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Uh....can you give an example of a part 95E radio that is not a "pandaland" radio?

I thought I read somewhere the audio popping was due to the DSP core on the radio chip switching digital gain control settings. Apparently some manufactures have figured out how to mitigate the problem. The attached files are for the ROC, radio on a chip, used in the UV-5R radios for reference. Note other well known radios use a similar radio on a chip design, but with much better front end filtering etc. Examples are the Motorola XPR7550's which some won't use anything else, and the newer Kenwood NX-1K series. RDA1846 - Edited.pdf RDA1846 Programming Manual.pdf SCHEMATIC Baofeng UV-5R.pdf

10-4, Thanks for your guidance.

It doesn’t matter as far as a ground plane, but if you use steel you can use a magnetic mount.

Ah that makes more sense. Like I said, hard to read (at least, for me). Can you provide a screenshot of the configuration line in Chirp?

I have a Redarc Redvision system so can keep track of the system. With the unknows, rack over the removable panels may be the best answer. Looking at this one, Sherpa Moonlight shorty. I'll plate the bottom rack to creat a ground plane about 24x54+-. If I go this way plate out of Alumnum or Steal? I'll powder coat either way.

It has nothing to do with powered versus non powered speakers. It is because you get an impedance mismatch when trying to run just one mono speaker connected to both speaker outputs on the radio. A y adaptor works fine for me but ONLY when using a true stereo speaker with BOTH a left and right speaker. A single speaker will not work when plugged into both speaker jacks on the radio.

Well, how do they work?

Oh well. Don't feel bad some of us are engineers, and have an excuse for poor spelling, but we can do Math OK: 1 + 1 = too.

I can't say with any degree of certainty that mounting the antenna over the solar panels will result in any negative effects. My point was to mention there could be some. The sure test is try out a temporary installation. That could be as simple as a magnet mount sitting on the cross bar while parked. If there is any issue with the charge controller it should show up as soon as you key up the radio at high power. You would monitor the output of the charge controller for any anomalous behavior. I have a couple of these to monitor the output of some panels I have and the charge going into the battery bank, or discharge out of it. If you don't have one I highly recommend you get it for testing and monitoring. I got the version with the Anderson Power poles. They also have them with the MC4 PV panel connectors too. https://powerwerx.com/watt-meter-analyzer-inline-dc-bare-wire https://powerwerx.com/watt-meter-analyzer-inline-dc-powerpole https://powerwerx.com/watt-meter-analyzer-inline-dc-mc4

Yep, I can't spell or it might have been auto correct.

@amaff you are correct I have the KG1000. Let me trim down the list Location,Name,Frequency,Duplex,Offset,Tone,rToneFreq,cToneFreq,DtcsCode,DtcsPolarity,RxDtcsCode,CrossMode,Mode,TStep,Skip,Power,Comment,URCALL,RPT1CALL,RPT2CALL,DVCODE 32,18-10,462.625000,,0.000000,TSQL,94.8,94.8,023,NN,023,Tone->Tone,FM,5.00,S,50W,,,,, Location 32, Name 18-10 is the one I am trying to get to work. I'm using CHIRP to program it and I just exported the config to csv. So I'm not sure why they show up in the export. It's not the case when I'm looking at them in CHIRP. I will go ahead and try cleaning it up and program one of each and test them.

I think you have the problem backwards. @cjvespa's friends have GMR2+ handhelds, chvespa has got a KG1000

Another thing I just noticed. 18-10 is actually a preset channel in the GMR2+. I hadn't seen this when I scrolled through the manual earlier: Of course, it doesn't say if that means 10 on their CTS chart (94.8), or 10 on their DCS chart (65...N, I assume because it doesn't say otherwise). So maybe it would be beneficial to program 1 of each in the KG1000 and see which one actually works with their gear.

OK guess I'll have to mount them up front hood area..darn. Or I could get a rack for the area in front on the roof and mount the antenias and my starlink. Or could that possibley cause a issue with the solar panels? Don't think it would bother the Starlink? Thanks for bearing with me on this..

Excellent. Good luck.

That could be a rather interesting install. The solar cells are basically diodes so I'm not really sure how that would affect any RF that would reflect off them, if at all. Then there is the issue about any RF getting into the charge controller, oops. The cells might tend to rectify the RF. The rectified waveform would be rich in harmonics so there is a remote chance the installation would be a rolling RF interference generator. I know some have tracked down very strange RF noise issues which were later found out to be caused by rusted metal junctions, again acting like a diode, on a tower generating the harmonics. Yes this can happen. In WWII GI's made "Fox Hole" crystal radios using a razor blade for the diode detector. The metal "cat whisker" on the blue coating, which is really an oxide of iron, formed the PN junction.

That's wrong. Below is one picture of a UV-21R and it's definitely not a UV-5R type battery. But the question was about a BFH6 anyway. (Also, be careful with model numbers; some that sound the same are different and vice-versa.) The new UV-28 Plus looks like it may be the same hardware as the UV-21R.

yes... Apparently a UV21 is an upgrade to the UV5 and this seller is saying that radio XTMTS out to 520... He is selling for $34.

I don't know how your wiring is done, but I have everything on T-connectors. I made a simple pigtail for a USB outlet and powered a pair of small computer speakers from that. The difference in sound quality between powered and non-powered speakers surprised me. Perhaps it's just because the speakers themselves are better and has nothing to do with the power, but I was impressed. Also, the powered speakers gave me a much greater range of volume than a non-powered speaker. My truck is a bit noisy and that helped.

18-10 could either be either 462.625 MHz/94.8 Hz or 462.625 MHz/D065N. That will depend on if the tone/code setting is either set for analog or digital. You would need to enter in the menu in order to determine the setting. Also, there is a menu procedure to toggle between the actual tone freq and DCS binary code, and the radio tone/code programming code settings. Don't expect this radio to work optimum from inside the vehicle with a range of no more than a quarter to half mile. For decent trail comm on GMRS freqs, it would be best to install something at least a Midland MXT500 or MXT575 with a Midland NMO mount MXTA25 (Phantom) or MXTA26 6 dB antenna.

I'm having a hard time following what's going on with the programming info there. The way I read it, it looks like you've got both CTC and DTC tones programmed in? Which seems odd? But maybe I'm misreading it. This is the tone chart for the GMR2-Plus I THINK your table there shows that you're running 88.5. Tone 10 on the RR chart is 94.8. So I'd start there. That said, I don't know why you'd get the "no you can't" tone on 18. I see Duplexer set to OFF on 8-14, which would disallow transmit, which is expected. But that's not the case on 18. I'd start by making sure your DCS tones are disabled / cleared out completely on 18. It wouldn't hurt to disable the Rx tone (you'll hear anything on 18), and input ONLY the Tx tone of 94.8 and see if it's still messing up. This'll be easier to test if you have another radio close by to play with as well

This is true. I dd not mention it since he was asking about batteries for a 20 watt radio. The current draw of a 20 watt radio won't exceed the battery output of a 10 amp hour battery. I would not recommend trying to transmit on a 50 watt radio on high power. You will be at or above the 10 amps of the battery as most 50 watt radios draw 12-14 amps on transmit at high power. Some will draw 8 or 10 amps but why push one's luck. I will recommend a 40 or 50 amp hour battery for a 50 watt radio if you want it to last very long. The more one transmits the quicker the battery will discharge. People that do Parks On The Air with QRP radios with 5-10 watts output power will run smaller batteries but those don't last very long even then.

Send me a email wrmz361@gmail.com