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The BTech uses DCS and my Tidradio uses CTCSS and DCS

The only thing those CPR's used for marketing was Amazon and the video guy

There were several names used by the real radio manufacturers for their CTCSS marketing names. PL for Motorola Private Line; CG for General Electric/ Ericsson/Tyco/Harris Channel Guard; QC for RCA Quiet Channel; CG for EF Johnson Call Guard; and QT for Kenwood Quiet Talk. For the DCS Digital Coded Squelch names used by real radio manufacturers, there are DPL for Motorola Digial Private Line; General Electric/ Ericsson/Tyco/Harris just went with DCS; RCA stayed with QC; EF Johnson also stayed with their old CG name;and Kenwood uses DQT Digital Quiet Talk. I don't believe that the CPRs (Cheap Pandaland Radio) manufacturers used any marketing names for CTCSS/DCS.

I don't know why it's so hard to teach people to do that. It drives me nuts. I tell them, "Push the button, THEN talk. Think of it like the second or so it takes your phone to dial a number. You're essentially doing the same thing." They smile and nod, then continue to start blowing from their pie-hole before they push the button.

That would be idea for my openspot 4 pro !

I saw a lot of discussion on challenges loading airband channels and I thought I'd mention that there's some pre-programmed related frequencies in CHIRP. Go to File > Open Stock Config > US Aviation Frequencies.csv. Not sure if that helps anyone but thought I'd mention. They also have GMRS/FRS, Marine, etc. under there.

I have a few small gripes with this radio but, for the money, I think the AR-5RM is simply awesome. Dislike the red font on menu settings - hard to see. No memory banks for 999 channels? Oh well. I have my ham and gmrs license and have friends using both. Being able to use either in the same radio is super key to me; I used to seek out older Baofengs for this reason. That capability alone (and being tri-band) has earned it a place in my emergency bag (GHB,BOB), as well as my "shack", for sure. Thrilled with it over all.

Just a suggestion, instead of wasting money and time buying substandard coax and finding out it's not making you happy, just buy some 1/2" Heliax and save money and time. UHF isn't forgiving when it comes to feedline.

Just a suggestion, instead of wasting money and time buying substandard coax and finding out it's not making you happy, just buy some 1/2" Heliax and save money and time. UHF isn't forgiving when it comes to feedline.

Two very important tips to always remember.

I'm glad to hear that you redid the connections and that improved things for you. While ABR makes excellent coax cables, their ABR240-UF is pretty much the same as RG-213. Line Loss per 100 Feet RG-213 - 5.28dB, 70% loss LMR240 (same as ABR240) - 5.40dB, 72% loss LMR400 - 2.87dB, 48% loss RG-58 - 9.16dB, 88% loss Again, The calculations were made using 50 watts in and an SWR of 1.5. I used the https://kv5r.com/ham-radio/coax-loss-calculator/ to get those numbers. Your numbers will be different depending on the actual gain of your antenna. Higher loss cable will actually show a lower SWR due to loss. Go with the best that you can afford along with the acceptable losses for your needs. I would go with the DX Engineering 400MAX or R&L Electronics Jetstream 400Flex before going with RG-213/ABR240/LMR240. ABR coax is good stuff and I use their cables for all of my portable/POTA setups. Check out the coax loss calculator I linked. It is very helpful.

Tell this to the other person: Press the button... THEN talk.... This fixes the problem 99.998% of the time.. The other 0.002% the problem is because the person did not listen to what you told them to do.

40YEARS!!!! Orrrr…. you could just turn off that function. I guarantee you it’s horrible annoying for every one else. It’s like a backwards roger beep. Plus a call sign at every transmission. I’d just turn off the radio if I had to hear that. 40 YEARS!!!!!

I just got my RepeaterID for the RT97L and they even emailed me the file I sent them for the announcement for free. https://www.repeaterid.com/store/p16/RepeaterID_RT97L.html# I got it in 3 days and very easy to use. It works great!

My TYT DMR radio has a function that you have to key it and wait till it chirps a bit before you talk and I often mess up talking too soon! Darn new technology! I’ve been using radios for over 40 years so trying to learn a new way kinda sucks. My cure is to use my call sign first calling the other person. Better I mess up my call sign than missing who I’m calling…

UPDATE ! I decided to redo the connections I pre iously made,this time making sure to crimp the collars as best as I could,and taking care to fill the pin with as much solder as possible. While a continuity check yielded the same .002 my SWR has now dropped to 1.43. Not perfect but for this RG 58 I don't think it will get any better. I am looking as some custom cables fromABR industries. Their ABR 240-UF. I do appreciate everyone's input and help.

I'll give you TWO tips! always back-up your channel set before doing a factory reset dont run with scissors

Had to do a factory reset now the channel set under settings is gone. Any tips?

Nahh get that antenna outside above the roofline and you’ll still gain ALOT of performance no matter what your topography is !!

Here's my experience with the subject. I'm a fan of DCS for all the reasons listed above. However, I have found that some radios take a slightly longer time to open with DCS than CTCSS. Not a problem for us "radio people", but I have a group of radios that I use with a local theater. Sometimes the users push and talk at the same time and the first syllable would be missed using DCS. I reprogrammed the radios for CTCSS and that solved the problem. Again, this might be a brand/model specific issue but something to take into consideration.

Man I feel like the tdh3 IS a nice radio that would hang with radios 4x its price if the transmitter section wouldn’t crap the bed. Everything about the tdh3 is freaking awesome. But what’s the point of having a fully featured radio if this POS doesn’t transmit.

As mentioned, nothing will protect against a direct lightning strike. That being said, it is till a good idea to have lightning protection for the near strikes. Plus lightning arrestors will also help prevent damage from static electricity buildup on antennas when everything is properly grounded per NEC codes.

And the typical lightning strike is 30,000 amps. And the recommended wire gauge is #8. That should last a few milliseconds.

Also, if you go to Makers World you find a 3D cradle file for practically every radio free for downloading. True that not everyone owns a 3D printer but as cheap as they are now days, they should.

back in early 80's a Microwave site i maintained at Bird Springs took a direct hit on the overhead power power transformer. This site was well fortified with grounding.. Six charcoal/salt canisters and a ground web tied to each one.. The hit took pretty much everything in the block building and did some pretty good damage to the power panel. I remember walking into the building, it smelled like an electronic frying pan. The grounding system served zero purpose and won't on direct hits.