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It's not a USB-C/12v power supply, though - it's a standard 5V/2A USB-A brick. My Anker desktop chargers are also 5V, though they support PD on the USB-C ports (which your article mentions does go above 5v but it has to be negotiated by the device and I'm pretty sure these H3 batteries aren't PD compatible). The Anker chargers work fine on other 5V USB devices, including some 18650/14500 batteries that charge via USB (through a USB-A to XH2.54 or similar connector). I'm guessing the charging circuitry is embedded in the USB-A plug housing. Side note: I do have a 12v USB power supply that came with my Thermoworks Billows fan for my smoker and that thing scares me. Other than the 12v warning on it, it looks identical to any other USB charger. It doesn't get separated from the fan or the controller. (Edit: I actually just checked and the Thermoworks 12v power supply has a USB-A socket. Which seems even sketchier. Good thing it has that grey-on-black 12V warning on it.) Yeah, it's gotta be the internal battery circuitry malfunctioning when the batteries are 100% charged. Unfortunately, there's no way to crack open one of these H3 batteries and poke at internal connections without destroying the shell, so I think my experiments end once I discharge/recharge this new battery.

It looks like it depends on what state you live in. Most online vendors do collect Missouri sales tax but so far Giga Parts has not done so.

I guess this means I didn't win it. Well, poop.

I found this snippet in a bunch of articles on hackaday: MURDEROUS “USB-C” PSUS AT YOUR LOCAL LIDL Remember the power article, specifically, how you get to higher voltages? Let’s recap: you get 5 V first, and then only after resistor detection. Higher voltages require negotiations over a digital protocol. This is a safety rule – it’s how you can use the same USB-C charger for your laptop, your phone, your wireless headphones, your devboards and whatever else. Now, what happens when someone builds a power supply with a fixed higher-than-5 V output, say, 12 V, and puts a USB-C plug on it? The answer is – seriously bad things happen. Such a power supply isn’t safe to be used on actual USB-C devices – it’s likely to destroy your phone or laptop, and it’s at a glance indistinguishable from an adapter that follows the USB-C rules laid out for everyone else. If you must use such an adapter for something every now and then, you ought to mark its cable with red tape in a way that covers the connector plug, so that you (or your loved one) don’t grab it to charge something else. Seriously, it’s easy to make a mistake, and the more you get comfortable with USB-C, the more likely you are to make it. Who does this? Well, many no-name manufacturers do, but also Lidl Parkside tools, for one. CrowPi does this too, in their recently released CrowPi L laptop. Both of these come with dumb “USB-C” 12 V power supplies, and neither of them should be sold to consumers, especially given that the CrowPi laptop is designed for kids and educational purposes, and Parkside tools are designed for non-tech-savvy people. When your kid burns a $500 smartphone or your granddad burns his laptop due to a $2 power supply, that’s when the gravity of this standard violation really sets in.

they get my calif taxes

Another quirk to the oddities here.. Now days its hard to tell if you are getting hit with a malware attempt to steel passwords. I remember a bunch of people at work a year ago getting similar notices from Microsoft. Turned out that was an attempt to steel peoples usernames and passwords. I actually went to my profile here and changed my password that route and the notice went away

If you're that close, try putting this on a pizza pan on a closet shelf. If it doesn't work you'll at least have a mobile antenna.

My Alinco dedicated charger tops out at 8.41 vDC once the light turns green. That’s typically considered the max charge voltage for a lithium battery (actually 4.2 vDC per cell and the 7.4 vDC battery is made up of two cells). I wonder if the issue is that it’s a usb-c charging device rather than a dedicated charger. That would rely on the internal battery circuitry to regulate the voltage because the usb-c charger has no idea how many cells are in the battery.

Yep, mine to. But lots of sites run quick. But that does answer the question about if there is a delay. Yes, transmit stays on for predetermined time. I guess my brain was off when I was thinking about that. Not the first time, and I"m sure not the last.

Maybe the word oscillation is whats got me. Oscillation is usually internal to the repeater due to a failure. Or if the separation and isolation are not good, you can end up with a transmit loop if the input and output tone are the same. You won't have any oscillation. If you have a short tail, the repeater transmit may cut in and out as the receiver cuts in and out. I usually set mine to 2.5 seconds. You will hear the remote station drop out and come back in, but the transmit stays open. For 2.5 seconds after the last drop.

I use both amateur and GMRS bands pretty much every day. For the most part, I'm conscientious about obeying rules, but I just can't see carrying two HTs around or mounting two different radios in my car if I can get both in a single radio. If the FCC showed an interest in enforcing the type-acceptance rules, I suppose I'd feel differently. I do get a little use out of the 1.25 meter band and I like that the AR-5RM has that capability. The Baofeng K61 also has 1.25 meter capability and is a little easier to carry around due to being intermediate in size between the UV-5r and the 5RM.

Yes, we’ve been talking about it for a couple days in the section of the forum dedicated to this site.

Tidradio has their own Amazon shop which is probably why the replacement came from Amazon. Took about a week to get it to me once they sent the "replacement is on the way!" email. They're good to work with. They did ask me for pictures for their engineering team since I mentioned hooking it up to an SWR meter, but they never followed up on them.

Good to know. I would have figured that replacements would have come direct from China.

Alright, finished charging sometime after 2am, so here's the album. Battery read 8.57v both on the little single port charger and the Anker charger after being fully charged. Maybe they fixed them? I'm going to run this battery down to ~50% to replicate the condition of my first battery and then we'll charge it again to confirm. Edit: Put the old battery on the charger out of the box: 12v again. It's gotta be something with the internal charging circuit on the battery.

No,, not a Firefox fan and i never use add on's. got this one two browsers i use.

I got it

If you're on a HT you wont hit any repeaters in or around Clarksville and defiantly not in Nashville.

No. Sounds like you're using the wrong browser. Use Firefox with Ublock Origin and Ghostery Add-ons and you won't have to put up with that crap.

Anyone else getting a Password Expired Notice when reviewing the latest Repeater updates just sent? I'm getting the notice even though I am logged in. Looks a bit suspicious

Frs is handheld only Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

There is no such thing Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

Wasn't really talking about testing, but real world conditions. The conditions between my house and repeater are sort of at the fringe even though it's only 1.9 miles as way of the crow. And while walking around my neighborhood I can usually reach the repeater and transmit audio through my 5 watt HT. There are times where I can hit the repeater and get nothing, just a blank receive from the repeater for the whole transmission and then the courtesy tone. I have a courtesy tone on my repeater so I know when I hit it with absolute certainty. But I've never heard what I would consider an oscillation. This theoretical oscillation would only happen as long as the HT is keyed up.

That’s just about ideal. So the charger is definitely putting out 12 volts once the battery is fully charged. That seems completely wrong to me. For the example I listed earlier, the Baofeng charger displayed a green light and was putting out 8.08 vDC. The Alinco charger is still charging and it shows 8.34. When it turns green I’ll measure it again.

That could be. When transmitting the battery will provide the necessary power but I would expect a slight voltage drop which might cause issues for the charger.