for dB).
In my case, such that it is with lots of obstacles. 6 foot above ground to 25' above ground only netted me 1 mile more range with same 5W handheld with +19 feet repeater antenna. Now if both handhelds were 2.25 miles on opposite sides you could have 4.5 miles of possible total range vs 1.3 miles.
All I learned was my power output had little effect compared to my antenna height for getting range.
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Would it be easier to put a tower in town with the repeater to cover the town? Like a 40' push up mast. Then link it to a repeater elsewhere via the node linking if outside of town was needed.
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I saw while reading cable pin outs on my RIm-Maxtrac and the RIM lite v2, of which, I am not sure any of that would need changed, when buying it for a known Radio setup. I suspect the USB output is already setup to be understood as a common sound device. Have not messed with that yet. Then I read the build here is on the Debian-stretch armv71 platform. First, I have to figure out how to test my node without being on the Midwest region. I may just get a RT97s and Rim lite v2 and put them in the shed 30' away from other repeater and 10' lower on solar power and see if I can get a node for it and link them to do my testing. Or wait for the other person in the area to put up his and help him get it running and attempt to link them.
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ERP or actual transmitter power?
in FCC Rules Discussion
Posted
I was told the building permit is for the structure project as it applies to the fees related to the cost of the project, the paperwork that must be submitted. Then it gets sent to zoning to comply to the cities Tower codes. (Meaning how they wish to apply the code to this project) if it is approved or objections to whatever will be told to you. So here they have excessively vague rules except on the commercial side. Yet the last email then said the HAM side must comply to the same sections in the commercial side even though it clearly states (except that section does not apply to "armature (HAM)" specifically called out. For me that is too much of a circle in the codes.
I finally asked a Concrete general contractor if he could do the concrete work, paperwork, permit, replies from the city and at what cost to deal with the cities circle of rules.