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Having someone else’s file unless they are programming the same repeaters will give you an idea of what things look like but won’t be exactly the same as what you need. It would certainly be more helpful if you gave some more info to the problem and shared a screen shot of your chirp file to help diagnose what’s happening. It could be quite a number of things.

Thank you!

The KG1000 radios defiantly has issues working as a repeater and they are difficult to implement a controller due to pin out access.. People wanting to go the route of making a repeater with two radios should consider a pair for Maxon 8402 radios. Like the KG1000's the Maxons are designed to pair with a simple jumper cable to make them work in repeater fashion. The Maxons are real commercial radios and will offer a more robust setup for the same dollars spent on the kg1009's. BTW, the Maxon Radios are the same used in the Brigecomm Repeaters.

Here is a working example for my RA87. I hope this helps you somehow. Best Regards! SILVERADO MOBILE 04182025 Ham .img

I don’t have an image file to share with you but I and others here are willing to look at your file to see if we can spot something wrong with it, but receiving more details from you would help us help you. There are a lot of smart folks here who have experience with common radio problems. Asking for an image file reduces the chances that someone will be able to help to the set of people who have RA-87 radios, whereas sharing your file opens it up to the set of people who can read.

are you willing to show your imagine file so people can help you with your specific problem.

I asked if someone was willing to share an image file with me, if you are not willing to that's fine. It's not just repeaters, regular channels are not working either.

It’s not a matter of trust. You haven’t explained what functionality isn’t working. An overly generalized statement of “it’s not working” doesn’t really describe the problem. Is your radio actually transmitting? If you get rid of all receive tones, do you hear other people? Seeing other people’s configuration files might not do much for you because they are operating in different locations with different repeaters, but you could provide details about the repeater you’re attempting to activate and post your file.

I’ll try to do

Ok thanks I will try that

Not connecting to repeaters and nobody can hear me, and I can't hear anyone. Trust me, it's not working.

Exactly what I did...

Nailed it with such a simple sentence...

Just keeping it family friendly just like if I was talking on the radio.

Unless I missed a Billy Ray Cyrus tune, it was Aaron Tippin That tune goes back a bit Anyway, nope, not even close to overdoing it

I don't know if this helps anyone, but I decided that I can't be bothered to pay RT systems when the provided software works just fine. That said, entering data is a pain so I wrote two python scripts. Now, what I did is not very complicated. The first script enters the two frequencies, the name and sets the tx power to high. All of this data comes from a simple csv file You then save the .dat file The second script then loads the .dat file, searches for the entries and then amends it for the CTS and DCS codes. The .dat file uses a four digit hex value to determine the displayed value. If anyone wants the scripts, DCS/CTS lookup and my excel sheet that does the lookups. Let me know. it's rough and ready and needs a little prep to share. But as it is, it allows me to edit the spreadsheet, copy some formulas and then export the data for use. While this took me about as long to 'develop' as entering the values. And it took me longest to build the DCS/CTS to four digit lookup table. Of course this requires a 'little' knowledge of python (enough to have python installed and be able to run it) and excel.

Perfect! TY it showed up fine.

2.15 not 2.5

Couple things to point out. dBi and dBd are two different values. dBi is going to be 2.5dB less than dBd. Because the dBd "d" stands for dipole. Which has 2.5dB of gain above a isotropic radiator. Which is the 'i' in dBi. I don't own the Comet that others have talked about. The circles I run in and company I keep gets me DB-408's and DB-420's for my stuff. Those of course are the 2K dollar antenna's you mentioned. But a guy in Columbus put one up on his repeater and it was a night and day difference between the 6dBi antenna he got with the repeater and that one. It probably added 5 to 10 miles of range or better to his repeater, all other things being the same. No change in mount height. Now, be aware that you can have too much gain if you have a lot of height. The realized gain in an antenna is accomplished in moving the radiation pattern. Think about it like a 100 watt lightbulb. If the light is going all directions, at all angles, no specific direction or angle gets any more light then another. To create gain, an antenna take the unused light radiating up and down and points in to the horizon. The more this is done, the higher the gain. When you get the gain high enough, there isn't much radiation down. So with a bunch of height, you overshoot the signal where you want it to go. Mind you it requires a LOT of height. But if you are on a mountain, and get a super high gain antenna, the valley below will NOT see much if any signal. Just be aware of that.

"SEO ACCY" refers to a specific fuse, likely within the vehicle's fuse box, that provides power to "Special Equipment Option" accessories. This often includes items like mobile radios for police vehicles or other aftermarket equipment. I have this slot. This slot gets no power when the key isn't in the run position. Trust me I don't doubt your method and I know its sound and proven. I'm learning so please be patient with me. The main issue would be testing to make sure that the circuit is not overloaded correct? Update: Thanks for the "why" question. It led me to do some more research. While theoretically the fuse tap would work it's likely for the radio to overload the circuit. Lesson learned and that came simply from you asking why. I appreciate your response. Feel free to add any nuggets that you think that might help further.

I got my GMRS license not too long ago. It's still kind of quiet but I don't care about talking to strangers. If it happens then cool. I got it for my family but we're so spread out that a few repeaters in the area would be absolutely fantastic. I'm actively working on a proposal for the company I work for in Blanchard to see if they would sponsor a repeater on site. It would probably be a hard sell since its a multi-national corporation but it never hurts to try. I would love to work with a few entities for sponsorship to put up a few across the Shreveport/Bossier area.

You left the "sh" off.

While a relay is not needed, some like to have one so that any accessory wired directly from the battery will not receive power until the vehicle is turned on. This is quite common when adding accessory lights to vehicles. And it keeps from killing the battery if you forget to turn the accessory off.

It is the recommended method for any mobile two-way radio. Not enough to matter. Why?

I personally would not try running anything more than a 25 watt radio from the cigarette lighter/accessory port. I would just run the positive wire to the battery and the ground wire to a good chassis ground. Anytime you power a transceiver through the vehicle wire harness you take a chance of getting RFI issues. Now if you are worried about a power drain, you can use a 12v relay that won't power the radio until the vehicle is started. Here is a diagram showing how to wire a relay. So you would run a wire from a power source that is only on when the vehicle is running to 86, that will only close the relay switch when the vehicle is started. And you can use a fuse tap for this. You still want to run the radio positive to the battery positive and the radio ground wire to a chassis ground. For the relay, to work, run the radio positive wire to the relay 87 pin and then another wire from the relay pin 30 to the battery.